Costs to get Mini through MOT...

[jimmyt]

Hi Guys,

I'm new to the Mini forum and am after some advice about a 1989 Mini Rose I bought over the weekend. I'd like to do it up before Xmas but will not have time so, depending on costs, will have to put it into a garage. Its SORN and has been off the road for a year.

Can anyone either recommend a Mini specialist in the North West (preferably Wirral) and/or give me a rough indication of what I could expect to pay for the following parts (plus obviously labour charges). Also, any good places to pick up Mini parts? Any good websites you guys can recommend?

The work is as follows:
- Inner/outer sills replacing (both sides)
- 2 floor pans replacing
- 2 A panels replacing
- 2 front wings replacing - I guess I'd need to get these sprayed too or can you order them to colour?
- Check oil leak - gaskets?
- Treat corrosion on rear subframe - replace or hammerite?
- Realign front headlamps
- Excessive wear in offside front bottom suspension joint - replace?
- Front brake pads replacing
- Investigate fault in rear service brakes
- Replace mounting for rear exhaust
- 4 new tyres

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Regards,
James

[Cooperman]

That's a lot of work and it won't be cheap (if it's done properly).
At a guess I would say that's about 30+ hours work at, say, £25 per hour, plus parts and paint. I'm not including the new rear sub-frame in that, for which, parts and labour, you should allow about £250-ish. It is never worth trying to repair a rear sub-frame and whenever you change it you normally find the rear suspension arms need re-bushing as well. At least it's easy to do whilst the frame is out.
As a guess I reckon you will be looking at around £1000 plus parts, maybe a bit more, but almost certainly not any less.
That's why many Mini people do all the work themselves, it's the only way to afford it.

[Plotloss]

Yep its not going to be cheap.

Theres about £800's worth of bodywork if done properly I reckon.

The suspension will be easy (I say that now having done it once)

The oil leak I would have thought will be from one of 3 places. The gearbox linkage seal (see Fatboy for details ) or either one of the pot joint oil seals.

Headlights are a two minute job

As there are brake and subframe issues you're best off dropping it and doing the entire back end in one go. Cheap parts, shite job. Entire new rear subframe is about £150 I think but there are issues with replacing the bearings, they need to be reamed in.

[Fatboy]

Cheers Matt

If you buy a gearbox seal anti-leak kit - make sure you get some instructions with it

[jimmyt]

Thanks for the responses,

OK, I'm going to have to rethink and do some of the work myself!!!!

I wonder what would be the least amount of work I can do to get it through its MOT, just to get it on the road. Then at least I can address the bodywork later.

The following bits were from the MOT failure sheet from June 2003 and its stood in a garage since then:

- Realign front headlamps
- Excessive wear in offside front bottom suspension joint - replace?
- Front brake pads replacing
- Investigate fault in rear service brakes
- Replace mounting for rear exhaust
- 4 new tyres

The rest of the work has been recommended but may not be necessary for an MOT - although the sills may need patching up as you can see the road underneath the carpet!

- Inner/outer sills replacing (both sides)
- 2 floor pans replacing
- 2 A panels replacing
- 2 front wings replacing - I guess I'd need to get these sprayed too or can you order them to colour?
- Check oil leak - gaskets?
- Treat corrosion on rear subframe - replace or hammerite?

What do you think? Main prob is I'm away from home until Xmas and want it at least on the road by then.

[annodomini2]

If you've not got the technical skill to do the body work, then seek professional advice, get some quotes (in writing) and see how much it would cost for just the body work as generally this is the major cost and will last longer if done correctly now.

Plus it needs to be done 1st!

the other work can be done from home depending on your mechanical skill and getting a haynes manual is an essential.

Good luck!

[jimmyt]

Thanks for that Andy,

I was reading my Haynes restoration manual last night and replacing the outer/inner sills doesn't seem too difficult. However, I've no equipment or experience of welding. Are there any good courses or should I just get a friend to teach me? Can the equipment be rented instead of purchasing - whats people's thoughts on that?

The rear subframe section looked a bit scary though! As for the other things, I'm sure I can have a crack at them. Don't fancy paying £1000...

Cheers,
James

[Plotloss]

Rear subframe is a fairly simple job fraught with annoyances...

As its not being used just for a couple of weeks before, every day squirt WD40 or PlusGas on the subframe bolts and this should maximise your chances of not ending up with a proper pain in the arse job.

[Cooperman]

Those bolts at the forward mountings on the rear sub-frame seem to almost ALWAYS shear off in the body when you try to undo them!
If you can't get the stubs out it's a real bugger of a job.