oil again ??? is it too low
Discussion
Don't worry. As long as you actually have oil pressure at idle, even if it is only 10 psi it is OK, (although that would be very unusual!)
Far more important is oil pressure when you are running at speed. This is typically 45 to 50 psi when hot. Any dips here should be viewed with caution.
This was told to me by a Ford technician and was backed up by an independent mechanic friend of mine.
For the record, mine runs around 23 - 26 idle (depending upon temperature) and 45 - 55 at speed and has done this since I bought the car in 1996.
(P.S. A mechanic at a well established TVR dealer told me that the gauges are not that accurate and are intended to be more of an indicator of pressure).
>> Edited by Paceracing on Thursday 9th May 09:00
Far more important is oil pressure when you are running at speed. This is typically 45 to 50 psi when hot. Any dips here should be viewed with caution.
This was told to me by a Ford technician and was backed up by an independent mechanic friend of mine.
For the record, mine runs around 23 - 26 idle (depending upon temperature) and 45 - 55 at speed and has done this since I bought the car in 1996.
(P.S. A mechanic at a well established TVR dealer told me that the gauges are not that accurate and are intended to be more of an indicator of pressure).
>> Edited by Paceracing on Thursday 9th May 09:00
Steve Heath's "bible" quotes higher minimum oil pressures at low engine speeds than the oil pressures stated in Haynes manuals for Granada's & Sierra's using the same 2.9 engine, which is slightly confusing. Did Ford engines destined for TVR's have uprated oil pumps? I very much doubt it.
The variance in oil pressure that you quote is very similar to my own S3. It only becomes an issue on very hot days (or after prolonged high speed driving perhaps), when you may notice the oil pressure dropping quite low at idle.
Any engine will sound mechanically noisier under hot conditions (tappet rattles, big end & little end rattles, crank rattles - the amount of noise will depend on the general condition of the engine)
I have improved matters by using a high quality motor oil (currently Mobil) Such oils retain there viscosity better at higher temperatures. They are however expensive - typically £30 for 4 litres. But the way I look at it, it is a lot cheaper than having to rebuild an engine.
The variance in oil pressure that you quote is very similar to my own S3. It only becomes an issue on very hot days (or after prolonged high speed driving perhaps), when you may notice the oil pressure dropping quite low at idle.
Any engine will sound mechanically noisier under hot conditions (tappet rattles, big end & little end rattles, crank rattles - the amount of noise will depend on the general condition of the engine)
I have improved matters by using a high quality motor oil (currently Mobil) Such oils retain there viscosity better at higher temperatures. They are however expensive - typically £30 for 4 litres. But the way I look at it, it is a lot cheaper than having to rebuild an engine.
I hope you aren't using Mobil 1 in a Ford 2.9 V6! The design of these engines dates back to the 1960's and even the latest incarnation was way back in the 1980's before high tech thin oils had been invented.
The best oils for these engines are high quality multigrades, something like a 20/50 which is quite good for high temperatures.
I personally use Valvoline Racing oil due to the fact that is was designed for Ford engines used under extreme conditions. There are no additives in this oil and so it will need changing more frequently, but if it is good enough for Colin McRae, it's good enough for me!
Jas.
The best oils for these engines are high quality multigrades, something like a 20/50 which is quite good for high temperatures.
I personally use Valvoline Racing oil due to the fact that is was designed for Ford engines used under extreme conditions. There are no additives in this oil and so it will need changing more frequently, but if it is good enough for Colin McRae, it's good enough for me!
Jas.
quote:
yes i am but its due an oil change
Yes but so do a lot of people. My Sierra and Granada did and they clocked up 100k miles each with nothing done to the engine.
If I hear the comment that such a such an engine was designed in the Stone Age and that it should be using crushed carbon as a lubricant I will scream! On that basis, nearly all modern cars should be running Duckhams Green or plain Castrol because their engines can all trace the design back many years. It is very much an over simplification.
The biggest problem facing TVR engines is heat degredation and that can kill an oil pretty quickly. So a synthetic oil is probably going to be a better bet than a mineral one which sludges when it gets hot.
