Non-yellowing gloss?
Discussion
Any suggestions for a gloss which really won't go yellow - even when they say it won't, but does?
Decorated a couple of rooms in our house back in July and noticed at the weekend that the gloss is already turning yellow. Bought Leyland Trade high gloss brilliant white as it was recommended to us, but I'm really disappointed with it.
I think it's got to do with VOCs and apparently water-based quick drying is better but thought I'd ask for some real life experiences with a decent gloss.
Cheers.
Decorated a couple of rooms in our house back in July and noticed at the weekend that the gloss is already turning yellow. Bought Leyland Trade high gloss brilliant white as it was recommended to us, but I'm really disappointed with it.
I think it's got to do with VOCs and apparently water-based quick drying is better but thought I'd ask for some real life experiences with a decent gloss.
Cheers.
This is my copy/pasted reply from a similar thread - (this thread - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a... )
My reply -
"Thought I'd add my 2p worth as I have just painted 20 interior doors!
After much deliberation which paint to use, I opted for this stuff - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Truewhite-Satin-Pai...
I was in 2 minds as I have used Wickes paint in the past and found it to be not great, but this was good to use and gave a really good finish - limited only by my DIY abilities....! Gave the doors a good sand with wet/dry paper and cleaned with sugar soap and then 2 coats over previously yellowed oil based gloss. It did need stiring often (I stirred it after each side of door) and another great tip I did is that with water based 'gloss/satin' I lightly sprayed the doors with a garden water sprayer just before I painted and it went on much better than if the door was dry. (spray setting on fine mist).
Having said all this, I did paint the bargeboards of my garage with oil based stuff a few days later and the difference in the finish and ease of use was much better with the oil based stuff! (Apparently, the oil based stuff only yellows significantly when it's NOT exposed to natural light - hence why the outside oil based gloss I painted still looked white before I painted it. The yellowing occurs indoors in areas where not much light reaches it).
Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament"
My reply -
"Thought I'd add my 2p worth as I have just painted 20 interior doors!
After much deliberation which paint to use, I opted for this stuff - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Truewhite-Satin-Pai...
I was in 2 minds as I have used Wickes paint in the past and found it to be not great, but this was good to use and gave a really good finish - limited only by my DIY abilities....! Gave the doors a good sand with wet/dry paper and cleaned with sugar soap and then 2 coats over previously yellowed oil based gloss. It did need stiring often (I stirred it after each side of door) and another great tip I did is that with water based 'gloss/satin' I lightly sprayed the doors with a garden water sprayer just before I painted and it went on much better than if the door was dry. (spray setting on fine mist).
Having said all this, I did paint the bargeboards of my garage with oil based stuff a few days later and the difference in the finish and ease of use was much better with the oil based stuff! (Apparently, the oil based stuff only yellows significantly when it's NOT exposed to natural light - hence why the outside oil based gloss I painted still looked white before I painted it. The yellowing occurs indoors in areas where not much light reaches it).
Hope this helps someone in a similar predicament"
Tried most paints in an effort to find one that doesn't yellow when it's not in direct UV and the best I've come up with so far is a paint called Bedec, made in Saffron Walden. Don't confuse it with Bedek the Israeli armaments company, bit different product range eh?
Anyway the Bedec paint seems OK after two years, yellowing a bit but not as bad as Dulux/Crown et al
Anyway the Bedec paint seems OK after two years, yellowing a bit but not as bad as Dulux/Crown et al
About three years back I had a decorator come around to paint my dining room, he asked me if I painted the woodwork in the lounge, I replied candidly yes, "so you didn't use undercoat then" how he knew this I don't know? Reckoned he could see it, looked fine to me, he told me that it was fine but it will go yellow between 6-12 months!
He was right, it did and his did'nt, he decorated the whole house in the end Maybe the undercoat is just as important as the top coat?
He was right, it did and his did'nt, he decorated the whole house in the end Maybe the undercoat is just as important as the top coat?
Lensey said:
He was right, it did and his did'nt, he decorated the whole house in the end Maybe the undercoat is just as important as the top coat?
It is. I've found that when painting with Primer, Undercoat, then Gloss, there's less yellowing. The other thing is that using Acrylic primer/undercoat is a short-cut to 'proper' primer than undercoat, but IME makes the top coat yellow.What's wrong with gloss?
As long as the prep and surface is good. And the paint applied with a good brush by a person with an eye for detail I think it can look great. Overpainted blobby dented/cracked gloss looks appalling.
Sounds like matt and satin in the home is similar to the folk who blackboard paint a sheddy old car, it's to hide all the problems.
As long as the prep and surface is good. And the paint applied with a good brush by a person with an eye for detail I think it can look great. Overpainted blobby dented/cracked gloss looks appalling.
Sounds like matt and satin in the home is similar to the folk who blackboard paint a sheddy old car, it's to hide all the problems.
onomatopoeia said:
V8RX7 said:
All the oil based gloss goes yellow - including Dulux Trade.
Mine hasn't yet, after two years and six months in a hallway with almost no natural light.I used the matching primer and gloss from the Dulux Trade range, which may have helped.
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