B8 S4 Ownership
Discussion
Adrian E said:
I would - will reset battery management and it'll learn as though the battery is new. Won't do any harm and may prolong its life still
You may want to pull the connector to the battery management module off the +ve terminal to reset it as well....
Ok I'll give it a go. I thought as much, nothing to lose.You may want to pull the connector to the battery management module off the +ve terminal to reset it as well....
Is the connection to the battery management obvious ? Wether to disconnect the battery was going to be my next question.
Also is it UDS or non UDS although VCDS will tell me which I presume.
Easternlight said:
Ok I'll give it a go. I thought as much, nothing to lose.
Is the connection to the battery management obvious ? Wether to disconnect the battery was going to be my next question.
Also is it UDS or non UDS although VCDS will tell me which I presume.
Connection is pretty obvious (it's been a while since I did mine!) - from memory there is a 2 pin black plug attached to the +ve terminal. It's literally a case of unplugging, leave for a minute for any residual power to dissipate, then plug back in.Is the connection to the battery management obvious ? Wether to disconnect the battery was going to be my next question.
Also is it UDS or non UDS although VCDS will tell me which I presume.
From memory it's non-UDS. Worth watching the video on RossTech wiki (which I'm guessing you may already have done based on the question!) as there can be some 'zero' and 'O' issues to be wary of.
I fitted an OEM battery on the first occasion - on 2nd I used a Yuasa and I don't recall struggling to get it to work. I may have just varied the previously coded battery serial number by 1 digit
Adrian E said:
Easternlight said:
Ok I'll give it a go. I thought as much, nothing to lose.
Is the connection to the battery management obvious ? Wether to disconnect the battery was going to be my next question.
Also is it UDS or non UDS although VCDS will tell me which I presume.
Connection is pretty obvious (it's been a while since I did mine!) - from memory there is a 2 pin black plug attached to the +ve terminal. It's literally a case of unplugging, leave for a minute for any residual power to dissipate, then plug back in.Is the connection to the battery management obvious ? Wether to disconnect the battery was going to be my next question.
Also is it UDS or non UDS although VCDS will tell me which I presume.
From memory it's non-UDS. Worth watching the video on RossTech wiki (which I'm guessing you may already have done based on the question!) as there can be some 'zero' and 'O' issues to be wary of.
I fitted an OEM battery on the first occasion - on 2nd I used a Yuasa and I don't recall struggling to get it to work. I may have just varied the previously coded battery serial number by 1 digit
I feel like an idiot.
After 8+ years of B8 ownership, and continual whinging about how slow the front screen demist is, I found I'm doing it wrong.
Don't just press the "front demist" button. Instead, manually turn the fan speed up to the max (which is higher than the 'max' that demist gives you) , then manually select the air direction to upwards only. Result = Much for flow through the dash vents.
Grrr.
After 8+ years of B8 ownership, and continual whinging about how slow the front screen demist is, I found I'm doing it wrong.
Don't just press the "front demist" button. Instead, manually turn the fan speed up to the max (which is higher than the 'max' that demist gives you) , then manually select the air direction to upwards only. Result = Much for flow through the dash vents.
Grrr.
More problems with my 2010 S4 Cab.
Water temp part of the cluster has started flickering, not a big issue.
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Any idea what it could be?
Bet the extended warranty won’t cover it...
Water temp part of the cluster has started flickering, not a big issue.
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Any idea what it could be?
Bet the extended warranty won’t cover it...
silentbrown said:
I feel like an idiot.
After 8+ years of B8 ownership, and continual whinging about how slow the front screen demist is, I found I'm doing it wrong.
Don't just press the "front demist" button. Instead, manually turn the fan speed up to the max (which is higher than the 'max' that demist gives you) , then manually select the air direction to upwards only. Result = Much for flow through the dash vents.
Grrr.
Yup, keep it garaged. That's the right way.After 8+ years of B8 ownership, and continual whinging about how slow the front screen demist is, I found I'm doing it wrong.
Don't just press the "front demist" button. Instead, manually turn the fan speed up to the max (which is higher than the 'max' that demist gives you) , then manually select the air direction to upwards only. Result = Much for flow through the dash vents.
Grrr.
matrignano said:
More problems with my 2010 S4 Cab.
Water temp part of the cluster has started flickering, not a big issue.
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Any idea what it could be?
Bet the extended warranty won’t cover it...
Flickering dash happened to ours - new cluster from Audi in the end, with a 10% contribution from us (less than the excess on the warranty). I 'think' there are now companies who will strip and repair your cluster for a lot less, assuming you can live without the car while it's being done. Dr G will probably know of who is any good. The LEDs aren't user replaceable (unless you're into your electronics and are capable of soldering on a circuit board!)Water temp part of the cluster has started flickering, not a big issue.
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Any idea what it could be?
Bet the extended warranty won’t cover it...
Suspension will have thrown a fault code - needs reading to see if it's module or component related. Doesn't need to be crippling to fix (could be a dodgy wire)
Random question from me,
Say if the B8 S4 has had the "back box delete" done to it, what is a good solution to get rid of the massive droning noise you get within the cabin?
