Dicky Battery?

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Discussion

HustleRussell

Original Poster:

24,724 posts

161 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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Is it possible for a car battery to hold proper voltage, appear to produce proper current, show up as ‘OK’ on a battery analyser and yet be faulty and fail under load?

I have a starting problem with my Caterham- it seemed a lot like the starter motor solenoid had gone intermittent, nine times out of ten it’d whirr around happily all day but not engage with the flywheel. If on the odd occasion it did engage, it would disengage again without having started the engine. I took it for refurbishment and conditioned the battery but within days the symptoms returned. I took the battery to Halfords who hooked it up to a sophisticated looking analyser and told me it was fine, I then took the starter and battery to the chap who refurbished the starter who bench tested the starter, told me it was fine and pointed the finger at the battery. He acknowledged the battery tested fine but said it was getting hotter than it should and showed me the acid bubbling in the cells.

I’m inclined to agree- once started in the morning the car will generally start well all day. If left overnight it has practically no chance of starting.

There is no parasitic drain and the earths etc all look OK- so it seems the battery is weak?

MorganP104

2,605 posts

131 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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How old is the battery? If it's getting on for 5 years old, it might just be worth replacing it.

HustleRussell

Original Poster:

24,724 posts

161 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
quotequote all
MorganP104 said:
How old is the battery? If it's getting on for 5 years old, it might just be worth replacing it.
No idea, I'd guess it’s pretty new looking at it- but they get a pretty tough life in race cars as they sit unused for weeks at a time, and often for several months during the off-season.

Yex 450

4,583 posts

221 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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My Chimaera had a similar experience a couple of years back. Battery was/is always kept on a conditioner so would always see the green light when getting car out of garage and it would start on the button every time. One weekend I was away from home for 2 days and the car struggled to start the first morning and then had no juice to start at all the second. Quick trip to Euro Car Parts and a new battery was installed with the guy in the shop telling me my battery would take a trickle charge but then not work with the alternator. I'm no expert but what he said without me prompting him held true and a few other TVR owners have had the same problem by reading threads in that section.

Hopefully a battery replacement and a good blast out to get it settled in will cure the issue for you thumbup

mikal83

5,340 posts

253 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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Yes a cell could not hold a charge but still show it has a charge,,,if that makes sense. You'd have to do a load test.

Gruber

6,313 posts

215 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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Can you just drop a battery in from something else, or hook up a booster / jump pack, and see whether it starts? That would at least help identify or eliminate a potential cause.

jeremyh1

1,359 posts

128 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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Check the alternator output it sounds like it is charging OK but there maybe a possibility of a slight overcharge damaging the battery cells
If you can rule that out I would replace it Im guessing this is not your everyday car and lack of use can cause more battery problems then over use

jeremyh1

1,359 posts

128 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
quotequote all

Check the alternator output it sounds like it is charging OK but there maybe a possibility of a slight overcharge damaging the battery cells
If you can rule that out I would replace it Im guessing this is not your everyday car and lack of use can cause more battery problems then over use

MorganP104

2,605 posts

131 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
quotequote all
HustleRussell said:
No idea, I'd guess it’s pretty new looking at it- but they get a pretty tough life in race cars as they sit unused for weeks at a time, and often for several months during the off-season.
This being the case, it might be worth replacing it with a battery designed for use in cars fitted with stop-start technology.

They cost a bit more to buy, but can take a lot more abuse.

jonvw84

228 posts

82 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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If you can get it off the car, Halfrauds will test it for free with no commitment to buy a new one, I had this with the battery on my G40, couple of cells went and had exactly the same symptons as yours

Benni

3,517 posts

212 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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In my Harley mechanic days, I encountered a measuring unit called "cold cranking amps",

batteries in US are often rated with that, not with standard amps.

http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/artic...

I would guess under cold (overnight, even in summertime) conditions and with lots of load, you battery is getting tired.

HustleRussell

Original Poster:

24,724 posts

161 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
quotequote all
Thanks all,

To the two posters immediately above, I have taken the battery to Halfords and on their analyser the voltage was correct and the CCA was estimated as 309 (It's a 300CCA / 30Ah battery). According to the analyser it's a 'good battery'- hence my confusion.

borrowing a battery from another car is the next step although it's a bit of a pain as the Caterham is in the garage on axle stands so not within range of jump leads and I don't fancy taking the battery out of my other car.

Being that I've checked and double checked all connections though I'm almost ready to throw in the towel, order a battery and hope for the best. I'll just get another lead acid one as I am already on the minimum weight and will probably be selling the car soon so no benefit to be had from fancy gel batteries.

The battery does appear to have a slight bulge to it's sides, don't know if this is normal but given what starter motor man said about it getting hot it's probably no coincidence so I'll make a point of checking the alternator charging voltage too.

BOBTEE

1,034 posts

165 months

Wednesday 19th July 2017
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Try making your engine so it won't actually start, disconnect the coil or something similar. the engine should be able crank for at least ten seconds without the battery voltage dropping below 9 Volts.

HustleRussell

Original Poster:

24,724 posts

161 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
quotequote all
Now with Video. Left the car standing for 24 hours and the problem is the same as ever- It might've started first push if I'd let it, but after that the chance of the starter turning the engine over decreased with every push.

You can see why I find this weird- normally when a battery is going flat the starter turns the engine over slowly. Instead I've got this odd problem where the starter motor whirrs away without starting the engine?

bitwrx

1,352 posts

205 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
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If it has boiled, it's fooked, surely?

I had a problem with my Elise when I bought it. Started fine straight away once it had been disconnected from the battery conditioner in the previous owner's garage, but failed to start 2h later after most of a run home. furious

New battery and it's been fine ever since.

I reckon excessive conditioning had killed the old one...

HustleRussell

Original Poster:

24,724 posts

161 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
quotequote all
Ah. Perhaps. The electrolyte bubbling might be normal for all I know- I've never looked inside a battery while current was being drawn.

bitwrx

1,352 posts

205 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
quotequote all
Neither have I to be fair, but it doesn't sound right.

If the pinion is engaging, but not cranking, or the pinion is not engaging, it's either duff starter/solenoid, duff battery, or high resistance somewhere between the two.

You've refurbed the starter, so assume it's not that. Check your earth straps for integrity (give em a wiggle/tug), and check all large cables for corrosion at the terminals. If it's not that, get a new battery.

I'd caution against leaving it permanently connected to a conditioner. If there's no drain - and there probably won't be on a kit car - it'll hold its charge for ages. If you really are leaving for months on end, better off disconnecting it and keeping it somewhere warm over winter IME.

freddytin

1,184 posts

228 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
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Sounds very much like a faulty starter.

Check the voltage at the starter, and as suggested the earth (run a jump lead from the body of the starter to the battery Neg terminal). If those check out then it's looking like new starter motor time .

swisstoni

17,030 posts

280 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
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All a bit small scale, but my ride-on mower wouldn't start recently and my CTEK charger was showing everything was A1 with the battery with a full row of green lights.

Nevertheless I replaced the battery and the engine fired up on the first try.

So in my experience, yes a battery can look ok but actually not be.

Arnold Cunningham

3,773 posts

254 months

Thursday 20th July 2017
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I have had this.
On the conditioner it gave me a green light.
When I first started it, all was fine.
Voltage with engine running was fine.
But if I left the car to stand overnight not connected the the charger, it wouldn't start the next day.