The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
Bullett said:
Buy a wash and cure station as well.
You don't want to be messing about manually cleaning prints.
Assuming you are designing your own stuff make sure you understand the print hollowing, orientation and support process. Maybe worth printing some other peoples stuff that is pre-supported to make sure your printer is dialled in.
That's a good shout. A mate has the anycubic one and seems to rate it. I'm not sure whether there are bigger ones available to suit the printer Chris ordered - the ones I've seen seem to be based on the Elegoo Mars / Anycubic Photon print bed size.You don't want to be messing about manually cleaning prints.
Assuming you are designing your own stuff make sure you understand the print hollowing, orientation and support process. Maybe worth printing some other peoples stuff that is pre-supported to make sure your printer is dialled in.
I bought the 'ELEGOO Mercury Plus 2 in 1 Wash and Curing Machine' together with the printer, and I would say it is essential!
Have got to grips with it, (Elegoo Saturn) somewhat, now, but still need to learn about fine tuning settings.
Here are some of my first efforts, from my master STL files, which usually are sent to my resin cast guy in Hungary to do for me.
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Need to fiddle about with supports, prefer as few as I can get away with...
Have got to grips with it, (Elegoo Saturn) somewhat, now, but still need to learn about fine tuning settings.
Here are some of my first efforts, from my master STL files, which usually are sent to my resin cast guy in Hungary to do for me.
[url]Need to fiddle about with supports, prefer as few as I can get away with...
Look great Chris!
On supports - you'll likely get the cleanest finish possible by having a tonne of extra fine supports rather than fewer thicker ones.
On smell - some resins are worse than others. Fumes from IPA are pretty heady too... I have a hobby room, which I open the window of when I'm working in there, especially when the wash tubs are unsealed. When machine is running, I picked up a pack of little activated charcoal filters from elegoo on amazon - sits behind the vat under the hood and no resin smell at all whilst printing.
I do use anycubic eco resin though, as it's zero VOC. Perhaps not quite the level of detail possible with resins like siraya tech, but perfectly good for me.
On supports - you'll likely get the cleanest finish possible by having a tonne of extra fine supports rather than fewer thicker ones.
On smell - some resins are worse than others. Fumes from IPA are pretty heady too... I have a hobby room, which I open the window of when I'm working in there, especially when the wash tubs are unsealed. When machine is running, I picked up a pack of little activated charcoal filters from elegoo on amazon - sits behind the vat under the hood and no resin smell at all whilst printing.
I do use anycubic eco resin though, as it's zero VOC. Perhaps not quite the level of detail possible with resins like siraya tech, but perfectly good for me.
Anyone got any tips or suggestions for threaded inserts? I have used captive nuts in the past when I want things to screw together but i have a couple of applications where I want to avoid that.
I have seen some that are glued in and others melted in with a soldering iron. Which are best?
I have seen some that are glued in and others melted in with a soldering iron. Which are best?
Scabutz said:
Anyone got any tips or suggestions for threaded inserts? I have used captive nuts in the past when I want things to screw together but i have a couple of applications where I want to avoid that.
I have seen some that are glued in and others melted in with a soldering iron. Which are best?
I would assume melting them in is better. I have seen some that are glued in and others melted in with a soldering iron. Which are best?
1. Just make sure that you increase number of perimeters so your melting into solid plastic.
2. Ensure that the hole is deeper than the insert length if your not putting the hole all the way through the item, so that the melted plastic has somewhere to go.
3. Put a slight chamfer on the hole. Makes it easier to align the insert.
Have a look on Youtube for 'CNC Kitchen'. He's done videos on inserts, testing the different styles for strength and other things.
Edited by Russ35 on Wednesday 24th November 18:09
Well, My first Elegoo Saturn decided to break down within a week of me receiving, failing exposure test. I bought a new LCD screen and installed, along with the firmware files in the correct order, still failed exposure test. So that has to go back.
Today, my second Saturn printed decided to break (after 4 days), with the head not going down far enough into the resin tank to print. Again, I did all I could to to resolve this but nothing worked, so this is also going back. Before this, it was only printing a small part of what it should have (from a total 50 large carronade barrels, I got 6, quite comical.
I loved my time with the printer, but to be honest, they are way too poorly built to invest in any more. I simply cannot risk such breakdowns if large orders depend on them. I think they are more suited to a hobbyist or casual wargamer who wants to print the odd figure. But for production printers, if your livelihood depends on them, they are not worth the risk.
I will look at better quality, higher cost printers, but my confidence in them is very dented. I think they still need to mature some more.
For now, I have little choice but to stick with my trusty resin castor. The amount of time I have wasted on these is ridiculous and cost me more time than it cost the sub contactors invoices!. Trying to print something like 100 cannon barrels at a time was also a nightmare, as there were always a few failed prints. This means the resin tank needs draining, cleaning and refilled, and what a mess that makes if you're not on the ball!
Today, my second Saturn printed decided to break (after 4 days), with the head not going down far enough into the resin tank to print. Again, I did all I could to to resolve this but nothing worked, so this is also going back. Before this, it was only printing a small part of what it should have (from a total 50 large carronade barrels, I got 6, quite comical.
I loved my time with the printer, but to be honest, they are way too poorly built to invest in any more. I simply cannot risk such breakdowns if large orders depend on them. I think they are more suited to a hobbyist or casual wargamer who wants to print the odd figure. But for production printers, if your livelihood depends on them, they are not worth the risk.
I will look at better quality, higher cost printers, but my confidence in them is very dented. I think they still need to mature some more.
For now, I have little choice but to stick with my trusty resin castor. The amount of time I have wasted on these is ridiculous and cost me more time than it cost the sub contactors invoices!. Trying to print something like 100 cannon barrels at a time was also a nightmare, as there were always a few failed prints. This means the resin tank needs draining, cleaning and refilled, and what a mess that makes if you're not on the ball!
^^ tad early.,hope you wrapped it before playing with it.
Watch a by "3D Printing Nerd" on high temp filament of 300-500c scary expensive filament shame they didnt go into the machine and dread to think of price of machine. https://youtu.be/U3kgGxrB-bk
Watch a by "3D Printing Nerd" on high temp filament of 300-500c scary expensive filament shame they didnt go into the machine and dread to think of price of machine. https://youtu.be/U3kgGxrB-bk
Ender 3 V2 bed levelling its like painting the fourth road bridge isnt it. Check, re check, double check, check all over again. Print, nah gone to s
t. Cleaned the plate, yeah buggered again.
I have just about got it printing decent again.
Are there any upgrades to make it better, or at least stay level a bit longer. Right now I fell like if I look at it funny it goes out.
t. Cleaned the plate, yeah buggered again.I have just about got it printing decent again.
Are there any upgrades to make it better, or at least stay level a bit longer. Right now I fell like if I look at it funny it goes out.
Stiffer springs? Seems a bit excessive though, my original Ender 3 will do 3 or 4 prints inbetween levelling. Most of the time I tend to give it a quick check before a print though, it's not like it takes a massive amount of time.
I do have a bltouch but haven't got round to fitting it yet.
I do have a bltouch but haven't got round to fitting it yet.
You need some type of auto bed levelling.
Probably the most common is the BL Touch probe, but be aware that there are many Chinese clones around usually called 3D Touch.
Creality do there own version called the CR Touch. https://www.crealityofficial.co.uk/products/ender-...
Once this is installed and you add G29 to your gcode it will do a multiprobe scan of your bed and then move the Z up and down as it is printing to allow for it not being level.
You will need to run wiring to your motherboard and update the firmware.
You still need to keep an eye on your bed level, as even though the probe can compensate for it being out of level, its still better to keep checking.
Some people take the springs of the bed and replace with a spacer.
Probably the most common is the BL Touch probe, but be aware that there are many Chinese clones around usually called 3D Touch.
Creality do there own version called the CR Touch. https://www.crealityofficial.co.uk/products/ender-...
Once this is installed and you add G29 to your gcode it will do a multiprobe scan of your bed and then move the Z up and down as it is printing to allow for it not being level.
You will need to run wiring to your motherboard and update the firmware.
You still need to keep an eye on your bed level, as even though the probe can compensate for it being out of level, its still better to keep checking.
Some people take the springs of the bed and replace with a spacer.
Me again. I've printed some panels to accept some switches. These aren't my designs. I bought the same sized switches as the chap whose design I used but they don't fit.
Any ideas how to widen them? Assume I don't have a great deal of wall to eat into. Wonder if a little mini dremel might work?
I have the Fusion360 files so can adjust and re print. Just trying to avoid that as they take about 7 hours each to print and I have 5 of them.
Any ideas how to widen them? Assume I don't have a great deal of wall to eat into. Wonder if a little mini dremel might work?
I have the Fusion360 files so can adjust and re print. Just trying to avoid that as they take about 7 hours each to print and I have 5 of them.
I don't have a 3D printer (would love one) but I am looking to get a new top housing 3D printed for my coffee machine.
I would like it in blank simple matt smooth plastic, there are 11 parts to be printed, all of the stl/3D files are here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5236286/files
Would anyone like to offer the service of printing these for a fee? If so please feel free to drop me a message
I am in Scotland to help when factoring in postage. Thanks
I would like it in blank simple matt smooth plastic, there are 11 parts to be printed, all of the stl/3D files are here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5236286/files
Would anyone like to offer the service of printing these for a fee? If so please feel free to drop me a message
I am in Scotland to help when factoring in postage. Thanks
That'll be best printed using a FDM machine, likely with ABS to account for the machine getting hot/warm.
I'm not setup for ABS, but looks a pretty straightforward piece to get done.
One thing, it'll never be perfectly smooth. As per the pics in the thingiverse link, there will be print lines/marks on the surface. It can be sanded, but then it'll need painting.
That might be the best bet if you want it to look sleek and smooth on top of your machine.
I'm not setup for ABS, but looks a pretty straightforward piece to get done.
One thing, it'll never be perfectly smooth. As per the pics in the thingiverse link, there will be print lines/marks on the surface. It can be sanded, but then it'll need painting.
That might be the best bet if you want it to look sleek and smooth on top of your machine.
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