OIL RECOMMENDATION IVE NARROWED IT DOWN!

[fausTVR]

Some may wince at this idea, but what about jacking up the motor a tad to stretch the mounts to get enough clearance. I'd heard that the 5ltr needs a shorter filter but I'm not sure why the difference?

[SILICONEKID343HP]

After finding most fully synthetic oils only have at most 880ppm of Zinc I added some of this ,it works out at 2000ppm in five litres of oil so with the 880ppm it works out spot on

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-ZddPlus-ZDDP-Engine-Oi...

[blitzracing]

ChimpOnGas said:

Penrite HPR15 fully synthetic 15W-60 every time.





Buy it here:

http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Produ...

It's the perfect viscosity, is very high quality, contains the right levels of zinc, and just compare the price with any other fully synthetic.

You'll not find a more suitable oil for the RV8 at any price, but at £30.95 the fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 from "Classic Oils" is a no-brainer.




Oh and stick one of these on too:





http://www.v8filters.co.uk/




And I also have one of these clinging firmly to it:





http://www.shopfiltermag.com/






Finally, ditch the Range Rover sump plug & leaky copper crush washer, & replace with one of these:



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAVID-BROWN-TRACTOR-SUMP...




Its the belt & braces perfect oil change package.

• The replacement round edged sump plug wont get caught on a sleeping policeman & unwind itself, and you'll never have to buy another leaky crushable copper sump plug washer again

• The FilterMag is reusable so once you've bought it it'll last a lifetime

• The V8 filter is a Cummins Fleetguard and uses fibreglass media technology, which is well proven in the punishing diesel commercial truck world to offer far superior filtration than a traditional paper filter element, and it's only really a few quid more

• Penrite oils are absolutely first rate quality, and at this price you can have the best at average quality mineral oil prices

Best in class engine protection that needn't break the bank

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Thursday 14th November 10:01

Cant find a trace of V8filters any more (even the web site owner) - or the Fleetguard equivalent glassfibre filter..... . Probably back to the K&N version of the ERR3340 then.

[jojackson4]

blitzracing said:

ChimpOnGas said:

Penrite HPR15 fully synthetic 15W-60 every time.





Buy it here:

http://classicoils.absolutewebhosting2.co.uk/Produ...

It's the perfect viscosity, is very high quality, contains the right levels of zinc, and just compare the price with any other fully synthetic.

You'll not find a more suitable oil for the RV8 at any price, but at £30.95 the fully synthetic Penrite HPR15 from "Classic Oils" is a no-brainer.




Oh and stick one of these on too:





http://www.v8filters.co.uk/




And I also have one of these clinging firmly to it:





http://www.shopfiltermag.com/






Finally, ditch the Range Rover sump plug & leaky copper crush washer, & replace with one of these:



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAVID-BROWN-TRACTOR-SUMP...




Its the belt & braces perfect oil change package.

• The replacement round edged sump plug wont get caught on a sleeping policeman & unwind itself, and you'll never have to buy another leaky crushable copper sump plug washer again

• The FilterMag is reusable so once you've bought it it'll last a lifetime

• The V8 filter is a Cummins Fleetguard and uses fibreglass media technology, which is well proven in the punishing diesel commercial truck world to offer far superior filtration than a traditional paper filter element, and it's only really a few quid more

• Penrite oils are absolutely first rate quality, and at this price you can have the best at average quality mineral oil prices

Best in class engine protection that needn't break the bank

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Thursday 14th November 10:01

Cant find a trace of V8filters any more (even the web site owner) - or the Fleetguard equivalent glassfibre filter..... . Probably back to the K&N version of the ERR3340 then.

I have one
And it don't fit mine you can have it

[blitzracing]

Thats an offer I can refuse. Give me a week or two- Im going to make up the magnetic sump plugs, so I do you one as a swap.

[jojackson4]

Thanks mark
I have done one already and is in the sump ready
All I nead is a filter

[carsy]

blitzracing said:

Cant find a trace of V8filters any more (even the web site owner) - or the Fleetguard equivalent glassfibre filter..... . Probably back to the K&N version of the ERR3340 then.

