Absolute best lead/sock/extender solution?
Discussion
Help me out here.
I am on my third set of decent leads and now I have noticed the top of a couple of rubber boots are splitting at the top.
I am running a set of standard extenders to bring the leads up, a set of Magnacor HT leads and a set of unknown, ('cause I can't remember) socks.
I tie the leads back as much as possible to pull them from the manifolds but as you can see, they run very close.
Unfortunately being a large capacity engine, it does give off a huge amount of heat!
What is the best solution? I'm not up for saving money, just need the best fix!
I am on my third set of decent leads and now I have noticed the top of a couple of rubber boots are splitting at the top.
I am running a set of standard extenders to bring the leads up, a set of Magnacor HT leads and a set of unknown, ('cause I can't remember) socks.
I tie the leads back as much as possible to pull them from the manifolds but as you can see, they run very close.
Unfortunately being a large capacity engine, it does give off a huge amount of heat!
What is the best solution? I'm not up for saving money, just need the best fix!
When I had my last engine built, and knowing it was going to run hotter than standard with the combination of track days and the turbo, Mat Smith installed a set of ceramic capped leads. I can find out whose they were and from where if you like - I suspect that they were sourced from a UK supplier.
A quick skim around the usual suspects comes up with this, which given you have your coil packs behind the plenum, might suit you.
link to website
Last time I looked, they gave a 7.5% discount to TVRCC members
A quick skim around the usual suspects comes up with this, which given you have your coil packs behind the plenum, might suit you.
link to website
Last time I looked, they gave a 7.5% discount to TVRCC members
Edited by QBee on Sunday 2nd June 01:49
I realise this is a limited knowledge observation but...
I once fitted sock protected Magnecore leads without extenders and they ruined a holiday because they couldn't cope with the heat from my stst manifolds. I also thought the stress I had them under to keep them off the manifolds contribute to the caps splitting. I understand that Magnecore and MSD enable more energy to reach the spark plugs but does that honestly matter. I've looked for alternatives but I keep falling back to genuine 7mm Lucas leads. Sure they fail eventually but I've never seen any sign of surface heat damage. Is the extra energy transfer really worth the extra cost and susceptibility to heat damage
I once fitted sock protected Magnecore leads without extenders and they ruined a holiday because they couldn't cope with the heat from my stst manifolds. I also thought the stress I had them under to keep them off the manifolds contribute to the caps splitting. I understand that Magnecore and MSD enable more energy to reach the spark plugs but does that honestly matter. I've looked for alternatives but I keep falling back to genuine 7mm Lucas leads. Sure they fail eventually but I've never seen any sign of surface heat damage. Is the extra energy transfer really worth the extra cost and susceptibility to heat damage
Hi Peter I'm a big fan of MSD Super Conductor spiral wound leads, I've had mine on the car for years, this lighting off LPG which is notoriously hard to ignite so extremely hard on HT leads.
I bought a proper set of ratcheting crimping pliers from China for £12 to allow me to make perfect crimps and fabricate a custom lead set using Ford EDIS coil pack ends which also means I have the flexibility to build individual replacement leads on demand, although the MSD leads are so robust and tollerant of heat these crimping pliers are seeing no use.
You can buy a set of 8 cylinder universal Super Conductor leads from Summit Racing for just over £100 and they'll be with you in under a week, they are availabe in red or black and have bendable plug ends so you can custom set the clearances on each header pipe.
Use with bassalt socks for a belt and braces second line of defence and you should get years of reliable service from your MSD Super Conductor leads..... just as I have.
Dave.
I bought a proper set of ratcheting crimping pliers from China for £12 to allow me to make perfect crimps and fabricate a custom lead set using Ford EDIS coil pack ends which also means I have the flexibility to build individual replacement leads on demand, although the MSD leads are so robust and tollerant of heat these crimping pliers are seeing no use.
