Seat foams - where to buy?

[Adrian@]

The same method used on a TVR S2


And again on my TVR S3 2.8 DH (SEAC interior)

A@

[lancepar]

When I recovered some seats a while ago I used zip ties instead of the original hog rings and would use em again.
It's a commonly used alternative.

[Adrian@]

I have pinched a Geeman237 picture to show as to what I am replacing with tyraps, (if they have rotted away) which you need leave them in place (cropped down so as the tyrap does not migrate along the support wire)....I tried to find these steel hooks, back when, to supply to trimmers that were using my foams, BUT, I could never find any and as there is an association with how the seat gets pulled down, to give the cover 'shape', tyraps were a simple solution.


A@

[ed_crouch]

Hi all, Im a long time lurker and former Wedge owner. It appears (YESSSSS!!!) that I will be once more laying spanners on a Tiv, this time a Chimaera.

One thing that occurred to me was that its not hard to obtain pourable PU foam in flexible grades suitable for seat cushions. I'm also pretty handy with a few crafts, namely leather craft (I made the hand tooled leather belt I'm wearing from scratch) and woodwork (I have made a number of pieces of furniture for our house).

So if I made a wooden buck of the seat cushion required, took a GRP mould off it and poured the PU to make a seat cushion, that would work pretty well? Isocyanate fumes would of course be a concern and I know not of a respirator filter than will remove them (ABEK won't), but still.

Has anyone done this already?

Ed.

[Adrian@]

Ed,
I have made foam seat/head rest mouldings for TVR's up to'76 through to '91 for years which have sold out to trimmers ...I have taken AND other people/traders have sent me foams to create moulds from (and sent them back) BUT, you need to find a good original pattern (from a late passenger seat). Early Griff/Chim seats have 5mm scrim and extensions to an earlier foam to get the shape right (these are the seats requiring new foams as they are the ones falling apart) . The later cars have the foams created in a very stable one piece moulding, chopped into two pieces to allow pull-down of the inner supports, (which gets damaged by the wire seat base) which any good trimmer will replace the centre (see the previous geeman237 pictures of the loose centre) adhere back together and support the base with calico and replace the wire base (with weld-mesh! see my pictures). IMHO a mould needs to be VERY strong, (shore rating is dictated by the mix/compression of the foam when pored) up sized, as foam shrinks and as it is a car part of the correct fire rating foam...for most DIY people, buying it in as a block and using a electric knife will do the job.
I have just taken V8S (late 400 wedge are the same) and S Series seats apart (I already have this foam base mould anyway but needed to double check) and created moulds but I will not progress any further unless there is a actual need to (no market). A@

PS look at the Geeman237 pictures and you will see the only piece damaged by the OE wire frame is the loose centre

[blaze_away]

Adrian@ said:

The same method used on a TVR S2


And again on my TVR S3 2.8 DH (SEAC interior)

A@

Just been mulling this over and I like the idea of using that mesh idea.

I have some Stainless 12mm holes with 1.5mm wire, is that maybe a bit over specified do you think ?

[Classic Chim]

Hard to say. It looks thinner material than the ones shown above that look very solid and strong looking, rather to solid in-fact, maybe your mesh might offer a bit of give in a good way