Another body off thread.

[Classic Chim]

Zener said:

Quality job Alun

The paint seems to have done the job nicely Simon. I will wait until you have inspected it before I get above myself but yes it’s sound enough.
The acid test will be say 5 years after this has been completed and plenty of miles under the belt to know just how good this paint is. Infact based on how new powder coated front wishbones peeled and rusted in about 3 years I won’t have that long to find out.
It’s the edges Powdercoat fails on usually so I’m hoping my striking all these edges ( took ages) with the paint before the two coats of sprayed on epoxy mastic should last considerably longer. Only time will tell but I’m quietly confident.

[Classic Chim]

Spunagain said:

Hi Alun
Sorry for the daft question, but when you say striking do you mean painting extra layers on the sharp edges or filing the edges off?
Cheers!

I had my chassis shot blasted so all edges bare steel.
No it’s not a daft question and I’d never heard of the term striking the steel but yes in essence it’s just painting all the edges and sharpe points before spraying which I’ve done in the past. Sort of locks in those painted edges and gives a nice surface for the spray paint to adhere too.
I was looking at a large garden gate that had been powder coated. It’s very clear heat and I suppose sunlight has reduced that powder coat to a very brittle substance with rust showing through it. It’s less than 4 years old so not a slant on powdercoat as such but open to elements and extreme heat it seems to breakdown rather to fast. Looking at the science these mastic paints should be perfect for our chassis type.

[Classic Chim]

Yes absolutely. I noticed the PD wishbones had degraded on edges ( mostly from spanner damage changing shocks most likely ) so lightly rubbed them down and used white Hammerite but less than a year later rust Was forming again. I did use the car though winter including salted roads but I’d have expected better than that from both the paint and the powdercoat.

[Classic Chim]

I brushed painted down into those nooks and crannies on my wishbones to give the spray paint chance to grip or you will have the issue Steve raises.

[Classic Chim]

Question.
Are rear upper wishbones handed?
Thanks in advance

[Classic Chim]

I love studying pictures like these lol.

I’ve just been calculating the cost of this body offf calling in every favour I could, scraping the barrel for funds and paying for pro’s where I could.
Including my labour which is probably double the time it takes an experienced chap but basically it’s cost 3 k to do the job including garage rental etc and about 3k labour if I was paying myself so in total about 6 k. That’s very interesting as I don’t think that’s far off a pro’s quote to do such a large amount of work.
My labour is free so to get this down to about 2.5 k for most of the work is very pleasing. Oils and fluids and gaskets and brake lines and cables, track rod gators to a million new cable ties to gasket sealer to feck knows what yet but that lot gets on for 500 quid anyday but I consider those service items which I’d be doing at some time anyway.
So 2.5 k seems a bargain now it’s starting to take shape.
Considering I’ve never done this before although I’ve worked on most of the car in the past it’s been a steep learning curve which has totally removed a lot of myth I had over these chassis and body lift operations.
Steve sharing how to use a two post lift and axle stands to separate body from chassis must be the best tip I’ve had in years and removed a huge amount of stress. Any advice we recieve as laymen goes a long way to helping someone like me succeed so I can only offer my humblest thanks for all our Tvr friends.

[Classic Chim]

GOODIES Very nicely labelled chassis bolt kit. Impressed by the care taken here.
Spot on and promptly delivered.

[Classic Chim]

As I’m now nearing the time I can go back and finish my car off I’ve slowly been buying the necessary stuff to recommission the car.

So far my plan was to lift body/ repair riggers, drop body, but decided to do the full job and re coat the complete chassis instead. This then opened me upto all the little things you’d ideally change while you are there sort of thing.

I’ve avoided doing wishbone bushes etc as I think the 4 corners can be worked on at any time in future so ball joints etc are all fairly new but left most of these components for now.
My idea is to restore the chassis and anything else that’s related to it rather than a complete nut and bolt job.
I did that 5 years ago on the front end with new bolt kits etc, most showed more rust than TVR BOLTS 20 years old so where I can I’m reusing things that simply do not require replacement.

Anyway to the present.
I now have oils/ filter incl fuel filter and liquids for all various systems including 2 gallon of de ionised water and 6 litres of antifreeze.
Engine, gearbox, dif, P/S brake / clutch fluid.

I’ve have replaced brake and fuel lines on Chassis.

So once I have finished off some jobs on chassis and body which will mean lifting body off again then get back to where I am now which is the body remounted to chassis and ready to re route wiring plug everything in this is the list I need to complete said task.

If I have missed anything feel free to mention it.

I have heater hose x about 5m ( as I wish to replace it back to heater matrix )
High pressure P/S hose kit
Low pressure P/S hose
R9 Fuel hose for both front and rear end of car and the larger bore hose from tank to Pump. All with new clips.
Brake cable
Steering rack gators
A million cable ties at hand
Exhaust manifold gaskets x4
Blue gasket sealant.
Thermostat and gasket
Including for engine bay heat matting I have 3 tubes of mastic/ silkoflex
Rivets
More locktite.
Chassis bolt kit including seat belt anchor bolts.
Gold insulation tape
I have braided brake lines allround so don’t need those.
Grease for prop shaft etc.
Silicone spray
Is that it!
Thanks for any pointers as I’d like to know I have most things before I hit the garage cheers in advance Alun

Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 25th September 16:09

[Classic Chim]

QBee said:

Are you replacing the power steering U bend close to the front nearside of the engine block?
Chimaera parts do a kit that doesn't leak, unlike the standard TVR one that comes with built in leak.
If, being Welsh, you prefer leaks with everything, we will understand.

I prefer leeks.

But mine doesn’t leak?
It might be a good idea to get some new hose for that section though.
Yes agreed but I’m trying not to over spend but yeah you bugger you got me there. Very impressed you remembered that little detail.
Oh hang on that’s the high pressure side isn’t it,, it’s going to be expensive I just know it

[Classic Chim]

To late I’ve ordered it.
It makes sense
In for a penny in for a pound.

[Classic Chim]

Riff Raff said:

I'm sure I've posted this before, but the bloke that runs Chimaera Parts online told me that the hoses used by TVR degrade internally over time and deposit bits of rubber all over the place, but especially in the rack. He advised me to not only change the hoses but to flush the system through with clean fluid at the same time. Which I did. Given the relative scarcity of racks, anything that prolongs their life has to be a good thing in my book.

I had a fairly spectacular leak from the U shaped pipework under the pump that was dripping PAS fluid on to the manifold. The Chimaera Parts kit is leak free a couple of years after fitting. And looks far better than the mish mash of manky pipes and jubilee clips that TVR fitted.

I read that and it swayed it for me.
Reason being the new low pressure hose I put on only about 5 years ago or so when I removed and tucked it up on body off recently I noticed it had plenty of cracks on the outside. I’ve also noticed on occasion where I’ve done a lot of steering inputs and fluid gets hot it has a tendency to push back and out through the connections at the bottle, not a leak more a wetting over time, if fluid can get out moisture can get in let alone bits of rubber floating about so yes It’s hopefully a solution.
I also noticed how dis coloured the power steering fluid was when it came out, it was only about 8000 miles use at best! It’s another item to change far more regularly than a service schedule might suggest I feel. It gets very hot.

Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 25th September 16:18

[Classic Chim]

I think from my own experience I will not fill bottle quite so much. It does get very hot and expands I assume so I’ve had mine almost over flowing the cap in the past though it’s only full to the marks when cold.
I’m actually thinking it would be a good idea to have the fill bottle positioned on the inner wing rather than on top and centre of a very hot engine?
Maybe even an aluminium one polished up

[Classic Chim]

Steve_D said:

What brand of fuel hose have you bought?

Steve

Codan SAE J30 R9 FKM-NBR- CPE fuel hose 12.7 mm
Codan SAE J30 R9 FKM-NBR-CSM Fuel hose 7.9 mm

I have another length of R9 already at the car for front end but can’t remember the brand off hand.
Andy Matthews sent it me ages ago so it should be good stuff. The plan is to route my longer fuel lines so I have very little of the hose in engine Bay Area

Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 25th September 22:08

[Classic Chim]

It seems like so long ago.
Will I remember how to assemble it is now really the question!
I’m not tempting fate as things can change in a flash but hopefully the month of March will see some progress and nearer completion on this chassis project.

[Classic Chim]

The chance of a meet would seem like a nice thing so yeah I can’t wait.
I now watch in car footage of TVR on YouTube to remind me what my car was like

I feel rather nervous at the moment. I saved a lot of stuff to memory thinking it will only be a few months apart not over a year but I’ll work it out.

[Classic Chim]

TwinKam said:

...I share your anxiety, Alun... I took my engine out and stripped it in 2016, I can't even remember where half of it IS....

It’s horrendous torture. I kept looking at pictures but even then felt the confidence draining away until all my mind saw was a barn find 5 years on from now and a bargain some dick forgot about,
I now have multiple fears of rats nests and knackered components but I’ll try and stay positive

I find a chat with the odd Tvr friend really charges me and feels like back up so I’m more confident after that lol

Edited by Classic Chim on Monday 22 February 18:16

[Classic Chim]

TwinKam said:

...I share your anxiety, Alun... I took my engine out and stripped it in 2016, I can't even remember where half of it IS....

You really want to find time to get on with that

[Classic Chim]

The sun is shining and the weather is sweet. You could turn up in any number of fancy motors but this one will be the one that makes the marvellous Covid workers thrill.
Fantastic and thanks boys.
When I / we took it apart I had Frank supervising and making mental notes himself.
I will not risk anyone’s health so will put it together myself but just having Frank and any number of friends on the phone is a huge help and why Tvr are really great.
Not many use this site now but for me the only reason I could ever own a TVR was the collective knowledge and help I found on here. That and the friendships that develop

[Classic Chim]

QBee said:

Knock me down with a feather.
My 40-something female NHS COVID tester recognised it as a TVR and told me there was a guy just the other side of Mansfield with one.

In my experience an otherwise 40 year old lady wouldn”t have even noticed me so a bonus.
Good luck with the op Anthony.

[Classic Chim]

wuckfitracing said:

There`s a few of us the other side of Mansfield but it was probably just Daz.