What torch would you recommend?

[Waspy1]

tenohfive said:

I've just remembered that I've got a 6D knocking about somewhere. I've had a look on those forums and there is plenty of info but it's all pretty technical and over my head, so I can't find a list of parts in laymans terms (or exact part numbers that I can google.) I've done a fair bit of googling but with no joy.

Anyone able to point me in the right direction?

The problem with building a ROP is that it a fairly costly: new glass lens, new metal reflector, new bulbs, new batteries and charger.

Also, it is a hotwire so runtime is only about 30 minutes.

Also, the bulbs don't last very long and you have to buy them from them States in packs of two, one of which is low output (which you end up throwing away).

Much easier to do a simple LED bulb conversion as mentioned above.

If you really do want to build a ROP then this sub-forum has many posts on how to go about it: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.p...

[tenohfive]

I am taken by the ROP idea - now that I've found the right part of the forum/threads (cheers for that) it's all starting to make sense. Whilst a 6D ROP isn't practical for camping/running/round the house use, for work use it could be very useful. Having lots of throw for searching large open areas over short periods would be very handy. It does seem to work out quite pricey though:

Pelican Big D 3854 bulb: £10 delivered.
Camless M2 LOP reflector: £17 + shipping from US
Borofloat 52.1mm x 2mm lens: £4 + shipping from US
I'm pretty sure I've already got 6 NiMH D cells, but long term I'd have to think about 10000mah D cells - that'd be another £30.

Any idea how much of an improvement in throw I'd get going with the full ROP route over the bulb replacement you linked above?

[Mars]

^^^ Massively.

Mine was so powerful, you could set light to paper from ~10" away.

But you need to do more than upgrade the lens and reflector, and replace the bulb. You need to connect the top of the tail-cap-spring to the bottom (solder a piece of earth strap to bridge the pair) to reduce resistance - and in fact if you can actually somehow solder it to the tail-cap itself, that would be better. And really you need NiNH batteries because, although they are 0.3v lower than traditional Duracells, their internal resistance is much lower so they will deliver far more current, offsetting the lower voltage.

Also, NiMH batteries retain their grunt for longer. Duracells tend to drop-off quite quickly after first use.

Then, once you've done all that, the switch becomes a weak link. Mine has now melted. Theoretically you need a PWM switch which someone on candlepowerforums has started making... but they're not cheap. I think it's worth it though because it offers a soft start which protects the bulb (which you are overdriving - the Pelican is a 6v overhead projector bulb which you are putting 6x1.2v=7.2v or 6x1.5v=9v through) and a low/high setting (possibly a strobe too - can't recall).

Anyway, it's a fun project but it can soon cost more than a decent HID light. The batteries and charger being the highest outlay - fortunately I could justify that because I needed them for another project anyway.

[tenohfive]

Ah.

I can't solder anything, and I had heard about a switch melting but thought it was a one off. Since I don't have the skills to go down that route I'll settle for a simple bulb upgrade. I don't suppose any other upgrades on a drop in level would make an improvement - reflector etc?

[Mars]

The problem with the bulb upgrade alone (assuming you use the Pelican) is that it melts the reflector and the lens, so they are necessary too. You will notice a significant difference with just these but normal batteries won't last long... about half an hour I'd guess.

A Kryptonite bulb upgrade isn't worth your time, let alone your money.

I'd start with the Pelican, boro lens and ali reflector, and see how the experience grips you. I probably would have gone for the full pack of upgrades including the PWN switch if I hadn't temporarily used a set of Duracells, then forgot I'd put them into the Mag and left them there long enough for them to leak and ruin the anodizing. Although I cleaned it out, I lost interest thereafter.

[tenohfive]

When I said bulb upgrade, I meant the one that Waspy linked (rather than the pelican one - I know that would melt a plastic lens.)
http://www.thetorchsite.co.uk/TTS_3_Watt_Cree_Torc...

I don't really have the time, knowledge or dexterity to go for an upgrade that could mean replacing switches etc - and as it would be for use at work I'd rather not have it break on me.

I think it's perhaps a 'one day' project when I've got a few quid more going spare and the time to follow it through, but for now I'm willing to give a cheap and cheerful upgrade a go.

[magpie215]

tenohfive said:

Ah.

I can't solder anything, and I had heard about a switch melting but thought it was a one off. Since I don't have the skills to go down that route I'll settle for a simple bulb upgrade. I don't suppose any other upgrades on a drop in level would make an improvement - reflector etc?

The low power pelican bulb is a good upgrade in its own right apparently you can get away with running that bulb with the stock reflector and lens.

My particular ROP is a four D cell mag,It is running a glass lens LOP reflector pelican high power bulb and a custom battery pack consisting of 5X 1/2 D cells so not overdriving the bulb too much.....It has a good runtime and is a MASSIVE improvement over a standard 4 cell mag.

If you wanted the tailcap spring soldering with a copper earth I could do that for you no problem.

[Waspy1]

tenohfive said:

When I said bulb upgrade, I meant the one that Waspy linked (rather than the pelican one - I know that would melt a plastic lens.)
http://www.thetorchsite.co.uk/TTS_3_Watt_Cree_Torc...

I don't really have the time, knowledge or dexterity to go for an upgrade that could mean replacing switches etc - and as it would be for use at work I'd rather not have it break on me.

I think it's perhaps a 'one day' project when I've got a few quid more going spare and the time to follow it through, but for now I'm willing to give a cheap and cheerful upgrade a go.

ROP building is really for enthusiasts with a good knowledge of the subject and good set of tools.

If you have none of these (and why should you?) you could go for the LED bulb upgrade I linked to as starting point.

If you like that and want to go further, there are custom Maglite modders on CPF who will sell you a brand new, modded Maglite putting out a huge amount of light and throw.

Found on this sub-forum: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forumdisplay.p...

Jayrob's lights are nice: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php...

Or you could just go for a new, modern flashlight like a Fenix TK41: http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/fenix/fenix-tk41.htm...

I can understand why the ROP builders on here want to encourage you to buy a soldering iron (they are enthusiasts after all) but I don't get the feeling you want to go down that route.

You could also have a look in the CPF Marketplace (for some reason this forum requires a new log-on to acesss it). http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/forum.php

[tenohfive]

Thanks for the advice.

Thinking about it, I may have been getting a bit carried away - I fancy a project but I'm also aware of my limitations. I do like the idea of getting into it properly and learning from experience but I suspect it'll prove more costly and time consuming than I first thought.

How much (if at all) stronger would the throw be on a Mag 6D with either the Cree bulb linked above over an LED Lenser T7? And has anyone else heard about using the Pelican 3854 Low bulb with stock reflector and lens - is that worth considering? Some brief digging shows it throwing out 550-610 bulb lumens - which still seems like a lot.

[Waspy1]

tenohfive said:

Thanks for the advice.

Thinking about it, I may have been getting a bit carried away - I fancy a project but I'm also aware of my limitations. I do like the idea of getting into it properly and learning from experience but I suspect it'll prove more costly and time consuming than I first thought.

How much (if at all) stronger would the throw be on a Mag 6D with either the Cree bulb linked above over an LED Lenser T7? And has anyone else heard about using the Pelican 3854 Low bulb with stock reflector and lens - is that worth considering? Some brief digging shows it throwing out 550-610 bulb lumens - which still seems like a lot.

The LED Lenser throws very far because it has an adjustable focus and it would throw farther than a Maglite, this costs in less spill (surrounding light) but nevertheless the LED lensers are great fun for throwing a shaft of light a long way.

You could try the Pelican low bulb what have you got to use? apart from money

I built a 2D ROP out of curiosity and the light is a nice warm colour but the short runtime always has me reaching for my LED (I work night shifts).

If you like the idea of a light with an adjustable focus that throws you could try one of these for $9.69, it works much better (like twice the light) with a Li-ion 14500 battery (AA size):

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/torch-light-c78-flood...



LED Lenser uses the same technology but are much better quality.

[magpie215]

Waspy1 said:

I built a 2D ROP

Waspy what are you powering the 2D with??

[Waspy1]

magpie215 said:

Waspy what are you powering the 2D with??

Two IMR 18650s

http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/batteries/aw-imr1865...

And one of these kits (2D to 2x18650) to make them fit:

http://www.thetorchsite.co.uk/2D_to_18650_cell_con...

[magpie215]

Waspy1 said:

Two IMR 18650s

http://www.flashaholics.co.uk/batteries/aw-imr1865...

And one of these kits (2D to 2x18650) to make them fit:

http://www.thetorchsite.co.uk/2D_to_18650_cell_con...

thanks handy size package lots of throw I like it :-)

[tenohfive]

Waspy1 said:

(I work night shifts).

Likewise, hence the speculation about something for searching big open areas at night.

Waspy1 said:

If you like the idea of a light with an adjustable focus that throws you could try one of these for $9.69, it works much better (like twice the light) with a Li-ion 14500 battery (AA size):

http://www.dealextreme.com/p/torch-light-c78-flood...

If it won't out throw the Lenser then there's not alot of point - although I have ordered a $10 torch from dealextreme for round the house use to replace the ebay specials currently in use.

Given it's a tenner to get the Pelican Low bulb I am tempted to give it a punt - I like to have a backup for the Lenser at work.

[GingerWizard]

I like this thread..... I am now off to dig out the soldering iron and my old old mag casing.....

[Mars]

tenohfive said:

Given it's a tenner to get the Pelican Low bulb I am tempted to give it a punt - I like to have a backup for the Lenser at work.

In the pack you get one high and one low bulb. I appear to have a couple of low bulbs left over from my purchasing. I'd swap two lows for a high if anyone was interested.

[Waspy1]

tenohfive said:

Given it's a tenner to get the Pelican Low bulb I am tempted to give it a punt - I like to have a backup for the Lenser at work.

I have a spare Pelican low bulb if you want it....but of course you will always want the brighter option

If you are interested in how I built a 2D ROP without any soldering.....

Shopping list:

One second-hand 2D Maglite from eBay

One pack of Pelican bulbs (Pelican Big D Rechargeable Lamp Set FL-3854) from lighthound.com

One glass lens from lighthound.com

One aluminium Maglite reflector from kaidomain.com

Two AW IMR 18650 batteries from flashaholics.co.uk (you also need a charger)

One Oscar Delta 2D to 2x18650s kit from thetorchsite.co.uk

[tenohfive]

At the moment I think I'm going to order the pack of both Peli bulbs so that I can chuck the low in there straight away and so I've got a high ready to go if I do decide to try the ROP route. I'm tempted to give it a go next month as if the worst comes to worse and I melt switches etc I'm sure I'd be able to find someone interested in buying the lens/reflector/bulbs etc. I'm thinking that of the two Mag's (3 & 6D) I'd be better off trying the ROP in the 3D as there's less power and less liklihood of something melting?

What are peoples thoughts on the reflector? I read on CPF a suggestion that LOP is a good mix of throw and reduced artifact (giving the impression of more throw) - any other thoughts?

[Mars]

You won't melt the switch until you have soldered the tailcap spring AND stuck in 6x NiMH batteries. Normal Duracells just don't flow enough current.

[rhinochopig]

The other option to the ROP is to simply buy a terralux plug in unit which offers virtually the same throw as a Lenser P14 but with a much much better spill. It will also run for hours on NiMH D cells. I had one of these before swapping to lensers.

It won't be anywhere near as bright as the ROP, but you can do the mod in 30 seconds and the run-time will be better.

One thing to consider with torches is that if you are using rechargeables - unless you have eneloop type cells - they lose charge at a horrendous rate. This means that you need to keep the cells topped up, as if you don't, something like a ROP which has been sat in the draw for a couple of months will run for minutes when you come to need it. Bright as the ROPs are, they really are only a 'hey chaps, have you seen how bright this thing is' type torch. An LED maglite with normal cells will be of far more practical use in the long run.

If you want a 'hey chaps, have you seen how bright this thing is' toy buy a laser