Another body off thread.
Discussion
ChimpOnGas said:
Looking at the Rustbuster website and for future reference the best value way for people to buy their 121 Epoxy Mastic is to select their 6 litre pack which is £123.00 all in including postage and VAT.
Obviously you only want to buy this amount of product if you're painting the full chassis, wishbones, ect ect ect and even then you'll still end up with two litres more paint than you need, the way I'd look at it Alun is you paid £124.56 ie more or less the same money for all the paint you needed (3.75 litres), so I wouldn't worry about it mate.
Actually you played a blinder without even knowing it as you could have bought two of their 2.25 litre chassis packs but doing so would have cost you £143.98 for 4.5 litres, by far the best thing for people to do is spend £20 less on the 6 litre pack to get 1.5 litres more paint, this makes no sense but it's definitely the way to buy 121 Epoxy Mastic if you need a quantity of 3.5 litres or more.
I think Mr Rustbuster needs to check is pricing policy
Shush man : biglaugh: Obviously you only want to buy this amount of product if you're painting the full chassis, wishbones, ect ect ect and even then you'll still end up with two litres more paint than you need, the way I'd look at it Alun is you paid £124.56 ie more or less the same money for all the paint you needed (3.75 litres), so I wouldn't worry about it mate.
Actually you played a blinder without even knowing it as you could have bought two of their 2.25 litre chassis packs but doing so would have cost you £143.98 for 4.5 litres, by far the best thing for people to do is spend £20 less on the 6 litre pack to get 1.5 litres more paint, this makes no sense but it's definitely the way to buy 121 Epoxy Mastic if you need a quantity of 3.5 litres or more.
I think Mr Rustbuster needs to check is pricing policy
Listen I’m a salesman too when I need to be. Told em there’s 10 chassis waiting for this paint
Joke
Chassis 2 coats of paint and hardening off nicely.
Moved back into garage area. Start knocking it together tomorrow.
Wishbones and brackets 1 coat. Needs another but I might just hand paint them as it’s quite hard to get paint into the nooks and crannies without runs. They will be finished tomorrow one way or another.
Spent sometime just orientating engine brackets etc etc.
Start the build
Very exciting.
ETA Both upper front and rear wishbones have had a thin slither of filler to fill corrosion pit marks. I’m mindful filler does’nt flex well so this is a bit of an experiment. I’ve been told filler can pop through flex. This is so thin I can’t imagine it happening but if it does it will tell us
1 the wishbones flex
2 not to use it
Epoxy mastic paint should hold it in place too so I’ve been told but we will just have to wait and see.
I’ve had wishbones off a few times so it’s not the end of the world if it fails and I have to do them again.
I’d like tubular ones ultimately.
Moved back into garage area. Start knocking it together tomorrow.
Wishbones and brackets 1 coat. Needs another but I might just hand paint them as it’s quite hard to get paint into the nooks and crannies without runs. They will be finished tomorrow one way or another.
Spent sometime just orientating engine brackets etc etc.
Start the build
Very exciting.
ETA Both upper front and rear wishbones have had a thin slither of filler to fill corrosion pit marks. I’m mindful filler does’nt flex well so this is a bit of an experiment. I’ve been told filler can pop through flex. This is so thin I can’t imagine it happening but if it does it will tell us
1 the wishbones flex
2 not to use it
Epoxy mastic paint should hold it in place too so I’ve been told but we will just have to wait and see.
I’ve had wishbones off a few times so it’s not the end of the world if it fails and I have to do them again.
I’d like tubular ones ultimately.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 12th March 00:08
I've looked at this thread a few times with interest. Great stuff!
I hope you have a little bit of paint left for after drilling the new holes when mounting the body? I realise you can't drill holes in the rear seat belt mount plates or outrigger corner plates in the right place without refitting for alignment.
I hope you have a little bit of paint left for after drilling the new holes when mounting the body? I realise you can't drill holes in the rear seat belt mount plates or outrigger corner plates in the right place without refitting for alignment.
V8fan said:
I've looked at this thread a few times with interest. Great stuff!
I hope you have a little bit of paint left for after drilling the new holes when mounting the body? I realise you can't drill holes in the rear seat belt mount plates or outrigger corner plates in the right place without refitting for alignment.
Thankyou. I hope you have a little bit of paint left for after drilling the new holes when mounting the body? I realise you can't drill holes in the rear seat belt mount plates or outrigger corner plates in the right place without refitting for alignment.
