LED Headlights
Discussion
GC8 said:
Am I correct in thinking that the later fanless type of bulbs don't have a voltage regulator? Has anyone actually fitted them successfully? For the sake of £20 Im thinking that I would be beter off buying the original type from DX.
You could be right, I'm concerned now these new ones will just flash. Did A900S do his test with the engine running or just with the ignition on?I ask this because the flashing problem is definitely voltage related as proved by what happened to me this weekend when I fitted LED Edison bulbs to a domestic pendant lamp in my house. Being new to LED household bulbs what I discovered was there are LED bulbs suitable for dimmer switches and ones that are not
So do check the box for the dimmable feature if you are switching to LED at home and you have dimmer switches.
It turns out dimmable household LED bulbs will work in any dimmable or non dimmable light circuit, but non dimmable LED bulbs will just flash if you have dimmer switches in your house and you try to turn them down.
When I fitted my first set of LED Edison household bulbs they were fine on full power, but as soon as you try to dim them down they flash like a strobe, a quick trip back to Tescos and I had them swapped for the dimmable version. Unlike a normal household bulb the adjustment is very sensitive around the very low range of the dimmer switch but essentially the replacement "dimmable" spec LED bulbs worked fine in the lamp with no flashing.
There's a whole lot of info on why non dimmable LED bulbs flash in a dimmer circuit here:
http://www.integral-led.com/education/dimmable-and...
What it seems to say is it's all down to the driver which in turn regulates the voltage, so the big question is do these new LED H4 bulbs have an internal driver or not and if they do what the voltage range set at?
All I know is my first ones from DX have an external driver box & work flawlessly so are currently the only proven option we have and represent the safest bet of all until the new type can be shown to work without flashing.
And for that we A900S to do some more testing as I won't be fitting mine until late May when my Mk3 headlight conversion is completed.
Given my experience with household bulbs I'd say the new LED H4s will work fine as long as they are receiving the full voltage they're designed to work at.
Perhaps A900S can do a couple of multimeter voltage checks to see what's present at his H4 connectors on his TVR loom, one test at idle & one with the engine off.
My guess is the flashing will disappear with the engine running and return when the engine is switched off, these new version LED H4s are probably set with a working range (at a guess 12v -14.5v).
As we know the TVR wiring and earthing is pretty pish poor, I wouldn't mind betting A900S finds there's only 11.3v - 11.8v at his H4 connectors without the engine running, which being below the LED units lower 12v setting means it starts to flash just like my non dimmable household Edison bulb did when I tried to dim it.
I look forward to hearing about those engine running & engine off voltage readings and if they stop flashing when the engine is running
Edited by ChimpOnGas on Monday 27th April 15:23
ChimpOnGas said:
You could be right, I'm concerned now these new ones will just flash. Did A900S do his test with the engine running or just with the ignition on?
I ask this because the flashing problem is definitely voltage related as proved by what happened to me this weekend when I fitted LED Edison bulbs to a domestic pendant lamp in my house. Being new to LED household bulbs what I discovered was there are LED bulbs suitable for dimmer switches and ones that are not
So do check the box for the dimmable feature if you are switching to LED at home and you have dimmer switches.
It turns out dimmable household LED bulbs will work in any dimmable or non dimmable light circuit, but non dimmable LED bulbs will just flash if you have dimmer switches in your house and you try to turn them down.
When I fitted my first set of LED Edison household bulbs they were fine on full power, but as soon as you try to dim them down they flash like a strobe, a quick trip back to Tescos and I had them swapped for the dimmable version. Unlike a normal household bulb the adjustment is very sensitive around the very low range of the dimmer switch but essentially the replacement "dimmable" spec LED bulbs worked fine in the lamp with no flashing.
There's a whole lot of info on why non dimmable LED bulbs flash in a dimmer circuit here:
http://www.integral-led.com/education/dimmable-and...
What it seems to say is it's all down to the driver which in turn regulates the voltage, so the big question is do these new LED H4 bulbs have an internal driver or not and if they do what the voltage range set at?
All I know is my first ones from DX have an external driver box & work flawlessly so are currently the only proven option we have and represent the safest bet of all until the new type can be shown to work without flashing.
And for that we A900S to do some more testing as I won't be fitting mine until late May when my Mk3 headlight conversion is completed.
Given my experience with household bulbs I'd say the new LED H4s will work fine as long as they are receiving the full voltage they're designed to work at.
Perhaps A900S can do a couple of multimeter voltage checks to see what's present at his H4 connectors on his TVR loom, one test at idle & one with the engine running.
My guess is the flashing will disappear with the engine running and return when the engine is switched off, these new version LED H4s are probably set with a working range (at a guess 12v -14.5v).
As we know the TVR wiring and earthing is pretty pish poor, I wouldn't mind betting A900S finds there's only 11.3v - 11.8v at his H4 connectors without the engine running, which being below the LED units lower 12v setting means it starts to flash just like my non dimmable household Edison bulb did when I tried to dim it.
I look forward to hearing about those engine running & engine off voltage readings and if they stop flashing when the engine is running
You will also find the 12volt M11 do not work with the original transformer ,they only work with drivers, another expense .A cheaper way is to remove the transformers ,re wire the 240volt in to GU10 connectors .All my LED`s were purchased from ebay from China ,not had one fail to date .I ask this because the flashing problem is definitely voltage related as proved by what happened to me this weekend when I fitted LED Edison bulbs to a domestic pendant lamp in my house. Being new to LED household bulbs what I discovered was there are LED bulbs suitable for dimmer switches and ones that are not
So do check the box for the dimmable feature if you are switching to LED at home and you have dimmer switches.
It turns out dimmable household LED bulbs will work in any dimmable or non dimmable light circuit, but non dimmable LED bulbs will just flash if you have dimmer switches in your house and you try to turn them down.
When I fitted my first set of LED Edison household bulbs they were fine on full power, but as soon as you try to dim them down they flash like a strobe, a quick trip back to Tescos and I had them swapped for the dimmable version. Unlike a normal household bulb the adjustment is very sensitive around the very low range of the dimmer switch but essentially the replacement "dimmable" spec LED bulbs worked fine in the lamp with no flashing.
There's a whole lot of info on why non dimmable LED bulbs flash in a dimmer circuit here:
http://www.integral-led.com/education/dimmable-and...
What it seems to say is it's all down to the driver which in turn regulates the voltage, so the big question is do these new LED H4 bulbs have an internal driver or not and if they do what the voltage range set at?
All I know is my first ones from DX have an external driver box & work flawlessly so are currently the only proven option we have and represent the safest bet of all until the new type can be shown to work without flashing.
And for that we A900S to do some more testing as I won't be fitting mine until late May when my Mk3 headlight conversion is completed.
Given my experience with household bulbs I'd say the new LED H4s will work fine as long as they are receiving the full voltage they're designed to work at.
Perhaps A900S can do a couple of multimeter voltage checks to see what's present at his H4 connectors on his TVR loom, one test at idle & one with the engine running.
My guess is the flashing will disappear with the engine running and return when the engine is switched off, these new version LED H4s are probably set with a working range (at a guess 12v -14.5v).
As we know the TVR wiring and earthing is pretty pish poor, I wouldn't mind betting A900S finds there's only 11.3v - 11.8v at his H4 connectors without the engine running, which being below the LED units lower 12v setting means it starts to flash just like my non dimmable household Edison bulb did when I tried to dim it.
I look forward to hearing about those engine running & engine off voltage readings and if they stop flashing when the engine is running
Transformers need more load to kick them in to action .I had the same problem so I left one halogen in ,they all worked fine .
Back to TVR`s I now have this fitted ,power from the starter motor . Its giving a constant voltage .
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Monday 27th April 14:31
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Monday 27th April 14:43
This is interesting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEJIHdR7BHs
Not sure if it's the problem in the case of a TVR as we don't have a PWM electrical system, but I guess if A900SS has a slightly iffy alternator regulator pack it could make his LEDs H4s pulse where he wouldn't have seen it with normal headlight bulbs
Knowing the TVR wiring though my money is still on a low voltage issue at the H4 connector.
