Drip Drip Drip and the Trapped Mouse
Discussion
Hello chaps,
Well it appears that the latest thing to fill my evenings and weekends is some oil leaking issues. I appear to have 3 oil leaks (joy!), one from the LH Driveshaft/Diff Oil Seal, one from the RH Driveshaft/Diff Oil Seal and the usual one from where the linkage enters the gearbox.
Looking at Haynes these dont seem too difficult to do (though why the specified tool is £30 I have no idea). Anything I should be looking out for or doing the same time as I am in there?
Also he seems to have developed this odd squeaking/creaking noise. It happens at low speed when pulling off the drive etc and is quite intrusive. At speed however everything is fine unless I hit some rough ground and it comes back
.
Any ideas?
Well it appears that the latest thing to fill my evenings and weekends is some oil leaking issues. I appear to have 3 oil leaks (joy!), one from the LH Driveshaft/Diff Oil Seal, one from the RH Driveshaft/Diff Oil Seal and the usual one from where the linkage enters the gearbox.
Looking at Haynes these dont seem too difficult to do (though why the specified tool is £30 I have no idea). Anything I should be looking out for or doing the same time as I am in there?
Also he seems to have developed this odd squeaking/creaking noise. It happens at low speed when pulling off the drive etc and is quite intrusive. At speed however everything is fine unless I hit some rough ground and it comes back
. Any ideas?
Yeah I thought it would be a bush. I had planned at some point to replace all of them with poly bushes, but that is all part of the upcoming rose jointed arms/KAD discs all round/coil over conversion.
I may do the bushes first, but can you reuse them?
This special tool is basically like a large ball joint splitter, but one shaped like a playing card. You place the u-section cut out around the pot joint output shaft and then bang the other end using the diff case as a fulcrum. This is supposed to make it easier to separate the joint.
The oil does leak quite a large amount once its hot, but it does slow down a lot when it cools, I just thought I may as well do them all now to save me doing it in the winter. No garage you see...
However I need some hammers and Sealey if you buy 3 hammers you get 4 pry bars free so I may just do that!
Edited to add: Just seen your response Paul, thats two saying bollocks to the tool so thats that!
The bigger engine is coming but it may have to take a back seat for a while. I really want to do the work myself as I have been saying for years that I will do it up, but to do all that I'll need a place with a garage first...The Chim still has to go first whatever happens!
I'll have a look whether its sitting lower, these knuckle joints fairly simple?
>> Edited by plotloss (moderator) on Monday 21st July 08:54
I may do the bushes first, but can you reuse them?
This special tool is basically like a large ball joint splitter, but one shaped like a playing card. You place the u-section cut out around the pot joint output shaft and then bang the other end using the diff case as a fulcrum. This is supposed to make it easier to separate the joint.
The oil does leak quite a large amount once its hot, but it does slow down a lot when it cools, I just thought I may as well do them all now to save me doing it in the winter. No garage you see...
However I need some hammers and Sealey if you buy 3 hammers you get 4 pry bars free so I may just do that!
Edited to add: Just seen your response Paul, thats two saying bollocks to the tool so thats that!
The bigger engine is coming but it may have to take a back seat for a while. I really want to do the work myself as I have been saying for years that I will do it up, but to do all that I'll need a place with a garage first...The Chim still has to go first whatever happens!
I'll have a look whether its sitting lower, these knuckle joints fairly simple?
>> Edited by plotloss (moderator) on Monday 21st July 08:54
Yeah just read that, Calver is dead handy with 'dem spanners eh?
If it is the knuckle (how will I know, will it be obvious?) should I go for the >92 on if I am going for 13's or stick with the OEM?
Perhaps now is the time to bite the bullet on the rose joints and the coil overs, the brakes can wait...
Would a shot knuckle also cause judder under braking?
If it is the knuckle (how will I know, will it be obvious?) should I go for the >92 on if I am going for 13's or stick with the OEM?
Perhaps now is the time to bite the bullet on the rose joints and the coil overs, the brakes can wait...
Would a shot knuckle also cause judder under braking?
more worn than the outside edge. Noticed that the knuckles are cheap...
I take it they are best done in pairs?
If I take it to a Kwik Fit type place will they be able/willing to just diagnose whats wrong with it as I dont think its just the one thing.
I dont mind doing the work at all (fitting I am alright at) its the diagnosis aspect I struggle with...
I take it they are best done in pairs?
If I take it to a Kwik Fit type place will they be able/willing to just diagnose whats wrong with it as I dont think its just the one thing.
I dont mind doing the work at all (fitting I am alright at) its the diagnosis aspect I struggle with...
Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff