13 months later rust 'bubbles 'reappear?
Discussion
some advice it you can please?
approx 13 months ago i noticed some rust 'bubbles' about 3" x 1/4" at the bottom of the upper tailgate of my Range Rover
took it to the local body shop i've used for my and family cars for some years and got it 'sorted'
in the last couple of days it has reappeared literally overnight - exactly the same area
have rung said bodyshop and they are inspected weds am
would it be reasonable to expect them to correct the work without costs to me?
approx 13 months ago i noticed some rust 'bubbles' about 3" x 1/4" at the bottom of the upper tailgate of my Range Rover
took it to the local body shop i've used for my and family cars for some years and got it 'sorted'
in the last couple of days it has reappeared literally overnight - exactly the same area
have rung said bodyshop and they are inspected weds am
would it be reasonable to expect them to correct the work without costs to me?
andye30m3 said:
I'm no expect but I guess a lot will depend on what you originally asked them to do and paid.
I wouldn't be surprised if a quick job of grinding down the rust locally and repainting didn't last much longer than a year.
i asked for their opinion - said as it was only 'surface' rust it was best to go back to bare metal and then re prime/spray etcI wouldn't be surprised if a quick job of grinding down the rust locally and repainting didn't last much longer than a year.
its a 2005 car not one of the P38's - lol!
hman said:
Unless you cure the cause of the rust it will keep coming back.
Typically cutting out rotten and welding in new plus stemming the source of moisture will result in long term improvements.
Doubt they'll pay after a year really.
opinion of body shop was that it was caused by a 'chip' on the edge of the tailgate and had allowed moisture to get underneath causing the 'bubbles' - they said it was NOT coming from 'inside'?Typically cutting out rotten and welding in new plus stemming the source of moisture will result in long term improvements.
Doubt they'll pay after a year really.
I'd say they either didnt remove enough rust to prevent oxidisation to occur under the paint (doesnt need external oxygen once the oxidsation has started) or they didnt seal the area properly to prevent moisture creeping back in.
Either way rust is a bh to get rid of once it occurs- typically replacement of the panel (or section of panel) is the only long term cure.
Either way rust is a bh to get rid of once it occurs- typically replacement of the panel (or section of panel) is the only long term cure.
Not many places offer much warranty/guarantee on the longevity of a repairs to rusty panels, they will have sanded the corrosion back and filled it, to properly repair the rust you need to cut it our and start welding but even then it is not a perfect fix!
Chances are they wont repair it for free!
Chances are they wont repair it for free!
thanks for your comments
took it to the bodyshop this morning and was told 'it was a cheap job what do you expect?'!!
at no time was i told it was a cheap job nor did i ask for a cheap job - i asked them what needed to be done!
over the last 5+ years they have had quite a lot of work from family and friends but no more
the standard has been falling and one of their main commercial customers is having to return a high percentage of work that is unfit
fortunately one of their employees walked out when told to do what he considered was not a 'proper job' and has set up his own business round the corner and is getting very good recommendations so will go and see him
took it to the bodyshop this morning and was told 'it was a cheap job what do you expect?'!!
at no time was i told it was a cheap job nor did i ask for a cheap job - i asked them what needed to be done!
over the last 5+ years they have had quite a lot of work from family and friends but no more
the standard has been falling and one of their main commercial customers is having to return a high percentage of work that is unfit
fortunately one of their employees walked out when told to do what he considered was not a 'proper job' and has set up his own business round the corner and is getting very good recommendations so will go and see him
hman said:
but seriously buy a new panel if you dont want the rust to come back..
will do if necessary (but that means an entire upper tailgate - bit like taking a shotgun to kill a mouse?) but as explained its very small - just measured it - 3" long by 1/8" 'high' - pin head bubblesnothing on the underside so it is surface rust
been reading up on Rust Bullet - got to be worth a shot before buying a new upper tailgate
Edited by grand cherokee on Wednesday 25th July 11:14
find out how much a tail gate is, if you use rusty bullethole or whatever miracle rust cure there is now- then you'll be into 3 resprays and a new tail gate rather than 2 resprays and a new tailgate.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Rust bullet works, I use it myself about 3 times a month.
You can't really out new metal into the tailgat as its aluminum and a pita to weld.
Also the weld becomes a magnet for the rust to start so all you do is move the problem.
I would give a treatment one go at least as a tailgate won't be cheap.