You can buy a set of 8 cylinder universal Super Conductor leads from Summit Racing for just over £100 and they'll be with you in under a week, they are availabe in red or black and have bendable plug ends so you can custom set the clearances on each header pipe.
Use with bassalt socks for a belt and braces second line of defence and you should get years of reliable service from your MSD Super Conductor leads..... just as I have.
Dave.
I used a set of these on another V8 years ago and the plug end is quite slim and seems to be made out of a more robust silicone type product.
They showed no signs of heat damage after 10 years, just an example for you.
I think a few places in the U.K. Stock them.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-73053/o...
They showed no signs of heat damage after 10 years, just an example for you.
I think a few places in the U.K. Stock them.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-73053/o...
Belle427 said:
I used a set of these on another V8 years ago and the plug end is quite slim and seems to be made out of a more robust silicone type product.
They showed no signs of heat damage after 10 years, just an example for you.
I think a few places in the U.K. Stock them.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-73053/o...
Mine are silicone based. They showed no signs of heat damage after 10 years, just an example for you.
I think a few places in the U.K. Stock them.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tay-73053/o...
I assume all the MBE supplied systems from Powers use the same leads so take a lot of heat on the later T cars etc.
In this instance and contrary to what I’ve said about ceramic caps, maybe they are your only solution if the heat is so intense.
You’d think if they made the ceramic caps to fit our plugs they would sell loads of them to RR owners and RV running cars which if you include home builds and kit cars must be a considerable market around the world.
They obviously fit with diligence so maybe my concerns are a bit over the top.
Thanks guys. This gives me a few ideas to investigate.
I believe I paid over £100 for the Magnacor leads plus socks, (of dubious quality I reckon now) and so it is disappointing. From memory I had problems with the previous Magnacor set on my previous chim.
Any other ideas, please post up. They have not failed as in, shorting out or engine missing but I need to be on top of this. The engine really does produce a huge amount of heat!
I believe I paid over £100 for the Magnacor leads plus socks, (of dubious quality I reckon now) and so it is disappointing. From memory I had problems with the previous Magnacor set on my previous chim.
Any other ideas, please post up. They have not failed as in, shorting out or engine missing but I need to be on top of this. The engine really does produce a huge amount of heat!
Little to do with your engines extra capacity Peter those Magnapoor lead boots are s
te plain and simple, get that spare set of Accel leads made up like that set we did for the 4.6 you purchased 2 sets if you remember , you will have to turn over your man cave no doubt to find em it was more than a few years ago
te plain and simple, get that spare set of Accel leads made up like that set we did for the 4.6 you purchased 2 sets if you remember , you will have to turn over your man cave no doubt to find em it was more than a few years ago phazed said:
True. I think I may have used them earlier on this engine but I will have a look later. If I used them on this engine then I did possibly without socks and then they were fked!
Sorry but that cracked me up... ked!
5.5 litres + 25% better flow through the heads,,, that’s some heat coming through there.
Probably the trackday caused the failure, is it any cooler when just burbling about.
You’ll hate me for saying this but won’t changing valve timing take a bit of power away but allow cooler bores, might increase fuel return figures too
Silly idea, live with it
Edited by Classic Chim on Sunday 2nd June 11:49
Sardonicus said:
Lean AFR's and retarded ign timing will cause more HT lead trauma than displacement ever will , altering cam timing/tune of the engine no comparison to the above
In Peter’s case with mapped timing and fuelling I’d assume AFR are within limits, just something I read about overlap and leaving some exhaust gases and Unburnt fuel in the bores leads to less fuel/ air getting in so slightly less power but can help control heat better. It’s all a trade off after all.
Buy some standard ones for any Landy, bet they work for years lol!
Decent brand but cost effective ones might be the best way to go and consider them service items, you save on no points and condenser so maybe this is a reasonable idea considering the power your punching out.
Buy a job lot
Decent brand but cost effective ones might be the best way to go and consider them service items, you save on no points and condenser
so maybe this is a reasonable idea considering the power your punching out. Buy a job lot
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