Jacking the rear

Jacking the rear

Author
Discussion

jmorgan

Original Poster:

36,010 posts

285 months

Saturday 9th November 2002
quotequote all
Very little space in my garage and I can only get the jack under one side.
So if I jack one side up and axle stand it can I use the diff as another point once that is completed to get the other side up?
Its greasing time.
Also not too familiar with the underside of the A frame types for secure points
After moving my garage is now a lot smaller than my old one where this was not a problem.
Cheers in advance

briantvr350i

115 posts

259 months

Saturday 9th November 2002
quotequote all
If this is an "A frame" car... my standard method of jacking up the rear is as follows:-

Find yourself a piece of 3x2 about 8 inches long... Then if you look under the back of the car you will find a channel section to the rear of the diff. Put the 3x2 in the channel (short side to the top) and jack up under the wood. Once high enough, you can place stands and lower the car onto them. This method is useful when you need to change the rear pads or the annual adjustment of the handbrake!

Don't whatever you do use the diff!

Regards,

Brian (and a Red 350)

>> Edited by briantvr350i on Saturday 9th November 11:53

jmorgan

Original Poster:

36,010 posts

285 months

Saturday 9th November 2002
quotequote all
Cheers. The diff carrier was why I was concerned. I can't get the jack under from the rear, too low and I can only access from on side, just. So jack up, axle stand then use your method?

danny hoffman

1,617 posts

263 months

Saturday 9th November 2002
quotequote all
You could try driving the car onto a couple of boards to get the clearence under the channel section under the diff for your jack

19560

12,722 posts

259 months

Saturday 9th November 2002
quotequote all
You should be able to use Brian's method without jacking up one side first; I've used that method since 1991 and I don't bother with the wood always(and there is still no rust there.) Either buy a lower trolley jack or change the set up of your car - it sounds like the springs are either tired or lowered.

jmorgan

Original Poster:

36,010 posts

285 months

Saturday 9th November 2002
quotequote all
Doh! Wood under the rear's will give me what I need to get the jack under.
I blame it on age (and maybe a glass of vino collapso) that I forgot that.
I will still use wood though as there are wicked castleations on the jack. Must look for a better one.

sevans

1,159 posts

268 months

Wednesday 11th December 2002
quotequote all
Does anyone know what clearance there is on the front and rear of the wedge to get a trolly jack under. I am looking round for something more substantial than the £20 one I currently use. I have seen a 3 ton one, but the minimum height is 140mm. I have seen others with a minimum height of 114mm, but they don't look as good.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Wednesday 11th December 2002
quotequote all

sevans said: Does anyone know what clearance there is on the front and rear of the wedge to get a trolly jack under. I am looking round for something more substantial than the £20 one I currently use. I have seen a 3 ton one, but the minimum height is 140mm. I have seen others with a minimum height of 114mm, but they don't look as good.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.


Who is to say that anyone else's measurements will match!

I would go for as low a unit as possible.

shpub

8,507 posts

273 months

Wednesday 11th December 2002
quotequote all

sevans said: Does anyone know what clearance there is on the front and rear of the wedge to get a trolly jack under. I am looking round for something more substantial than the £20 one I currently use. I have seen a 3 ton one, but the minimum height is 140mm. I have seen others with a minimum height of 114mm, but they don't look as good.
Before anyone asks why I don't measure it myself, the car's on axle stands with bits of suspension missing.
Cheers.


Who is to say that anyone else's measurements will match!

I would go for as low a unit as possible.

tasmin83

681 posts

263 months

Wednesday 11th December 2002
quotequote all
I have found over the years that if you can roll the
wheels up onto some planks of wood to get some extra
clearance, most of the good hydraulic floor jacks will
fit under jacking points without much trouble. But I
still agree with Steve, get the one that has the lowest lift height possible, you'll be glad you did.

richa

534 posts

285 months

Wednesday 11th December 2002
quotequote all
Changing the subject slighting to jacking the front, some joker cut a 2 foot section out of the middle of the splitter on my 390 so that a trolley jack would slide under the front. Looks brilliant

RAW-SEWedge

970 posts

260 months

Sunday 5th January 2003
quotequote all
Sorry to drag this thread up again but in the quote below are we talking about the cross member that joins the rear of the chassis below the shock mounts?


briantvr350i said:
.....look under the back of the car you will find a channel section to the rear of the diff.


Ta... Don't want to bend anything

danny hoffman

1,617 posts

263 months

Sunday 5th January 2003
quotequote all
It's a dirty great U section in the centre of the car behind the diff. Just look under the rear bumber at the middle of the car - you can't miss it!

Danny

njhucker

377 posts

261 months

Thursday 9th January 2003
quotequote all
I am borrowing a set of car ramps with built in jacks.
when down they are really low and you can reverse the car onto them. You then just jack them up. they go higher than any axle stands, and have safety locks to secure them when up.alas the company that made them appears to be no longer in existence.But maybe the demand is there to have a mchine shop manufcture again.