(If wanting to also keep the existing tail pipes and also want to keep a relatively sporty sound - ie. not return it to the very quiet stock sound)
Say if the B8 S4 has had the "back box delete" done to it, what is a good solution to get rid of the massive droning noise you get within the cabin?
(If wanting to also keep the existing tail pipes and also want to keep a relatively sporty sound - ie. not return it to the very quiet stock sound)
matrignano said:
More problems with my 2010 S4 Cab.
Water temp part of the cluster has started flickering, not a big issue.
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Any idea what it could be?
Bet the extended warranty won’t cover it...
Well now it’s the suspension light, gearbox malfunction AND parking brake malfunction!Water temp part of the cluster has started flickering, not a big issue.
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Any idea what it could be?
Bet the extended warranty won’t cover it...
Left me motionless a few times at traffic lights, hadto turn the car off and on a few times and it would work for another 10 minutes, before the issue reoccurred. Just about made it back home.
I’m starting to wonder - the suspension light came on 10 minutes into my first drive after laying the car up for 2 weeks.
These issues all seem electronic and not mechanical to me (gearbox and parking brake actually work - after a restart).
Could it be a low battery that caused electrical issues?
Edited by matrignano on Tuesday 17th March 13:17
Edited by matrignano on Tuesday 17th March 16:18
matrignano said:
Suspension fault warning light has come on, more worrying. Doesn’t come on every time I start the car and drive it, but most.
I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Educated guess (a proper diagnostic is what you need) but that sounds like it could be the electronics that control the adjustment on the dampers (assuming you have damping control). A lot of warranties treat dampers as wear items and the control electronics for adjustable dampers from Audi tend to be part of said unit.I have ADS for what it’s worth.
Adrian E said:
Dr G will probably know of who is any good.
Cartronix in Waterlooville do all mine; quick turnaround on posted units or while you wait (with a very reasonable labour charge if you're close enough for it).GroundZero said:
Random question from me,
Say if the B8 S4 has had the "back box delete" done to it, what is a good solution to get rid of the massive droning noise you get within the cabin?
Buy a quality sport exhaust; seriously NONE of the resonator/backbox-delete efforts ever sound good. Droney, farty, raspy, or all three. To my mind they're a bodge.Say if the B8 S4 has had the "back box delete" done to it, what is a good solution to get rid of the massive droning noise you get within the cabin?
Dr G said:
GroundZero said:
Random question from me,
Say if the B8 S4 has had the "back box delete" done to it, what is a good solution to get rid of the massive droning noise you get within the cabin?
Buy a quality sport exhaust; seriously NONE of the resonator/backbox-delete efforts ever sound good. Droney, farty, raspy, or all three. To my mind they're a bodge.Say if the B8 S4 has had the "back box delete" done to it, what is a good solution to get rid of the massive droning noise you get within the cabin?
Is there a good option available without breaking the bank?
Ah ok that is good to know.
So it must be that the B7 S4 had "direct injection", where as the B8 S4 has the more typical "port injection" ?
"Direct injection" being the reason why carbon builds, as the fuel is sprayed directly in to the cylinder and does not clean the valves as a result.
So it must be that the B7 S4 had "direct injection", where as the B8 S4 has the more typical "port injection" ?
"Direct injection" being the reason why carbon builds, as the fuel is sprayed directly in to the cylinder and does not clean the valves as a result.
It's more the fact the B8 is forced induction, which gets the fuel moving faster at the point of entry into the bores, so you don't get the varnish build up from just pouring the stuff in at more or less atmospheric pressure.
Not all direct injection engines suffer the problem - it's more the case that VW/Audi weren't very good/quick at spotting it as a problem in their engine design, and even slower to do something about it!
Not all direct injection engines suffer the problem - it's more the case that VW/Audi weren't very good/quick at spotting it as a problem in their engine design, and even slower to do something about it!
GroundZero said:
Ah ok that is good to know.
So it must be that the B7 S4 had "direct injection", where as the B8 S4 has the more typical "port injection" ?
"Direct injection" being the reason why carbon builds, as the fuel is sprayed directly in to the cylinder and does not clean the valves as a result.
Yes/No.So it must be that the B7 S4 had "direct injection", where as the B8 S4 has the more typical "port injection" ?
"Direct injection" being the reason why carbon builds, as the fuel is sprayed directly in to the cylinder and does not clean the valves as a result.
The B8 S4 3.0 supercharged has direct injection. The facelift B8.5s from MY2015 (I think) have the later EU6 CREC engine which a second set of injectors for additional port injection.
Remember that direct injection isn't the actual cause of carbon build-up - it's just that the fuel wash can reduce the amount of it. The amount of carbon build-up will depend on the port and valve design, choice of oil, etc.
The consensus seems to be that (unlike the B7 RS4) the B8 S4 doesn't suffer badly from carbon build-up, despite using direct injection.
The B7 S4 is port injected, so I suspect you're confused!
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