The 3D Printer Thread

[eharding]

Norfolk B-roads said:

Has anyone been through this?

I'd say that unless you've got an incredibly well dialed-in FDM machine, and are printing in materials significantly more robust than PLA, then trying to print your own threaded fasteners is going to be a frustrating and disappointing effort.

You'll note that the pioneers of FDM, the RepRap project, whilst trying to make as much of their designs self-replicating (I printed the parts for my Huxley on my RepRapPro Mendel), they always accepted that various 'vitamins' - requirements that can't be produced by the body itself - were needed and hence depended heavily on threaded metal fasteners of various sizes.

I use OpenSCAD for my designs, so parametric tweaking of particular parts isn't an issue, and used to use various libraries to generate captive nut voids and fit metal parts in those to provide a reliable threaded connection, but of late have started using threaded metal inserts like these:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-X-M3-3mm-M3-0-5-Bras...

You can either use heat or a very small amount of superglue to fix them into your 3d printed parts (initially, a friction fit might seem to suffice but I found in cases where the parts are being regularly disconnected and reconnected fretting can occur - adhesive or heat stops this).

Easy, cheap, and means you can get on with the actual function of the design rather than faffing about trying to print threaded parts.

Edited by eharding on Thursday 30th January 11:07

[Accelebrate]

roboxm3 said:

That looks absolutely spot on!!

The fragile mounts at the top, are they just weak laterally, as opposed to linearly i.e. sideways where it shouldn't get much force through it as opposed to down the line where it'll get all of the acceleration and braking force?

Exactly, front to back they should be fine. They're probably at their most vulnerable when attaching or removing a GoPro. I'd maybe consider running some sort of secondary tether to your camera.

I had a go at printing the same design with PETG (similar to Coke bottle plastic) but it had a few issues during the print and the camera tabs didn't seem to be any stronger so I binned that one. I popped two prints with the 'Carbon Fibre' PLA and my original PLA print in the post to you this afternoon

[mph999]

InitialDave said:

I'd say Autodesk Fusion 360 is the best free CAD programme for designing stuff to be 3D printed.

Yes, I agree - Fusion360 seems to be the software of choice for those seriously into printing. Very generously, Autodesk allow it free for home use considering it is something like £800 /year if you are using it commercially.. You need a ‘slicer’ - software that takes the model from Fusion360 and converts it into commands the printer understands. Pretty good free software is available - Cura is a popular free one which is meant to be very good. I use Simplify3D which is paid.

[mph999]

Atomic GTI said:

where are people sourcing filament from these days?

I used to be pleased with the stuff rigid ink sold but they are NLA.

Depends what type I’m using

TPU filament
https://www.sainsmart.com/collections/tpu-filament

PET filament
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printing-materia...

I find Comgrow 3D Printer PLA Filament from Amazon is quite good, but the PLA stuff from Prusa is excellent.

I tried a few different PET brands and had a lot of trouble getting it to stick on my Ender 3 Pro, the rs-online does, but is quite expensive. IT works brilliantly on my Prusa with the textured bed - not tried it on the smooth sheet but my buddy uses it so I suspect it will be fine.

[Ambleton]

I've done quite a few bits and bobs on my Prusa.

I couldn't find a cheap range of monitor stands that looked sturdy and half reasonable. I've probably spent a few hours looking.

I need two of the same height (120mm) that look similar. One wide enough so I could put my laptop underneath (with the lid closed). And allow for cables. A second one for my second monitor that only needs to be the same size (or a little larger) as the stand.

I've just made the legs in CAD to take an 18mm bit of ply with some M8 button heads and captive nuts to secure together. Only took about 15mins to smash together

Currently being printed so will post a picture tomorrow.

Obviously the size is totally dependent on the size of timber, same legs.

[Ambleton]

Heres another little thing I've printed for my parents.

They use a little teapot every day. My mum dropped the lid the other week and it obliterated into a thousand pieces.

They have continued to use the teapot without the lid as it pours well (it annoys me how many teapots are available that dribble when you pour), and is a perfect size for the two of them.

I designed a new lid for them and printed it off In E3D Edge (a PETG based filament). I was slightly concerned about the heat, so upped the wall thicknesses and infill. Printed at 0.15layer height.

Tested by pouring boiling water over from the kettle and I'd didnt seem to soften and wouldnt mark with my fingernail so guess it's up to the job.







My dad has just sent me another one to make a lid for... (facepalm)



Might have fun with this one and to a dogs head or something

[Sway]

Really impressive!