Strange. I bought one only a couple of weeks ago from his website that Dave linked to. £15 delivered next day. I have his business card somewhere. I will find it and post his tel no. up for anyone interested.

[ChimpOnGas]

carsy said:

blitzracing said:

Cant find a trace of V8filters any more (even the web site owner) - or the Fleetguard equivalent glassfibre filter..... . Probably back to the K&N version of the ERR3340 then.

You can always email David Brown of V8 Filters at:

[e-mail]

David has just moved house & it is the festive period, so you might need to cut him some slack on his response time.

V8 Filters is a one man band, so its not like he has a secretary to manage his inbox.

But David is a lovely honest guy to deal with, just mention me (Dave Byron) when you email him & I'm sure you'll be well looked after.

Merry Christmas to all my TVR mates both real & virtual.

Edited by ChimpOnGas on Sunday 22 December 21:42

[anonymous-user]

SILICONEKID343HP said:

After finding most fully synthetic oils only have at most 880ppm of Zinc I added some of this ,it works out at 2000ppm in five litres of oil so with the 880ppm it works out spot on

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-ZddPlus-ZDDP-Engine-Oi...

I'd check carefully before adding this. While several Mobile 1 variants and most modern off the shelf full synth oils are around 800-900, the specialist oils mentioned in this thread are often already around the 1200-1300 mark. E.g. Mobile 1 15W-50, Millers CFS, Valvoline VR1 and Fuchs Titan. Above 1400 is for full race engines only, and in a road car is likely to do more harm than good long term.

[ChimpOnGas]

dod said:

SILICONEKID343HP said:

After finding most fully synthetic oils only have at most 880ppm of Zinc I added some of this ,it works out at 2000ppm in five litres of oil so with the 880ppm it works out spot on

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-ZddPlus-ZDDP-Engine-Oi...

I'd check carefully before adding this. While several Mobile 1 variants and most modern off the shelf full synth oils are around 800-900, the specialist oils mentioned in this thread are often already around the 1200-1300 mark. E.g. Mobile 1 15W-50, Millers CFS, Valvoline VR1 and Fuchs Titan. Above 1400 is for full race engines only, and in a road car is likely to do more harm than good long term.

I've already told him that (about 100 times)

If you use the Penrite HPR15 all there additives are in there already, and put there by the experts.

Not added by a self dosing amateur petrochemist with a bottle of ZDD Plus in his hand.

The HPR15 is a very well priced high quality fully synth oil that's absolutely perfect for the RV8, why pay more trying to cook up your own brew?

Just buy the Penrite in the first place & its job done

[SILICONEKID346HP]

ChimpOnGas said:

I've already told him that (about 100 times)

If you use the Penrite HPR15 all there additives are in there already, and put there by the experts.

Not added by a self dosing amateur petrochemist with a bottle of ZDD Plus in his hand.

The HPR15 is a very well priced high quality fully synth oil that's absolutely perfect for the RV8, why pay more trying to cook up your own brew?

Just buy the Penrite in the first place & its job done

Are you saying The ZZP stuff is a waste of money or will damage my engine ? Don`t fancy draining and doing another oil change .
How much did you pay for Penrite ?

http://www.vintageandsportscarservices.co.uk/penri...

Edited by SILICONEKID346HP on Sunday 22 December 22:46

[ChimpOnGas]

SILICONEKID346HP said:

ChimpOnGas said:

I've already told him that (about 100 times)

If you use the Penrite HPR15 all there additives are in there already, and put there by the experts.

Not added by a self dosing amateur petrochemist with a bottle of ZDD Plus in his hand.

The HPR15 is a very well priced high quality fully synth oil that's absolutely perfect for the RV8, why pay more trying to cook up your own brew?

Just buy the Penrite in the first place & its job done

Are you saying The ZZP stuff is a waste of money or will damage my engine ? Don`t fancy draining and doing another oil change .

Yes it is a waste of money, just use the right oil in the first place.

But dont worry you wont do it any harm mate, just change it all out for the Penrite at your next change and you'll be fine.

[anonymous-user]

SILICONEKID346HP said:

Are you saying The ZZP stuff is a waste of money or will damage my engine ? Don`t fancy draining and doing another oil change .

