Speeduino install update.

[drcarlos]

I like the install of the coilpacks there. I had to move mine late last year to re-instate the drivers footwell heater hose as they were installed behind the plenum and blocked it's install (this resulted in frozen feet and the inability to drive in cold weather). I ended up picking up on a couple of much smaller bolts on the inlet manifold and making a couple of spacers so they are flat on top of the rocker. They don't feel that stable so either need a 3rd mount or a larger pair like the bolts on the plenum you've used, another job on the list.
The install as a whole I feel is great and a major contributor into the fact I can just get in, drive my car most of the time and it just seems to work (there seems to be so issues with distributers, coils and amplifiers on other car and getting rid of that lot for this kit just removes a multitude of failure points). It will probably breakdown on the way home tonight now

[Fenderer]

drcarlos said:

I like the install of the coilpacks there. I had to move mine late last year to re-instate the drivers footwell heater hose as they were installed behind the plenum and blocked it's install (this resulted in frozen feet and the inability to drive in cold weather). I ended up picking up on a couple of much smaller bolts on the inlet manifold and making a couple of spacers so they are flat on top of the rocker. They don't feel that stable so either need a 3rd mount or a larger pair like the bolts on the plenum you've used, another job on the list.
The install as a whole I feel is great and a major contributor into the fact I can just get in, drive my car most of the time and it just seems to work (there seems to be so issues with distributers, coils and amplifiers on other car and getting rid of that lot for this kit just removes a multitude of failure points). It will probably breakdown on the way home tonight now

Thanks, it's reassuring to hear your car is better to drive now. That's my aim really with this whole install. I just want it to work so I can enjoy driving it. I had nothing but persistent problems with the whole OE setup.

Yes I found that too that you really need a third support as the VW coil packs are surprisingly heavy. I've got 2 supports at the top to the existing plenum bolts and another bolt to the inlet manifold.

This photo shows it more clearly. I also later welded some long bolts directly to the plate so the coilpacks can be changed with ease if necessary.

[drcarlos]

Fenderer said:

drcarlos said:

I like the install of the coilpacks there. I had to move mine late last year to re-instate the drivers footwell heater hose as they were installed behind the plenum and blocked it's install (this resulted in frozen feet and the inability to drive in cold weather). I ended up picking up on a couple of much smaller bolts on the inlet manifold and making a couple of spacers so they are flat on top of the rocker. They don't feel that stable so either need a 3rd mount or a larger pair like the bolts on the plenum you've used, another job on the list.
The install as a whole I feel is great and a major contributor into the fact I can just get in, drive my car most of the time and it just seems to work (there seems to be so issues with distributers, coils and amplifiers on other car and getting rid of that lot for this kit just removes a multitude of failure points). It will probably breakdown on the way home tonight now

Thanks, it's reassuring to hear your car is better to drive now. That's my aim really with this whole install. I just want it to work so I can enjoy driving it. I had nothing but persistent problems with the whole OE setup.

Yes I found that too that you really need a third support as the VW coil packs are surprisingly heavy. I've got 2 supports at the top to the existing plenum bolts and another bolt to the inlet manifold.

This photo shows it more clearly. I also later welded some long bolts directly to the plate so the coilpacks can be changed with ease if necessary.

Mine currently picks up on the 2 lower bolts you've used and there is a bit of vibration, too much for my liking but it was cold when I did it (that's my excuse and i'm sticking to it!) and I was modding an already made mounting plate. Assuming my loom is long enough (and it's tight at the moment) I think i'll rotate them to follow a similar design to you as it much better than using the shallow thread on top of the rocker that the plug wire clip screws into that I was also thing of doing.
I made the nuts on the reverse of the plate captive so like you I could remove the coils easily (I also marked the outputs with the cylinder numbers with dymo labels). I think maybe a job for Sunday.

[Fenderer]

Polly Grigora said:

Is there much vibration on the mounting plate?

I don't know yet as I haven't actually started the car, still working on the wiring which seems to be endless but nearly there.

[ric355]

Fenderer said:

I don't know yet as I haven't actually started the car, still working on the wiring which seems to be endless but nearly there.

Don't worry about it. The P38 OEM coil packs are mounted on the back of the plenum/head.

[Fenderer]

OK hit a bit of a snag.

All the wiring is done but I just did a quick sanity check with the multimeter across the terminals before connecting the battery and I have a short when the ignition is switched on.

So ignition off > open circuit - all good.
Switch ignition on > positive shorted to ground.

I've traced the short to something on the ignition circuit going to Fuse 21. If I remove Fuse 21 (battery feed to ignition) the short disappears so it must be something on this circuit. If I remove any of the other fuses, the short is still there.

I've taken all the relays out and removed all the ECU, injector, coil pack circuits and still it's there.

Any ideas?

[Belle427]

You say it’s a short but does it actually blow fuse 21?

