Worst Job on a Mini
Discussion
From the earlier suggestion, let's post what we think are the worst jobs on a Mini then suggest ways of making them easier.
I'll start with the clevis pins/split pins on the brake and clutch master cylinders. I use 'R'-pins' to replace the split pins when re-assembling, but you must take care to ensure that the clevis pins don't roll along the box section across the bulkhead. You also need some long-nosed pliars.
I'll start with the clevis pins/split pins on the brake and clutch master cylinders. I use 'R'-pins' to replace the split pins when re-assembling, but you must take care to ensure that the clevis pins don't roll along the box section across the bulkhead. You also need some long-nosed pliars.
WildfireS3 said:
Changing the clutch whilst the engine is still in the car.
All my cars have the bypass hoes blocked off.
The access to the clutch housing bolts can be improved by cutting a couple of 1" dia holes in the sub-frame side web to allow a 3/8" sq. drive socket to be put onto the bolts. Just make sure you cut the holes in the right place. On my 'red' car, one of the holes is now a slot!
For access to the front flex hoses, just cut away a bit from the bottom of the inner wing, making sure you er-flange the edges to put back the stiffness, or rivet (or weld) a doubler plate along the cut line.
This thread is great for sharing those little maintenance tips.
By the way, when you remove the rear sub-frame, and the bolts in the front mountings shear off, the stubs can often be removed by mig-welding a nut onto the stub close to the body. The heat from the welding and the shortened bolt length usually frees off the rust. then just run a 5/16" unf tap down the threaded holes and jobsagoodun. It worked a treat on my 'black' car recently, even though 3 of the 4 bolts sheared.
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