Don't think a single oil change cycle will make much difference, as these things are normally measured over thousands of KMs, but as said, would just choose a "good quality" (i.e. more important than the amount of zinc) full or semi-synth that does already contain around 1200ppm; and change it regularly.

SAE Test Engineer comment found elsewhere said:

Don't believe the old Folklore and Wive's Tales about needing a lot of zinc in your motor oil. That is just misinformation plastered all over the Internet in general, and on Forums in particular. But, there is absolutely no PROOF to back-up that nonsense.

“THE” single most common misunderstanding about motor oil is that higher zinc levels provide better wear protection. That has been repeated over and over again so many times over the years, that people just assume it is correct. But the fact is, that thinking is COMPLETELY FALSE.

Zinc is used/sacrificed in very small quantities at time, so the total amount present in your oil does not change how much wear protection the oil provides, as long as you don't run out of zinc. “Lab Testing” and “Wear Testing” analysis proves/confirms that more zinc provides LONGER wear protection, NOT MORE wear protection.

An analogy for the zinc level in motor oil would be the amount of gas in your tank. Gas is also used in very small quantities at a time. So, if you have a quarter of a tank or a full tank, it does NOT change how much power your engine makes, as long as you don't run out of gas. More gas provides LONGER running time, NOT more power. It’s the same type of idea regarding the amount of zinc in motor oil.

Zinc is used as an extreme pressure, anti-wear additive. But, zinc “DOES NOT” build-up over time like some type of plating process. For those who have actually taken an engine apart that has been running high zinc oil, you know that you don’t find a build-up of zinc that looks like some sort of coating or sludge build-up. Zinc does NOT work that way. And zinc is not even a lubricant until heat and load are applied. Zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. At that point zinc must react with the heat and load to create the sacrificial film that allows it to protect flat-tappet camshafts and other highly loaded engine parts.

So, with zinc being sacrificial, it will become depleted over time as it is used up. This has been proven/confirmed by analysis of new and used oil lab test results. On top of that, earlier oil industry testing has found that above 1,400 ppm, ZDDP INCREASED long term wear, even though break-in wear was reduced. And it was also found that 2,000 ppm ZDDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling. There is such a thing as "too much of a good thing".

So, you really don’t want or need a ton of zinc. You simply need “enough” so that you don’t run out of it with your particular application, that’s all. And this is precisely the reason why the motor oil “wear testing” I’ve been performing, has ALWAYS shown that the level of zinc does NOT affect how well an oil can provide wear protection. I’ve had many HIGH zinc oils, as well as many modern LOW zinc oils, produce outstanding results in the wear testing. I’ve also had HIGH zinc oils as well as LOW zinc oils that produced only modest results in the wear testing.

And this brings us to the second most common misunderstanding about motor oil, which is that modern API certified motor oils cannot provide adequate wear protection for flat tappet cam lobe/lifter interfaces. This has also been repeated over and over again so many times over the years, that people just assume it is correct. But the fact is, that thinking is also COMPLETELY FALSE.

Wear protection is determined only by the base oil and its additive package “as a whole”, and NOT just by how much zinc is present. There is nothing magical or sacred about zinc. It is just one of a number of motor oil additive package components that can be used for extreme pressure anti-wear purposes. The other components that are typically Oil Company proprietary secrets, can be added to, or used in place of zinc. And most modern API SM and SN certified oils have shown in my wear testing to be quite good when it comes to providing wear protection, and have even EXCEEDED the protection provided by many high zinc oils.

[SILICONEKID346HP]

Thanks Dave ,next time I`m going to for the Pentrite stuff .

[blitzracing]

Ive just swapped to the Penright HPR from a Comma 15-40 semi, and its now running at 37 psi as low as 2000 rpm at 80'0c (this is up about 10 PSI). Im not sure how accurate my gauge is, but Im a happy man whatever.

[ChimpOnGas]

blitzracing said:

Ive just swapped to the Penright HPR from a Comma 15-40 semi, and its now running at 37 psi as low as 2000 rpm at 80'0c (this is up about 10 PSI). Im not sure how accurate my gauge is, but Im a happy man whatever.