The question is whether a thinner synthetic will offer more protection than a sludged mineral? I don't know but what is important is to check the oil levels, chanage it regularly and don't overrev the engine when it is cold. Not doing these will cause far more damage than anything else. If you use a mineral or semi sythn oil, consider changing it more often and that will prevent sludging happening.
BTW are you sure C.McCrae uses it? I know he has the sticker on his car but it would not be the first time that car uses a different product to that of a sponsor
Steve
quote:
I hope you aren't using Mobil 1 in a Ford 2.9 V6!
Should I be concerned using Millers XFS Full Synthetic 5W-40 ???? I've noticed the Oil Pressure is more constant just around the 50 mark on running at any revs... it used to go much higher on its last oil..
Cheers,
Matt.
>> Edited by M@H on Friday 10th May 14:39
Th Valley recommended / used Mobil 1 in by V6 when I had it, they should know about it.
I agree with Steve re the view on old design / old oil. If synthetic was around in those days they would have used it.
Perhaps it was all that Duckhams that kept my Dad's Marina Estate so quiet (not).
I agree with Steve re the view on old design / old oil. If synthetic was around in those days they would have used it.
Perhaps it was all that Duckhams that kept my Dad's Marina Estate so quiet (not).
quote:
Should I be concerned using Millers XFS Full Synthetic 5W-40 ????
How long has the oil been in the car? 12... 24 ... 30 minutes? If it has you need to move quickly as the additives react with the additives that make leaded petrol unleaded and these can cause gremlins which will dissolve the piston rings and that is why the engine runs smoother and has better fuel economy because there is less friction. However the gremlins can collect and eventually they spread and cause the GRP body to crack, the tyres to puncture and the final problem... the radio will not get any reception.
The only course of action is to drain the oil but be careful that you don't spill any and transfer the gremlins to the garage door or anything else and replace it with Whale Blubber Oil which is the best thing to use as it was the stuff that Otto Daimler used and we all know that all engines were based on this design and therefore this is undoubtedly the best stuff to use. The fact that with it there have been no reports of cam wear yet with all this modern stuff you get piston slap, cam wear and so on which categorically proves that using anything other than Whale Blubber Oil is the wrong stuff.
Is it a good quality oil? Yes
Is it going to do any damage? I doubt it providing it is changed regularly etc etc.
Would I worry no.
Would I use Whale Blubber Oil? No.
Steve
quote:
How long has the oil been in the car? 12... 24 ... 30 minutes? If it has you need to move quickly as the additives react with the additives that make leaded petrol unleaded and these can cause gremlins which will dissolve the piston rings and that is why the engine runs smoother and has better fuel economy because there is less friction. However the gremlins can collect and eventually they spread and cause the GRP body to crack, the tyres to puncture and the final problem... the radio will not get any reception.
The only course of action is to drain the oil but be careful that you don't spill any and transfer the gremlins to the garage door or anything else and replace it with Whale Blubber Oil which is the best thing to use as it was the stuff that Otto Daimler used and we all know that all engines were based on this design and therefore this is undoubtedly the best stuff to use. The fact that with it there have been no reports of cam wear yet with all this modern stuff you get piston slap, cam wear and so on which categorically proves that using anything other than Whale Blubber Oil is the wrong stuff.
I knew the S Bible V3 would be worth the wait. Thanks for the preview Steve.
Millers is supposed to be the Gold Standard for older engine designs, although I have never used it.
I use 20/50 Valvoline Racing Oil since that has been recommended to me by at least two different race engine builders. I drive my car fairly hard after it has warmed up. Personally I would never put a fully synthetic oil in my S2, especially Mobil 1. That is just my personal opinion based upon information I have gained from people who know far more about engines and oils than I will ever know. Just pootling around in the Tiv and not unduely over stressing the engine, oils like Castrol GTX Magnatec should do fine!
Jas.
I use 20/50 Valvoline Racing Oil since that has been recommended to me by at least two different race engine builders. I drive my car fairly hard after it has warmed up. Personally I would never put a fully synthetic oil in my S2, especially Mobil 1. That is just my personal opinion based upon information I have gained from people who know far more about engines and oils than I will ever know. Just pootling around in the Tiv and not unduely over stressing the engine, oils like Castrol GTX Magnatec should do fine!
Jas.
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