winter refurb

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anonymous said:

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this was a std screen, as my old one was cracked, so had to be replaced. it fits really well, far better than the last one, probably because it was done as Ians workshop, with a fitter they know

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phazed said:

Steve, how is the steering?

not fitted the pump yet, but the rest is just fine

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phazed said:

So are you driving it without the pump?

only a few miles, as ive some other bit to do, but its fine

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it was far too cold this weekend to do anything outside, so i spent some time in the garage.

I contacted Keri at WMAs a while back, asking if the WMS kit i had under my 15 inch wheels could be made to accept a larger disc. Couple of weeks later, i received some larger 300 mm discs, some new caliper brackets, which move the existing caliper out further, and new calliper spacers, so I split the calipers, fitted the new spacers between the caliper halves, and rebuilt. was expecting this to be a long job, but it only took half an hour per side.

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Keri said:

I'd been meaning to ask how you'd got on, good to hear it wasn't too hard to upgrade! :-)

dead easy really, a few pics

15 inch fitment (280mm discs)



17 inch fitment (300mm discs)



and a few more bits and bobs

new 7 inch lamps


painted engine covers


and seat embroidery

Edited by SSPPGG on Tuesday 4th December 15:43

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dynod the griff yesterday after a brief running in period.

Greg, pro tuner, redditch

made 250hp at 2500, 455 hp at 5500 (as high as i wanted to go on a newish engine),


6.0 ls block
ls3 heads and inlet
ls3 cam/injectors etc
"safe" tune.

not too shabby for NA

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tq was about the same, i forgot to grab a graph though,

it poured down on way home, so drive was very sedate.....

i finally wired up the ps just before i took the car to dyno....seems to be weighted about right for the griff,

I need to get tracking/camber etc done now, then it is about finished, so you're welcome to come try anytime

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I never liked that i could see the brake cylinder through the vented bonnet, and I fitted a larger bore clutch slave, so needed to enlarge the cover to suit.......

so made the following covers from fibreglass (shamelessly borrowed the idea of the brake cover from christians car). The odd bolt spacing is to make sure the bolt heads cant be seen through the vents, as I am going to leave them open, not meshed

Edited by SSPPGG on Monday 31st December 23:10

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i couldnt believe just how much heat escapes from the slits. . the areas around the slits at the front of the bonnet are hot to touch, there is so much heat escaping from them. definately a huge improvement, and so far, with a standard sized (but ali) rad, ive no temp issues, the LS is running cooler than the rover did before the vented bonnet was fitted.

my dakota digital tach converter arrived today, The old tach was driven off the old ecu, which could be programmed to produce a signal for the TVR rev counter, but the new ECU| just wont, so have had to revert to a dakota unit.....

I did try a pull up resistor on the tech wire, which sort of worked, but the signal is too erratic.

decided I want to get tthe diff rebuilt.....ive a clonk.....bugs me.diff mounts are all new, so Im sure its not that,

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7 TVR said:

Looking very tidy under there and so much nicer than the standard brake cylinder set up
Engine bay looks factory fit and a credit to your skills

thanks Christian, ive done a little fibreglass work before, but never something that could be seen as a finished part...quite enjoyed it, the shape of the clutch cover was made by fibreglassing over a balloon i wedged in the hole when the clinder was out.....couldnt think of any other way of getting a complex curve like that even, other than fabbing from foam, which i tried, and it looked pants.

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dnb said:

It all looks excellent. It's good to see Griffs rebuilt to such a standard.

I like the balloon idea - I might borrow it since I need to make a new clutch cylinder cover.

I note you're getting the diff rebuilt. Is it a GKN? If so, the bang might be the collapsible spacer being too collapsed. I had mine rebuilt with solid spacers everywhere, and a couple of inserts to make the bearings a lot cheaper and easier to find.

thanks, when i fitted the LS, i replaced the gkn with a btw (had to make the diff mounts as this pre cat chassis is a bit different from those fitted with later diffs), but i really ought to have bit the bullet then and fully reconditioned it, rather than a look over.....I had the exhaust off this morning for a good look over, and retorquing all the bolts after a few hundred miles, the clonk is definitely in the diff, though the crown and pinion are fine, so it might just be a case of pulling it out, and resetting ....though the diff internals are a bit beyond my skills as i wouldnt know what to check for (other than the swipe patterns on the C&P)

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decided to pull the diff sunday and take it to Bernie at CTS for new bearings and a refresh......wish id done that when it was out of the chassis last time....still, itll be back in a few days, so I will be able to get it back the following weekend. probably the biggest PITA job on the griff.....not looking forward to it.

After fiddling with the new GM e.c.u. it simply wont let me drive the tvr rev counter, which is a pain, as the old GM e.c.u. did, but the options don't exist in this version , and im not reflashing all the e.c.u. ops system just to get a working tach!....So I finally have a working tach usinga dakota digital tach convertor, which is programmable,and allows you to alter pulses and settings etc.

spent some time adjusting front and rear toe, camber/caster/tyre pressures etc. these RSR seem to be better (on the griff at least) with lowish (21) psi, much more and they feel really harsh. getting the geometry correct has paid dividends in improved handling,

Edited by SSPPGG on Thursday 3rd January 12:25

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diffs out, props off for balancing check, a couple people have asked about clearance around the tr6060, and the mount i made.....at its tightest, there is about 8mm passenger side, 12mm driver side

hope that helps

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dropped the diff into john reid, who confirmed it was all good, just needs a refresh and reset of tolerances, so should get that back this week.

also booked the car into centre gravity, for them to setup the suspension using their laser alignment system........it would be good to see how far out i am using string and ruler methods in the garage!

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diffs back, needed a new bearing, but otherwise all is good with C and P

props back form balancing.....miles out. seems a UJ "expired" and end float made it unbalancable, so that has been replaced (only did 200 miles, and a dyno session)...

box arrived today with some stupidly expensive diff oil form Morris....recommended by John, but 15 quid a litre.......eek!!

all back together tomorrow I hope.

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anonymous said:

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i dont know what the reservoir is, but it was the stock tvr one....looks the same as everyone else's.

i found the lid on a poverty model peugeot xxxxx worked, (though you lose the fluid level check.

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SSPPGG said:

jfjfjf2 said:

Some clues to replacement reservoir cap from steve-V8s in thread titled 'vented bonnet and brake fluid reservoir"

JF

I cqn confirm the poverty model citroen c2 cap fits the ford reservoir... and gives just enough clearance for the vented bonnet louvres without fouling.

peugeot/citrone......i knew it was french.......

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GasMunkey said:

Where did the gearbox bush come from Steve?

they come in a range of shore, (hardness). i think it was 30, but they do stiffer versions, but so far, this feels ok


http://www.vibration-mounts.co.uk/ViewItem.php?Ite...

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couple of people have asked about the diff mount i made to swap the BTR diff into the GKN precat chassis.

the precat chassis has the diff bush mounted centrally. using the original GKN diff mount therefore would make the diff offset to one side.

so i made up a diff mount that holds the bush offset to one side, centralising the driveshafts and the original diff mount

measuring the output flanges, i made the mount with 2mm play either side of the bush, so i could use machine washers to shim it exactly

url]|http://thumbsnap.com/aZXyMToa[/url]

Edited by SSPPGG on Monday 21st January 17:47

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fitting power steering has made me consider how little caster the standard geometry has.

when ive fitted PAS to other cars, ive been ale to add upto 7 degrees of caster, so i am going to try to increment the caster, to see how it reacts.

I picked up some tubed upper wishbones that are more adjustable than stock, to try