New car. Clutch question.
Discussion
Hi,
Just bought a 1995 Chim. T5 box and Serp engine. Never had a TVR before so I don't know much about them.
Currently learning to drive the thing! Having to unlearn so many bad habits!
Should there be any free-play at the top of the clutch pedal travel. The clutch operates fine, but it feels like maybe there is a spring missing or the push rod needs adjusting.
What are you supposed to do with the Velcro bits when you lower the roof?
Thanks.
Just bought a 1995 Chim. T5 box and Serp engine. Never had a TVR before so I don't know much about them.
Currently learning to drive the thing! Having to unlearn so many bad habits!
Should there be any free-play at the top of the clutch pedal travel. The clutch operates fine, but it feels like maybe there is a spring missing or the push rod needs adjusting.
What are you supposed to do with the Velcro bits when you lower the roof?
Thanks.
andy43 said:
My clutch felt the same, and replacing the master cylinder due to a leak along with what looked like a perfectly good clevis pin got rid of the free play feeling. Kind of a dead spot at the top of the pedal.
Velcro - mine self releases - just let it pull away where needed.
Enjoy
You are right. I had a look at it this weekend and the pin that joins the pedal to the pushrod has a ton of play in it.Velcro - mine self releases - just let it pull away where needed.
Enjoy
Are these the right parts?
https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-j...
https://tvr-parts.com/tvr-parts/part-details/tvr-j...
Thanks
There is an internal spring in the master cylinder and it is known to break. Whether this would cause the symptoms you have I don't know but may be worth a thought.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=13...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=13...
Just for future reference. Changing the clutch pedal pins is a swine of a job.
The pin has welded itself to the clip thing that holds it on.
It's really tricky to access. The seat is in the way and the steering wheel digs into your back. You can't get any tools in. Heat is right out unless you want to set fire to the carpet.
I'll pick it up again tomorrow when I have some light to work in.
On the other hand, the coolent temp sender is a 5 minute job.
The pin has welded itself to the clip thing that holds it on.
It's really tricky to access. The seat is in the way and the steering wheel digs into your back. You can't get any tools in. Heat is right out unless you want to set fire to the carpet.
I'll pick it up again tomorrow when I have some light to work in.
On the other hand, the coolent temp sender is a 5 minute job.
gamefreaks said:
Just for future reference. Changing the clutch pedal pins is a swine of a job.
The pin has welded itself to the clip thing that holds it on.
It's really tricky to access. The seat is in the way and the steering wheel digs into your back. You can't get any tools in. Heat is right out unless you want to set fire to the carpet.
I'll pick it up again tomorrow when I have some light to work in.
On the other hand, the coolent temp sender is a 5 minute job.
Hi mate. The steering wheel is also a five minute job to remove. The pin has welded itself to the clip thing that holds it on.
It's really tricky to access. The seat is in the way and the steering wheel digs into your back. You can't get any tools in. Heat is right out unless you want to set fire to the carpet.
I'll pick it up again tomorrow when I have some light to work in.
On the other hand, the coolent temp sender is a 5 minute job.
Just undo the Allen bolts and pull steering wheel away a couple of inches and then just pull horn wire off the back. Seat is also fairly easy to remove but the wheel off should give you enough access. You have chosen to do one of the worst jobs possible early on,,, you'll do well.
goodluck Right. Done it.
Clutch pedal now feels perfect. If your clutch pedal is flopping around like a garden swing in the wind, this will fix it.
You can check this by holding the push rod that comes out of the master cylinder and trying to move the pedal. If the pedal moves, then these parts need replacing.
The parts are about £6.
This might be worth doing as a routine task, because if it's seized up and stuck together like mine was, then it's a pig of a job. But if not, it should take 10 mins tops.
The pin was seized to the fork so I used molegrips to get it moving, then the fork had seized to the thread on the pushrod. Jam a 13mm spanner on the lock nut, then get a long spanner and put the open end into the fork, put a long screwdriver through the ring end for leverage and unscrew it.
@BoostedChim: Your turn now! Get rid of that rubber band and tell us how you get on!
Clutch pedal now feels perfect. If your clutch pedal is flopping around like a garden swing in the wind, this will fix it.
You can check this by holding the push rod that comes out of the master cylinder and trying to move the pedal. If the pedal moves, then these parts need replacing.
The parts are about £6.
This might be worth doing as a routine task, because if it's seized up and stuck together like mine was, then it's a pig of a job. But if not, it should take 10 mins tops.
The pin was seized to the fork so I used molegrips to get it moving, then the fork had seized to the thread on the pushrod. Jam a 13mm spanner on the lock nut, then get a long spanner and put the open end into the fork, put a long screwdriver through the ring end for leverage and unscrew it.
@BoostedChim: Your turn now! Get rid of that rubber band and tell us how you get on!
Edited by gamefreaks on Friday 14th April 15:19
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