What is the difference between resistance and switched live?
Discussion
I want to upgrade our existing analog room thermostats to digital, however, a bit of research suggests our current UFH controller, a Uponor C35 uses resistance-based control and therefore to go digital will need a whole new control board that uses switched live.
Are there any heating/electrical experts on here able to explain the difference between resistance-based control vs switched live control?
Many thanks, Hoops.
Are there any heating/electrical experts on here able to explain the difference between resistance-based control vs switched live control?
Many thanks, Hoops.
"Resistance-based control" sounds like a thermocouple? i.e. the device on the wall is a temperature-sensitive resistor, connected to the control unit. The control unit therefore knows the temperature in the room and can switch on/off.
Is that how yours works? Is the temperature set on the control box?
Are you trying to replace it with something like Tado?
Is that how yours works? Is the temperature set on the control box?
Are you trying to replace it with something like Tado?
Mr Hoops said:
I want to upgrade our existing analog room thermostats to digital, however, a bit of research suggests our current UFH controller, a Uponor C35 uses resistance-based control and therefore to go digital will need a whole new control board that uses switched live.
Are there any heating/electrical experts on here able to explain the difference between resistance-based control vs switched live control?
Many thanks, Hoops.
I am going to guess a bit and think that the thermostat either gives an analogue value representing the temperature - via a varying resistance, or the switched live type that would just be on or off depending on if you are above/below the set point.Are there any heating/electrical experts on here able to explain the difference between resistance-based control vs switched live control?
Many thanks, Hoops.
For proper control surely you would want a variable ie. actual temperature, rather than on/off.
Thanks chaps. That is what I feared.
The wall stats are 24v two-wire controlled a dial that appears to be a potentiometer for temperature control. The control unit has a normal and eco mode so I guess it uses the resistance in the individual stat to approximate the temperature and call for heat if it falls below a set threshold.
I had hoped to upgrade to a digital system (via a Shelly switch) for more control but this is a non-starter unless there is a wifi/Bluetooth variable resistance switch out there.
The wall stats are 24v two-wire controlled a dial that appears to be a potentiometer for temperature control. The control unit has a normal and eco mode so I guess it uses the resistance in the individual stat to approximate the temperature and call for heat if it falls below a set threshold.
I had hoped to upgrade to a digital system (via a Shelly switch) for more control but this is a non-starter unless there is a wifi/Bluetooth variable resistance switch out there.
Quick update for anyone who comes across this thread in the future.
Decided to rip out the Uponor control unit entirely and put in a custom system using Shelly devices (similar to this guide - https://shelly.guide/application-guide/underfloor-... Temperate measurement is via Shelly H&T's which can be placed anywhere thereby doing away with the wall stats completely.
Being Shelly it all links seamlessly to my Home Assistant setup for remote access and scheduling.
Decided to rip out the Uponor control unit entirely and put in a custom system using Shelly devices (similar to this guide - https://shelly.guide/application-guide/underfloor-... Temperate measurement is via Shelly H&T's which can be placed anywhere thereby doing away with the wall stats completely.
Being Shelly it all links seamlessly to my Home Assistant setup for remote access and scheduling.
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