Discussion
so low battery stops play..... now charging.....
I've taken the plugs out and they were wet and smelt of fuel.
I've cleaned up and put back in my old BP7ES plugs, put a drop of oil in the cylinder.
Will try again in the morning and will try with immobiliser as it is and with mod (that I did earlier in this saga but is back in OE position), Will also get a tow from my wife's car.
It's my daily driver at the moment but I'm mainly up and down Brum airport at the moment so it's not killing me now having it running but the cerb is also out of action too with a failed saxo PS pump.
I've taken the plugs out and they were wet and smelt of fuel.
I've cleaned up and put back in my old BP7ES plugs, put a drop of oil in the cylinder.
Will try again in the morning and will try with immobiliser as it is and with mod (that I did earlier in this saga but is back in OE position), Will also get a tow from my wife's car.
It's my daily driver at the moment but I'm mainly up and down Brum airport at the moment so it's not killing me now having it running but the cerb is also out of action too with a failed saxo PS pump.
Hedgehopper said:
I' m sure you must have checked that the leads are in the correct order several times but is no.1 lead on the distributor cap the one the rotor arm points to when no.1 piston is approaching TDC on the compression stroke?
Sounds obvious but very easy to have the leads in the correct order but starting from the wrong cap contact.
out of interest is it possible for the rotor position to be off from the firing order? new one to meSounds obvious but very easy to have the leads in the correct order but starting from the wrong cap contact.
but you got me thinking that maybe the reluctor in the dizzy may be a possible cause, if its rusty wouldn't it help provide a weak spark ? easy one to check tomorrow.
red circles below from an earlier picture
Edited by Chimp871 on Sunday 28th January 20:58
Managed to clean around reluctor and magnet and check wiring from dizzy to amp - all coming in around 1.6 ohm. Small wiring loom on back of amp bracket is 1.6 ohm.
Curiously the dizzy to amp cable has wiring has 2 pins/ wires at dizzy (red blue) but 3 pins (extra black wire) at amp side but no obvious route for it.
Not had time for a tow.
Did notice the wires at alarm plug (large black ones) are frayed/weak. Weak spark candidate?
Curiously the dizzy to amp cable has wiring has 2 pins/ wires at dizzy (red blue) but 3 pins (extra black wire) at amp side but no obvious route for it.
Not had time for a tow.
Did notice the wires at alarm plug (large black ones) are frayed/weak. Weak spark candidate?
Any ideas how to release round pin on alarm plug (harness side - male) so I can fix the frayed wires?
And while we're at it with a multimeter, and note I'm enjoying this, I know one of the coil -ve (b&w + rectangle resistor) wires tells the ecu the engine is turning to pulse injectors. Could do with knowing which ecu pin to check that's ok. Might as well keep ruling out the easier ones.
And while we're at it with a multimeter, and note I'm enjoying this, I know one of the coil -ve (b&w + rectangle resistor) wires tells the ecu the engine is turning to pulse injectors. Could do with knowing which ecu pin to check that's ok. Might as well keep ruling out the easier ones.
Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 29th January 13:05
managed to do more checks today:
Repaired frayed alarm wiring on plug - made no difference
Checked AFM - possible problem - on ignition jumps to 0.8v and then takes 4 secs to drop to 0.4v (I quickly repeat it, it goes straight to 0.4v)
Distributor - removed cover under arm to clean reluctor and reset points to 0.25mm. This did then produce a strong spark on the king lead, so promising.
Plugs are out for cleaning so check tomorrow if I'm heading in the right direction.
But, and I don't know how to explain this
but I checked for approx TDC on cylinder 1 and at the rotor arm is NOT at #1 lead on dizzy cap 
as per bible. It's one cylinder before 
I appear to have a different lead config! can someone check the picture which was from my car a couple of years ago when all was good. The bible has the clip separating #1 and #8 leads, mine is separating #4 and #8. I didn't know there could be different setup..... if so I I'll be
Repaired frayed alarm wiring on plug - made no difference
Checked AFM - possible problem - on ignition jumps to 0.8v and then takes 4 secs to drop to 0.4v (I quickly repeat it, it goes straight to 0.4v)
Distributor - removed cover under arm to clean reluctor and reset points to 0.25mm. This did then produce a strong spark on the king lead, so promising.
Plugs are out for cleaning so check tomorrow if I'm heading in the right direction.
But, and I don't know how to explain this
but I checked for approx TDC on cylinder 1 and at the rotor arm is NOT at #1 lead on dizzy cap as per bible. It's one cylinder before I appear to have a different lead config! can someone check the picture which was from my car a couple of years ago when all was good. The bible has the clip separating #1 and #8 leads, mine is separating #4 and #8. I didn't know there could be different setup..... if so I I'll be
We're up and running.
The weak spark I can only put down to the distributor reluctor ring (the sprocket that passes an electromagent under the dizzy rotor arm cover) being either rusty or the gap to the magnet was too far. I couldn't remove the sprocket but cleaned in situ and the king lead spark became strong again.
The fact my firing position (not the firing order that was fine) wasn't per the bible was throwing me off.
Many thanks for the input and advice,
Edited by Chimp871 on Monday 5th February 13:20
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