Trailer Loading: Forwards or Backwards, Ground Clearance

[nick997]

Canvassing opinions here based on real life experience over theory please: which way do you load the car onto the trailer, forwards or backwards? I acknowledge that backwards is the technically correct approach so that the mid mounted engine is towards the front of the trailer but looking at my car loaded forwards on the trailer puts the engine over the trailer rear axle line so not too far back and will help with a couple of other points.

Loading backwards puts the car weight a long way towards the front and means I will have to reverse the tyre rack to clear the rear wing which in turn will put even more weight forwards. Add in a couple of jerry cans full of fuel and there's a lot of weight towards the front. Possibly more nose weight than is ideal - not measured yet though.

I'm also having a few problems with ground clearance, basically the car is so low that loading forwards means the front splitter hits the trailer ramps before the wheels start to run up the ramps. Loading backwards means the splitter hits the ground as the rear wheels run up the ramps. Trailer is already jacked up on the jockey wheel as far as it will go. I can get round it (bodge it!) with a elaborate series of blocks of wood to lift the car but all a big PIA. A bit of basic geometry suggests that I need ramps 4m long to reduce the loading angle to get over the problem, mine are an already generous 2.4m but the trailer bed height is perhaps a little higher than most - it has inverted U sections to maximise the bed width. Anybody else have this problem or does everyone resort to using starter ramps?

Thanks

Nick

[nick997]

Thanks - my car is a SR4 where taking the front body off won't help with ground clearance as the body work and aero parts are separate. Does the clubsport bodywork work differently?

Nick

[nick997]

SportsLibre said:

nick997 said:

Thanks - my car is a SR4 where taking the front body off won't help with ground clearance as the body work and aero parts are separate. Does the clubsport bodywork work differently?

Nick

The front splitter is attached to the bodywork, removing it reduces the overhang dramatically

Hmmm, should of bought that Clubsport then... My car must have the longest period from purchase to track of any car ever. Once I've got the trailer sorted I now notice I have a bit of an oil leak to sort out.

Thanks for the feedback from everyone, hope to see some of you at a track sometime soon - BertBert, how's the rebuild going?

Nick

[nick997]

Bazza - picked up a hitch weight measurer off ebay for £4 so ok to measure when I have the car next up on the trailer. Sorting out a better way of getting up the ramps is my bigger problem now, any chance you can post a couple of pictures of the starter ramps and blocks you have, sounds just like what I need - email me if easier.

Thanks

Nick

[nick997]

BertBert said:

Nick, I am a whisker away! It's all back together. Just need to bleed the brakes and the clutch, get it off the chassis stands and get the geo set up. Oh dear, that'll take another three months!

Bert

Well done. I now have a trailer that can get in and out the garage ok, just need to make the loading easier as per this post and see where my slight oil leak is coming too and I'm there. Sounds like 3 months for me too and then I'll see you at a track somewhere!

Nick

[nick997]

RobC said:

Slight oil leak, all the best engines leak

Can I take it that you wouldn't be too worried about a slight leak then? I was tempted to leave it but not tempted to pay for a rebuild if it's more of a problem than it appears. I can't see an obvious place for the leak, think it's probably some of the pipe connections under the engine.

Nick

[nick997]

BertBert said:

my newly rebuilt and installed engine leaked oil. I have hopefully found and tightened up the offending unions!

3 months it is!

Bert

It sounds like I am in good company. Better revise my timeframe to 2 months if I leave the oil leak - does that put the pressue back on you?

Nick