Anyway the no-brainer proven option is just to buy the units with the constant current drivers that we know work well in a Chimaera and to stop chasing those extra few lumens. Lets face it the 3200 lumen (per bulb) ones I've been using for the last six months are already amazingly bright!
And they most definitely do not strobe
Now available for £50 on EBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-H4-3200LM-6500K-3...
While it is tempting to go with the higher lumen options becoming available it's probably better we stick with what we know works.
Saying that, check out these 4500 lumen (per bulb) bad boys
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-In-One-CREE-LED-H4-H...
Not so good if they arrive & you find they strobe though
Lets see if A900SS can make his work and go from there.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEJIHdR7BHs
Not sure if it's the problem in the case of a TVR as we don't have a PWM electrical system, but I guess if A900SS has a slightly iffy alternator regulator pack it could make his LEDs H4s pulse where he wouldn't have seen it with normal headlight bulbs
Knowing the TVR wiring though my money is still on a low voltage issue at the H4 connector.
Anyway the no-brainer proven option is just to buy the units with the constant current drivers that we know work well in a Chimaera and to stop chasing those extra few lumens. Lets face it the 3200 lumen (per bulb) ones I've been using for the last six months are already amazingly bright!
And they most definitely do not strobe
Now available for £50 on EBay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-H4-3200LM-6500K-3...
While it is tempting to go with the higher lumen options becoming available it's probably better we stick with what we know works.
Saying that, check out these 4500 lumen (per bulb) bad boys
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-In-One-CREE-LED-H4-H...
Not so good if they arrive & you find they strobe though
Lets see if A900SS can make his work and go from there.
Digitalize said:
Been following this just for the interest of LED bulbs, not sure if the Lumen output is when on Main Beam as all the H7 bulbs I can find are considerably lower? Or if the rating is the theoretical output if you had dipped and main on at the same time?
The lumen figures quoted are always on full beam, IE when all the LEDs are lit.The dip lumen figures are nearly always half the quoted main beam figures.
As a rule of thumb the 3200 lumen LED H4s I've been using for six months are around twice as bright as the very best regular bulbs you can buy on both main & dip beam, so to my mind well worth it for £50 as you can easily pay £20 for Philips Extremes.
LED H4s also resolve the disadvantages of HiD conversions.
Since fitting mine we have seen these LED H4s increase from 3200 lumens to 4000 lumens and now a whopping 4500 lumens, but to be honest the 3200 lumen ones are easily as bright as you could ever want on the road and are now well proven in my car.
With the power of these LEDs getting higher by the month and the technology becoming more accepted we should start to see my proven 3200 lumen versions get cheaper & cheaper.
But remember they're only as good as your corrosion prone reflectors and the beam delivered by the engraved glass lens used in the Chimaera. However, even if your silvering is going and your glass lenses are pitted (most will be) you'll still see a big improvement over incandescent bulbs.
Just make sure you put the car on a beam setter after fitting them, what was an acceptable adjustment with regular bulbs can soon become an antisocial blinding set of lights when you switch to these super powerful LEDs.
"ChimpOnGas & A900S testing new stuff so you dont have to"
ChimpOnGas said:
The lumen figures quoted are always on full beam, IE when all the LEDs are lit.
The dip lumen figures are nearly always half the quoted main beam figures.
As a rule of thumb the 3200 lumen LED H4s I've been using for six months are around twice as bright as the very best regular bulbs you can buy on both main & dip beam, so to my mind well worth it for £50 as you can easily pay £20 for Philips Extremes.
LED H4s also resolve the disadvantages of HiD conversions.
Since fitting mine we have seen these LED H4s increase from 3200 lumens to 4000 lumens and now a whopping 4500 lumens, but to be honest the 3200 lumen ones are easily as bright as you could ever want on the road and are now well proven in my car.
With the power of these LEDs getting higher by the month and the technology becoming more accepted we should start to see my proven 3200 lumen versions get cheaper & cheaper.