Yes I’ve got a couple of ideas there.
Save enough paint then pinch rubber grommets between the body and floor plates. Should help reduce water coming in through those holes mostly in the front corners and soaking the carpets. Or a bit of mastic in the holes before dropping bolts through.
The plan is to drill holes with body on, lift body or in my case drop chassis down again, paint holes and let dry then lift chassis back up to body. Nothing should have moved in that time hopefully.
I’m doing a reversal of the body off technique as detailed earlier in this thread and guided to me by Steve D from Southways Automotive. I’ve found this system to be great when using a 2 post lift. I’m deeply greatfull as that part was probably my biggest fear. Without this detail I would have been faffing about for blinking hours.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 12th March 00:21
Before you start the build go over the chassis and all the parts with a round file to clean the holes ready for your new bolts. You can't have paint here because you want the hole to be a tight fit to the bolt. It will be OK because you will be fitting the bolts with copper grease.
Also run a tap through all the threaded holes.
If you don't file out all the holes you will tear the paint film around the hole as you push (hammer) bolts into the holes.
All the holes for bushes will be the same. If you are using poly bushes the holes need to be nice and smooth (use a drum sander) otherwise the bushes will be torn/abraded by the rough surface.
Steve
Also run a tap through all the threaded holes.
If you don't file out all the holes you will tear the paint film around the hole as you push (hammer) bolts into the holes.
All the holes for bushes will be the same. If you are using poly bushes the holes need to be nice and smooth (use a drum sander) otherwise the bushes will be torn/abraded by the rough surface.
Steve
Good points. When I changed the front wishbones on my Chimaera, I had to file away some of the powder coating on the new ones to get to the shock bolts through. Also, the bottom ball joint wouldn't seat in the wishbone properly without removing some powder coating. Should have checked that first..........
By the look of the photos, all the bushes are still fitted?
I used copper grease when assembling too.
By the look of the photos, all the bushes are still fitted?
I used copper grease when assembling too.
Duly noted. I mounted rear dif carrier bracket yesterday and noticed I had to wind bolts through which thankfully didn’t tear the paint as I did it before fitting but did leave vague thread marks through the holes. Interesting point re not painting chassis plate holes.
Yes I’ve always used copper slip.
What I found remarkable was my rear wishbone bolts still had copper slip allover the length of them. They look like they have never been off the car before but that doesn’t mean someone has not re greased bolts but I find that unlikely.
I’ve owned my car 10 years and the rear of the car has never knocked squeaked or caused any issues at all.
If people are obsessed with replacing bushes for the sake of it why do we never replace the two that hold the hub to the bottom rear wishbones?
Never have I heard of these being replaced although I’m sure some have.
All my front wishbones were new only a few years ago as was my dif carrier bush.
Do we also replace all 3 dif bushes?
My conclusion is simple, I’ll change them if and when they fail.
I’m doing this on a budget most would find impossible. I’m sick of throwing money at things that work perfectly well.
Yes I’ve always used copper slip.
What I found remarkable was my rear wishbone bolts still had copper slip allover the length of them. They look like they have never been off the car before but that doesn’t mean someone has not re greased bolts but I find that unlikely.
I’ve owned my car 10 years and the rear of the car has never knocked squeaked or caused any issues at all.
If people are obsessed with replacing bushes for the sake of it why do we never replace the two that hold the hub to the bottom rear wishbones?
Never have I heard of these being replaced although I’m sure some have.
All my front wishbones were new only a few years ago as was my dif carrier bush.
Do we also replace all 3 dif bushes?
My conclusion is simple, I’ll change them if and when they fail.
I’m doing this on a budget most would find impossible. I’m sick of throwing money at things that work perfectly well.
Edited by Classic Chim on Thursday 12th March 09:22
2OOM said:
So far so good Alun .. That looks stunning .. you're doing an amazing job ... I think some floor mirrors are in order for when it's finished to show off the underside ..
I’ve got one of those mechanics telescopic ones, I was wondering when it might become useful Graham Cheers mate
Steve_D said:
Clean those exhaust ports before you put the body on....pain in the backside doing them leaning over the front wing.
Steve
Yes I know. Garage is rather full so I just wanted to make some space Steve. Steve
I was going to do it the other day but got side tracked.
I have a serious problem bending over so now I can raise lift to a comfortable working height
Edited by Classic Chim on Friday 13th March 07:28
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