I have absolutely zero computer based design skills, so have no hope of designing my own bits.

[Ambleton]

I do it all day every day for my job so it's no issue for me. That's where most people get stuck with 3d printing. They have no access to decent design software.

I've designed and printed loads of brackets and stuff for my project car.

The most complex being this little curved access panel with drain channel, lid, swan neck hidden hinges and key lock. I have yet to skin it in aluminium and mount it in my bodywork. I have allowed for a rubber seal. I have heated up and inserted bronze bushes and shoulder bolts for the hinges and allowed for a gas strut fixing should I want to add that at a later date.







I had to print it in 8 bits and bond together afterwards. Again in PETG

[Ambleton]

I changed the design slightly as it was quicker to print without the hole and I changed the roads for chamfers as they have more purpose and are more printer friendly.

This is my second, narrower one.

[Captain Obvious]

Nexus Icon said:

I can count the number of homers I've made on one hand.

...fleshlight?

Edited by Captain Obvious on Monday 2nd March 23:46

[mph999]

Made a phone case over the weekend, good couple of hours to measure up and draw (yes, I know I’m slow) and 7 hours to print.

[Dave.]

I'm a dab hand at AutoCAD, but moved to Revit a couple of years ago...

I'd like to keep my skills sharp, so if any of you need something knocking up, let me know and I'll do it in my dinner hour.

[Miserablegit]

Late to this thread.

I'm a complete novice and bought a Da Vinci Mini a few years ago to see what it was all about. It hasn't let me down yet but I know a number of people don't like to be tied into using the manufacturer's own filament.

I haven't got round to designing anything myself but have found incredibly useful designs put online by very generous folk.

I've printed a lot of useless tat but the useful stuff has been:
1. Wall mounts for Oculus Rift sensors
2. Headphone holders
3. Rack mounts for Behringer Model D and Neutron
4. Small supports for wall mounted meter bridge
5. Replacement chicken head for headphone amp
6. Raspberry pi cases/ PC mountings
7. Stand for Hive Thermostat

It's great when working on something and thinking, "Oh, I just need a ..."- A quick google, the stl files are downloaded and an hour or so later (or a few) the item is there.

[classicaholic]

I am looking at getting a few parts printed, can someone please let me know what sort of accuracy can I expect on a simple bush 75mm OD 60mm Id 25 thick from a nylon or similar plastic. Anyone know who can do them or a relatively low cost machine.
Thanks

[Ambleton]

More info required!

Load bearing? Needs to rotate or slide? Temp requirements? Chemical? Indoor/outdoor?

[ARHarh]

classicaholic said:

I am looking at getting a few parts printed, can someone please let me know what sort of accuracy can I expect on a simple bush 75mm OD 60mm Id 25 thick from a nylon or similar plastic. Anyone know who can do them or a relatively low cost machine.
Thanks

I feel getting a bush machined will be as cheap as far longer lasting, especially if you can use stock sizes and not be too fusy about external finish.

[Russ35]

Nice to see Prusa Printers helping out the medical profession in the fight against CORVID-19

https://blog.prusaprinters.org/from-design-to-mass...

[Ambleton]

Well since I'm now WFH my monitor stand/riser is now the wrong height as my desk at home is taller than my desk on site.

In order to overcome this I was just going to print some shorter legs of the same design, but then thought some adjustable ones would be cool. I did toy about with a car scissor lift sort of arrangement but decided on a simple axle stand design instead.... we're all car nerds here right?

I printed one to test overnight and it needs a little tweaking (pin is a bit tight), but generally pretty happy and the spring retention works a treat.

I've made a slot for an M6 nut for afixing the top...

[_Rich_]

Something maybe of interest. So work is slowing down due to obvious reasons. Theres been a call for help with valve components for ventilators (and actual ventilators but I'm not clever enough to do that). At the minute just a test piece, will be adjusting the micron settings, this is currently 100 microns but will drop down to around to 50 and also order in a biocompatible resin.




This is a different component, on a different printer, this printer is much slower so haven't seen the finished product . I'll have a look on Monday to see if its worked.



I'm really chuffed with how the finished print came out, it took three attempts to get it to where it is now and took about 45minutes to print.

Also to add this isn't my idea, the stl files came from an Italian guy trying to help his country and now we as a country are trying to help where possible.

[ReverendCounter]

_Rich_ do you think it's possible to get good results from a Prusa MK3S when using an appropriate filament like nylon?