But remember they're only as good as your corrosion prone reflectors and the beam delivered by the engraved glass lens used in the Chimaera. However, even if your silvering is going and your glass lenses are pitted (most will be) you'll still see a big improvement over incandescent bulbs.
Just make sure you put the car on a beam setter after fitting them, what was an acceptable adjustment with regular bulbs can soon become an antisocial blinding set of lights when you switch to these super powerful LEDs.
"ChimpOnGas & A900S testing new stuff so you dont have to"
Sorry I should have mentioned I actually have a BMW E91, so no problems with the reflectors, lenses etc, just looking as LED bulbs interest me really! Hence needing H7 bulbs.The dip lumen figures are nearly always half the quoted main beam figures.
As a rule of thumb the 3200 lumen LED H4s I've been using for six months are around twice as bright as the very best regular bulbs you can buy on both main & dip beam, so to my mind well worth it for £50 as you can easily pay £20 for Philips Extremes.
LED H4s also resolve the disadvantages of HiD conversions.
Since fitting mine we have seen these LED H4s increase from 3200 lumens to 4000 lumens and now a whopping 4500 lumens, but to be honest the 3200 lumen ones are easily as bright as you could ever want on the road and are now well proven in my car.
With the power of these LEDs getting higher by the month and the technology becoming more accepted we should start to see my proven 3200 lumen versions get cheaper & cheaper.
But remember they're only as good as your corrosion prone reflectors and the beam delivered by the engraved glass lens used in the Chimaera. However, even if your silvering is going and your glass lenses are pitted (most will be) you'll still see a big improvement over incandescent bulbs.
Just make sure you put the car on a beam setter after fitting them, what was an acceptable adjustment with regular bulbs can soon become an antisocial blinding set of lights when you switch to these super powerful LEDs.
"ChimpOnGas & A900S testing new stuff so you dont have to"
Digitalize said:
Sorry I should have mentioned I actually have a BMW E91, so no problems with the reflectors, lenses etc, just looking as LED bulbs interest me really! Hence needing H7 bulbs.
I too have an E91 as well as the TVR S1 so interested in both H7 and H4need to check if the H7 is CANBUS freindly though
Although not TVR related - I can add further content to this tread. I stumbled across this thread whilst searching for fuel pump related issue for my Chimaera. Upon reading the first few pages, I thought, I have to have them. Well 2 weeks later they were delivered and have been fitted.
Most Impressive...!!!!
As per the OP says - very easy to fit, simply plug 'n' play, our original dust cap covers no longer fitted, due to the size of the heat sink/fan.
We wanted a clean/white look to the front of our race car and basically to get rid of the yellowing lens covers. These little babies have solved the issue for £50.
The Flash! is immediate and I mean very positive and urgent - we're not too fussed about throw (no dark racing for us), but brightness and 'look out you're about to be lapped' were more of a requirement - these are perfect.
Well done OP for you initial write-up...
jj
Most Impressive...!!!!
As per the OP says - very easy to fit, simply plug 'n' play, our original dust cap covers no longer fitted, due to the size of the heat sink/fan.
We wanted a clean/white look to the front of our race car and basically to get rid of the yellowing lens covers. These little babies have solved the issue for £50.
The Flash! is immediate and I mean very positive and urgent - we're not too fussed about throw (no dark racing for us), but brightness and 'look out you're about to be lapped' were more of a requirement - these are perfect.
Well done OP for you initial write-up...
jj
jj. said:
Although not TVR related - I can add further content to this tread. I stumbled across this thread whilst searching for fuel pump related issue for my Chimaera. Upon reading the first few pages, I thought, I have to have them. Well 2 weeks later they were delivered and have been fitted.
Most Impressive...!!!!
As per the OP says - very easy to fit, simply plug 'n' play, our original dust cap covers no longer fitted, due to the size of the heat sink/fan.
We wanted a clean/white look to the front of our race car and basically to get rid of the yellowing lens covers. These little babies have solved the issue for £50.