[Fenderer]

Belle427 said:

You say it’s a short but does it actually blow fuse 21?

This is a good question.. The chances are it won't because although the multimeter is showing it as a short the true resistance/load is around 2 ohms. This would supply a current of 6Amps through the fuse, so unlikely to blow the 20A fuse but what on earth could be taking 6A just by switching the ignition on? None of the circuits relating to the Speeduino are now connected as I took all the fuses but still have that same indicated load so to me that still indicates a short

As far as I can tell Fuse 21 just supplies the ignition switch and 2 fuses 8 and 12 from that. But if I remove both those fuses then the load is the same.

I really don't want to connect it to a battery like this as there's a very good chance something will melt.

[Belle427]

Which circuit are your coils connected to?

[Fenderer]

Coil packs are disconnected. I've disconnected everything Speeduino related while I test, but still getting the short which is really baffling.

[geordiepingu]

Check your relay wiring for the ECU and Fuel Injection circuits, it's likely you have made an error there. Pay attention to the direction of current in the relay operation, it's not quite the same as the common recommended Speeduino or Megasquirt installation.

[Fenderer]

Thanks for the replies. Just to say all relays and fuses to the Speeduino circuits are disconnected and the short is still there.
But as Polly has said it may not be a short at all. If there is a genuine short it would literally have to be downstream of Fuse 21 and upstream of my new fuse box which supplies the Speeduino and all associated circuits, (coil packs/ injectors etc.)


I'm going to try connecting the battery with a 20amp safety fuse on the negative cable and see if it blows... Will report back.

[Fenderer]

Quick update on the Speeduino install.

I sorted the short, but to be honest I've no idea what caused it. I think I must have chased myself around in circles as it miraculously disappeared and hasn't reappeared.

Anyway the good news is It's Alive! I had a real battle getting the Speeduino timing synced with TDC but after some crude measuring of the angle and trial and error found the right angle as -72 deg. Also had a bit of a mare getting the fuel pump to prime which was a dodgy fuse connector.

It now starts and runs but, idle speed is way too low. The fans are working fine, controlled by the ECU (bye nasty Otter Switch) and the coolant gauge is spot on with the readout in Tuner Studio. Map Sensor is working fine. Currently idles at 27kPA.

A few gremlins still to sort. My Tachometer adapter circuit isn't working but doing an awful lot of clicking for some reason.

So it's on to getting it running smoothly. First some petrol as I'm about to run out!

Really pleased so far. Thanks for all the help so far!

[Steve_D]

Fenderer said:

..............I'm going to try connecting the battery with a 20amp safety fuse on the negative cable and see if it blows... Will report back.

I think you are confusing yourself. You are worried that you have found a resistance when you turn the ignition on. Something has to happen when you turn the ignition on or there would be no point having the switch.
The resistance you were seeing was, ignition load relay, central locking, immobiliser, Alarm, ignition coil, Interior light, ECU, Fuel pump relay and perhaps a few more I have missed but a few less you may have changed on your car.

Steve

[Fenderer]

It was the lack of the resistance that was confusing me, basically a short, but yeah it's sorted either way and the car is running now which is massive progress. Thanks Steve for the help with wiring diagrams they've been a constant source of reference through this.

[Belle427]

Not sure if your using a dial back type timing light to check things but this is something not recommended on these systems.
Is it the same as MS2 where you set to fixed timing in Tunerstudio, check and then adjust the offset angle?

[Fenderer]

Yeah I was using a dial back and then I realised it was just confusing the issue further so just set it on zero.

It's just the same setup as MS2. Lock the timing at 10deg before TDC in Tuner Studio and then adjust the trigger angle until you get a sync on the 10 deg mark on the pulley. As I found though you need a rough idea first of what the angle is or you'll never pick up the mark on the strobe. Finally found it and it synced up nicely.

[Fenderer]

Polly Grigora said:

Surely it is the relay coil that's altering the pulse and the relay armature should be removed to stop the relay from chattering

Or

Am I missing something?

It's all about inductance produced by the relay coil isn't it?

That was what I thought too. I might have wired it wrong across the contacts or something...Will pull it out and check again.

[Fenderer]

I'm getting into some basic idle tuning now with mixed success.

I've got it starting reasonably well and idling with a good AFR but if you blip the throttle it leans out horribly and the engine just wants to stall. It's like it's taking a massive gulp of air but not getting the fuel to match.

I think this is down to a lack of Acceleration Enrichment but I'm not confident I have the right settings.

I'm set up for MAP tuning but have set this on TPS controlled enrichment as I thought this might give the most rapid response to blipping the throttle.

Would the aftermarket ECU folks be able to share their settings? Pictures of what I have for this and the fuel table below.

[Belle427]

I can check my old cars file later but are you happy the tps is calibrated and the settings such as required fuel are all correct?
Did you generate the ve table or is it a base map provided by someone?