You can't really out new metal into the tailgat as its aluminum and a pita to weld.
Also the weld becomes a magnet for the rust to start so all you do is move the problem.
I would give a treatment one go at least as a tailgate won't be cheap.
V8covin said:
If it's bubbling there's a high chance you have a pinhole in the panel.If that's the case no amount of "miracle rust converter" will work.
You need to get to the back of the metal to see the extent of the damage.If it's clean and corrosion free then it should be salvageable
this could be where its coming from, micro pores draw moisture from the back of the panel not the front, if its not treated at the same time then, over time the repair will eventually fail.You need to get to the back of the metal to see the extent of the damage.If it's clean and corrosion free then it should be salvageable
I take it the car was out of manufacturers anti-corrosion warranty?
thanks guys for all your help/advice
been to see i guy i know who is now 'on his own' - basically going to strip all affected areas back to bare metal and 'treat' including a full upper tailgate respray inside and out - said if the rust comes back inside three years he will redo free of charge - cost £90
the only downside is he does not want to mask the RANGE ROVER lettering to avoid 'ghosting' around said letters - so will have to be removed and replaced - probably cost more than the job?
been to see i guy i know who is now 'on his own' - basically going to strip all affected areas back to bare metal and 'treat' including a full upper tailgate respray inside and out - said if the rust comes back inside three years he will redo free of charge - cost £90
the only downside is he does not want to mask the RANGE ROVER lettering to avoid 'ghosting' around said letters - so will have to be removed and replaced - probably cost more than the job?
grand cherokee said:
thanks guys for all your help/advice
been to see i guy i know who is now 'on his own' - basically going to strip all affected areas back to bare metal and 'treat' including a full upper tailgate respray inside and out - said if the rust comes back inside three years he will redo free of charge - cost £90
the only downside is he does not want to mask the RANGE ROVER lettering to avoid 'ghosting' around said letters - so will have to be removed and replaced - probably cost more than the job?
Sounds very reasonable of him!been to see i guy i know who is now 'on his own' - basically going to strip all affected areas back to bare metal and 'treat' including a full upper tailgate respray inside and out - said if the rust comes back inside three years he will redo free of charge - cost £90
the only downside is he does not want to mask the RANGE ROVER lettering to avoid 'ghosting' around said letters - so will have to be removed and replaced - probably cost more than the job?
To be honest you are better off having the lettering removed otherwise you will end up with a lacquer edge around them, shouldnt imagine you will need to buy new badges though, they come off very easily with a bit of heat! Get yourself some of the 3M double sided tape (remember to remove the old tape from the badges) and spend a bit of time putting the badges back on. Or you could leave them off, some cars look better debadged, down to personal taste though I suppose
7even said:
that really makes me sad to read of someone de-valueing the trade that much.
wtf are you on about?and what do you do to put 'bread on the table'?
in the east midlands and many other areas north of Watford Gap times are hard!
people in the south have got the Olympics - others have to work for a living - try it some time!
you obviously have never run a business? - better something rather than nothing and as said earlier the guy has done work for me before - and yes its going to be fully invoiced etc so no claims of VAT/tax evasion
sad fricks like you really ruin the forum/trade
so i suppose from the 'tone' of your post you 'demand' say £50/60 per hour and if nobody is prepared to pay your 'rates' you would sooner sit on your ample arse and do nothing - does that sum it up?
here is a reality check - the world does NOT owe you a living - get over yourself!
Edited by grand cherokee on Thursday 26th July 14:24
JulesB said:
Sounds very reasonable of him!
To be honest you are better off having the lettering removed otherwise you will end up with a lacquer edge around them, shouldnt imagine you will need to buy new badges though, they come off very easily with a bit of heat! Get yourself some of the 3M double sided tape (remember to remove the old tape from the badges) and spend a bit of time putting the badges back on. Or you could leave them off, some cars look better debadged, down to personal taste though I suppose
thanks Jules - decided to get new 'letters' - the guy has done me a good price so only fair (quid pro quo) that i do him the same and get new letters and templateTo be honest you are better off having the lettering removed otherwise you will end up with a lacquer edge around them, shouldnt imagine you will need to buy new badges though, they come off very easily with a bit of heat! Get yourself some of the 3M double sided tape (remember to remove the old tape from the badges) and spend a bit of time putting the badges back on. Or you could leave them off, some cars look better debadged, down to personal taste though I suppose
local RR dealer has done at a very good price as well
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