The Flash! is immediate and I mean very positive and urgent - we're not too fussed about throw (no dark racing for us), but brightness and 'look out you're about to be lapped' were more of a requirement - these are perfect.
Well done OP for you initial write-up...
jj
Great stuff Most Impressive...!!!!
As per the OP says - very easy to fit, simply plug 'n' play, our original dust cap covers no longer fitted, due to the size of the heat sink/fan.
We wanted a clean/white look to the front of our race car and basically to get rid of the yellowing lens covers. These little babies have solved the issue for £50.
The Flash! is immediate and I mean very positive and urgent - we're not too fussed about throw (no dark racing for us), but brightness and 'look out you're about to be lapped' were more of a requirement - these are perfect.
Well done OP for you initial write-up...
jj
Dave did you fit these ?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Thursday 30th April 22:37
SILICONEKID345HP said:
Dave did you fit these ?
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Yes, but not to my TVR.http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Edited by SILICONEKID345HP on Thursday 30th April 22:37
They are very good lights, but the LED H4 bulbs are the way forward for our cars in my opinion.
I also have some LED long range spots that I plan to fit before next winter comes.
They are very small, about 3" diameter, but serve up a very focused long range 3,500 lumens each. So the pair will add a further 7,000 lumens to my Mk3 headlight conversion with 4,000 lumen a peice LED H4s.
With the compete discrete package delivering 15,000 lumens in total I'm confident gloomy TVR headlights will just be a bad memory for me.
Ok guys, what am I doing wrong?
Bought the LED's that Chimp fitted and recommended, followed the install to the letter and zilch!
No light, no fan kicking in, nothing.
Have tried every combination of the two bulbs, fans and drivers but nothing works. Have power at the original light connector and have even swapped the original bulb back in to check all is working and it is.
I must be doing something wrong as surely the whole set can't be defunct!!
Have checked and re-checked everything is connected how it should be but just not getting any joy.
All help and ideas welcomed.
Bought the LED's that Chimp fitted and recommended, followed the install to the letter and zilch!
No light, no fan kicking in, nothing.
Have tried every combination of the two bulbs, fans and drivers but nothing works. Have power at the original light connector and have even swapped the original bulb back in to check all is working and it is.
I must be doing something wrong as surely the whole set can't be defunct!!
Have checked and re-checked everything is connected how it should be but just not getting any joy.
All help and ideas welcomed.
mach2 said:
Ok guys, what am I doing wrong?
Bought the LED's that Chimp fitted and recommended, followed the install to the letter and zilch!
No light, no fan kicking in, nothing.
Have tried every combination of the two bulbs, fans and drivers but nothing works. Have power at the original light connector and have even swapped the original bulb back in to check all is working and it is.
I must be doing something wrong as surely the whole set can't be defunct!!
Have checked and re-checked everything is connected how it should be but just not getting any joy.
All help and ideas welcomed.
It's almost impossible to get the installation wrong so it does sound like you may have a dead set, if it were me I'd be bench testing them.Bought the LED's that Chimp fitted and recommended, followed the install to the letter and zilch!
No light, no fan kicking in, nothing.
Have tried every combination of the two bulbs, fans and drivers but nothing works. Have power at the original light connector and have even swapped the original bulb back in to check all is working and it is.
I must be doing something wrong as surely the whole set can't be defunct!!
Have checked and re-checked everything is connected how it should be but just not getting any joy.
All help and ideas welcomed.
Get an old H4 connector, fit the LED units and hook up to a battery.
At least then you'll know if they're defunct or not.
I've basically done that on the car, started with one set and when that didn't work first tried changing the bulb, then the fan and then the driver itself. Swapped it all around so I'd tried every combination of all the units and then thought it must be me!!
I agree it's practically impossible to get wrong but I just can't believe the whole set would be defunct?
There's nothing daft like an earth being provided by the fitting on the back of the bowl?
The original bulb works without actually being in the housing so I assume not.
I agree it's practically impossible to get wrong but I just can't believe the whole set would be defunct?
There's nothing daft like an earth being provided by the fitting on the back of the bowl?
The original bulb works without actually being in the housing so I assume not.
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