E92 M3 - Panzer II

[custardkid]

After 8 years my E36 M3 Track Car has gone to a new home...


https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

so what next? You've guessed it an E92 M3

I really wanted an other saloon, but coupes are easier to find when on a budget and they have the benefit of the carbon roof and folding seats for wheels and kit

Looking at auto trader and ebay, you'd think it would be easy to buy one... Not so
I saw 8 cars from Portsmouth to edinburgh and most had issues
- Mayo in filled cap
- Crashed and badly repaired - wonky and harleqin paint job
- Missing service history but running ok
- Missing service history and running like a bag of spanners
- Grumbling engines
- Super notchy gear boxes
- 2 owners < a year

So I bought a 96k five owner car
more owners and miles than I wanted, but was the cheapest in the UK in the last 6 months by some margin, and had solid BMW & specialist history, and looked honest

Only one problem.. It was on some super low intrax springs
and some dodgy front tyres

But that half fits with my plans...

Edited by custardkid on Monday 27th May 21:07

[pilleyc78]

Always had the M3 itch and a V8 to boot. Winning.
Put some pics up

[Welshbeef]

These are now at the level the E46 M3 was usable daily drivers and sensible entry cost.

Mpg will be rubbish
VED will be high
Massive high rpm range / race spec engine
Rwd
A lovely proposition.

[TheAngryDog]

Listen very carefully for I shall say this only once.

Rod bearings! Make sure that they have been done or you are planning to have them do. They share the same set up as the S85 so are just as prone to them failing.

Otherwise, enjoy the car and put some pics up!

[custardkid]

Super low springs - now fixed

[custardkid]

Got interrupted.. Will post more soon

[custardkid]

First impressions

Every thing works except the seat belt butler, which doesn't move (was it standard of has it been deactivated?)

The gear change is typical BMW, but it is so nice to be in a manual again. The engine is a master piece, much more character than the jag lump which is much more ferocious but lacks the changes in sound, building momentum and hardening intake noise (although this may be due to the jag ripping through the revs so quickly)
For the road the power is just the right amount, and you enjoy the interaction afforded by changing gear to keep it in song even on a mundane road

Handling wise, I've not had a decent trip in it yet, but from some short stretches of fun, it doesn't feel too heavy and appears to have the same balanced neutrality of the e36, which would let you Chuck it into any corner and dictate the balance on the throttle. So let hope this is like the e36.. But with a bit more go!

There was an odd, "are the dampers shot" characteristic in higher speed compressions which was unsettling... But replacing the springs has fixed this

For the record its getting c20 mpg in town and c30 on a run



The plan:

Too keep it as a road / track car, gt3 style, I've done the stripped out thing before, although fun, I wish I hadn't

- Replace the intrax springs with eibach springs, c20mm higher but still c 20mm lower than stock - done and fixed the dodgy damping

- Add 1.5 deg camber on front stock setup. Will see how this goes on track before investigation adjustable top mounts or coil overs

- Booked in to Redish for rod bearings and a check over

- Booked in to BMW to get the recall items addressed

- Fit some grp buckets, this and brakes are the most important track mod, so you arent supporting your self on the wheel. plan is to use some stock runners modified to fit the seat mounts to and fit seat heaters and occupancy sensors into the bucket seat cushion - any pointers welcome!

- Bushes, there is a slight looseness at the rear consistent with a tired Bush or two, so over the winter I'll drop the subframe , have a tidy up and go through the much swearing involved in Polly bushing everything!

-Brakes - see if my e36 Brembo calipers with RS29s fit (which I don't think they do) plan B is to try the stock calipers with economical ds3000 or EBC RP1 pads, but I guess ultimately move to wallet unfriendly APs when funds allow

- shocks - keep stock assuming the EDC makes a difference on track, and when they fail change to bilstein B6 edc dampers

- Tyres change the front accelera and aging Goodyear F1 for something else for the road
- For track trying to see if a 19 10j et20 will fit on the front with stock suspension, giving a square setup on some BBS CH rims matched to Nankang Ar1s or more expensive cup 2s
A bit like below:

- Oh and stick on some eBay carbon tat on the front and rear to complete the tracks hero look

Any advice helpfully received

[toasty]

custardkid said:

First impressions

Every thing works except the seat belt butler, which doesn't move (was it standard of has it been deactivated?)

If it doesn't come out on either side, the fuse has probably either gone or been removed.

After a while they tend to stop gripping the seatbelt and so people switch it off.

There are easy fixes for the gripping on youtube. Mine went on the driver's side and easily fixed.

[xjay1337]

Plenty of reasonably priced K-sport or AP set ups for E9X M3's being sold on various track time groups -

Have fun, I was looking at one of these, but with DCT - settled on a m135i in the end as I didn't fancy the reliability issues.
That being said I would just get actuators and rod bearings done and enjoy

[HM-2]

custardkid said:

- For track trying to see if a 19 10j et20 will fit on the front with stock suspension, giving a square setup on some BBS CH rims matched to Nankang Ar1s or more expensive cup 2s

Have a look here: https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc/en-us/article...
Apex make a variety of styles of wheel in fitments and offsets specifically designed for BMW, both street and track use. Good quality stuff (easily as good if not better than the BBS CH for a similar price).
Their recommendation for track is either 18x10 or 19x10 ET25 for a square setup, which may fit out-of-the-box or may require a 5mm spacer up front, depending on things like camber and tyre sidewall. That's with 275s all round.

ETA- as a comparison, a 19x10" flow-formed BBS CH is 28.2lb, and a 19x10" flow-formed Apex EC-7 (which is aesthetically similar to the CH) is only 23.5lb. I don't have figures for milled CH-R in 19x10", but the 19x10.5" is 27.8lb. Price wise they should both be around £1200 a set.

Edited by HM-2 on Tuesday 28th May 13:52

[custardkid]

xjay1337 said:

Plenty of reasonably priced K-sport or AP set ups for E9X M3's being sold on various track time groups -

Have fun, I was looking at one of these, but with DCT - settled on a m135i in the end as I didn't fancy the reliability issues.
That being said I would just get actuators and rod bearings done and enjoy

Thanks will keep a lookout
had a M135 they are great just don't read the thread about the one that got oil starvation on the ring

[custardkid]

toasty said:

If it doesn't come out on either side, the fuse has probably either gone or been removed.
.

Thanks
Replaced all the obvious ones, but still nothing happening. Will have to have a further dig around

[custardkid]

HM-2 said:

Have a look here: https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc/en-us/article...

Price wise they should both be around £1200 a set.

Edited by HM-2 on Tuesday 28th May 13:52

Thanks
That fitment page is very usful, I've been studying it + tyre availability + offset calculators for a few days ago

I like the EC7s but CHs are coming out at £1300 and EC7 at £1600 from Tegiwa

Is there a better supplier?

Thanks

[Welshbeef]

custardkid said:

First impressions

Every thing works except the seat belt butler, which doesn't move (was it standard of has it been deactivated?)

The gear change is typical BMW, but it is so nice to be in a manual again. The engine is a master piece, much more character than the jag lump which is much more ferocious but lacks the changes in sound, building momentum and hardening intake noise (although this may be due to the jag ripping through the revs so quickly)
For the road the power is just the right amount, and you enjoy the interaction afforded by changing gear to keep it in song even on a mundane road

Handling wise, I've not had a decent trip in it yet, but from some short stretches of fun, it doesn't feel too heavy and appears to have the same balanced neutrality of the e36, which would let you Chuck it into any corner and dictate the balance on the throttle. So let hope this is like the e36.. But with a bit more go!

There was an odd, "are the dampers shot" characteristic in higher speed compressions which was unsettling... But replacing the springs has fixed this

For the record its getting c20 mpg in town and c30 on a run



The plan:

Too keep it as a road / track car, gt3 style, I've done the stripped out thing before, although fun, I wish I hadn't

- Replace the intrax springs with eibach springs, c20mm higher but still c 20mm lower than stock - done and fixed the dodgy damping

- Add 1.5 deg camber on front stock setup. Will see how this goes on track before investigation adjustable top mounts or coil overs

- Booked in to Redish for rod bearings and a check over

- Booked in to BMW to get the recall items addressed

- Fit some grp buckets, this and brakes are the most important track mod, so you arent supporting your self on the wheel. plan is to use some stock runners modified to fit the seat mounts to and fit seat heaters and occupancy sensors into the bucket seat cushion - any pointers welcome!

- Bushes, there is a slight looseness at the rear consistent with a tired Bush or two, so over the winter I'll drop the subframe , have a tidy up and go through the much swearing involved in Polly bushing everything!

-Brakes - see if my e36 Brembo calipers with RS29s fit (which I don't think they do) plan B is to try the stock calipers with economical ds3000 or EBC RP1 pads, but I guess ultimately move to wallet unfriendly APs when funds allow

- shocks - keep stock assuming the EDC makes a difference on track, and when they fail change to bilstein B6 edc dampers

- Tyres change the front accelera and aging Goodyear F1 for something else for the road
- For track trying to see if a 19 10j et20 will fit on the front with stock suspension, giving a square setup on some BBS CH rims matched to Nankang Ar1s or more expensive cup 2s
A bit like below:

- Oh and stick on some eBay carbon tat on the front and rear to complete the tracks hero look

Any advice helpfully received

Is that a 5 owner car and one of the cheapest in the U.K.?
Looks very nice - well played

[HM-2]

custardkid said:

HM-2 said:

Have a look here: https://support.apexraceparts.com/hc/en-us/article...

Price wise they should both be around £1200 a set.

Edited by HM-2 on Tuesday 28th May 13:52

Thanks
That fitment page is very usful, I've been studying it + tyre availability + offset calculators for a few days ago

I like the EC7s but CHs are coming out at £1300 and EC7 at £1600 from Tegiwa

Is there a better supplier?

Thanks

CA International also stock them, but they're showing as ~£1500 according to their price list.
I'm sure they were cheaper last time I looked, suspect it's the poor exchange rate messing stuff up as they have to be imported from the US.
Don't have any friends stateside who might be able to handle importation duty do you? They're only about $1400 (so ~£1100) direct from Apex. Might be worth speaking to them directly?

Edited by HM-2 on Tuesday 28th May 20:39

[custardkid]

The Redish team doing their stuff
James and James were brilliant

Car was given a clean bill of health
Bearings after 97k miles were fine, but as you can see were worth doing

[custardkid]

A couple of other bits done too

[anonymous-user]

E9X M3, things to sort out.

1. Big end bearings - check
2. Brakes
3. Brakes

I know that's technically two items that are the same but the brakes aren't up to stopping an i3 with your granny at the wheel.

[custardkid]

Parts are starting to mount up!

[custardkid]

After a weekend at the nurburgring 24 hr race .. And walking round the pits 9 out of 10 of the race cars were on BBS wheels.. Even some on the old CHs