Dolomite sprint engine wanted
Discussion
You will need more than just the engine as far as I know. I think you need the (uprated vs 1850) gearbox and rear axle / diff. I think also that there is some welding to be done around the gearbox support metalwork to make it all fit.
Go to www.triumphdolomiteclub.com and visit the forum - lots of people there who know more about it than I do.
Engines come up on eBay quite regularly. Equally someone in the club may well have one.
Edited to add: related post here:
http://p206.ezboard.com/fthetriumphdolomiteclubfrm19.showMessage?topicID=503.topic
>> Edited by miniman on Tuesday 13th September 19:39
Go to www.triumphdolomiteclub.com and visit the forum - lots of people there who know more about it than I do.
Engines come up on eBay quite regularly. Equally someone in the club may well have one.
Edited to add: related post here:
http://p206.ezboard.com/fthetriumphdolomiteclubfrm19.showMessage?topicID=503.topic
>> Edited by miniman on Tuesday 13th September 19:39
If you want to put a Sprint engine in an 1850 you really ought to do more than hope for the best. You really need the Sprint drivetrain. What you get is a gearbox that is tougher, a rear axle that is a lot tougher and a propshaft that connects everything together.
We put a TR7 engine that was mildly uprated in an 1850 and thought it would be OK. It ate diffs, the teeth kept falling off the pinion. The diff is very marginal and it really isn't worth doing the job unl;ess the car will be reliable.
As far as building the Sprint engine goes, they take an awful lot of effort to build them optimally. They have a few known weak spots that must be fixed for reliability - torque the head studs to 65 lb ft, and fit a grub screw in the water pump impeller to keep it from spinning on the shaft, open out the water pump to block opening and restrict the inlet manifold to water pump passage. I'd also uprate the radiator.
Having driven a Sprint on Sunday I'd also recommend fitting a quick rack and a smaller steering wheel.
We put a TR7 engine that was mildly uprated in an 1850 and thought it would be OK. It ate diffs, the teeth kept falling off the pinion. The diff is very marginal and it really isn't worth doing the job unl;ess the car will be reliable.
As far as building the Sprint engine goes, they take an awful lot of effort to build them optimally. They have a few known weak spots that must be fixed for reliability - torque the head studs to 65 lb ft, and fit a grub screw in the water pump impeller to keep it from spinning on the shaft, open out the water pump to block opening and restrict the inlet manifold to water pump passage. I'd also uprate the radiator.
Having driven a Sprint on Sunday I'd also recommend fitting a quick rack and a smaller steering wheel.
Triumph shows
A general list - www.tssc.org.uk/events.asp
Specifically look at the International Triumph Show and Spares Day at Stoneleigh. Normally happens every Feb.
>> Edited by //j17 on Wednesday 14th September 11:54
A general list - www.tssc.org.uk/events.asp
Specifically look at the International Triumph Show and Spares Day at Stoneleigh. Normally happens every Feb.
>> Edited by //j17 on Wednesday 14th September 11:54
purpleheadedcerb said:
Sprint diffs are not LSD as standard. They were an option and only 1% or so were taken up. Out of circa 400 sprints left, there aren't many kicking about and when they do come up, fetch anything from £400 to £600 in unknown condition. That's just the diff not the whole car!
Quite right - I checked! Cars with LSD have the letter "S" added as a suffix to the commission number and rear axle number so should be easier to spot. Presumably this stands for salisbury, who made the things. I had a Dolly Sprint for 6 years and always assumed the later cars (like wot I had got) were given LSDs as standard. I still stand by my advice and there are always tatty Sprints on sale on eBay.
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