1275 metro engine transplant

[Tarkatom]

I'm currently in the process of transplanting a 1275 engine from a D reg metro into my mini mayfair. To my knowledge this is a fairly simple process. I know that i will need to drill a hole in the top of the head to attach the heater to.
Does anyone know of anything elsee that is required to allow this engine to fit into my mini. I noticed the mountings are different, anyone got any knowledge they would like to share? This would help me no end, thanks.

[Cooperman]

Which gearbox are you using? There could be an issue with diff ratios. Best to go for a 3.1 or a 3.2 for a road Mini with a 1275 lump.
Just use the original engine mounting system and transfer everything across. I don't know of any issues with the head except that if you have the older type of heater tap on the right hand end of the head (i.e. furthest away from the rad) then you just need to open out the hole in the head with a 1/2" drill and fit the two 1/4" unf studs each side of the hole. The threaded holes are already there.
Don't forget that it's easy to change bits like the cam, oil pump, timing chain, cam followers, big-end and main bearing shells, crank thrust bearings (especially these), etc, whilst the engine is out. It's always good to go for max reliability.
You could fit the pre-verto clutch/flywheel assembly at this time to improve both reliability and performance.

[tim-d]

I think this topic has been done to death in minimags over the last few years and is basically really easy bar a couple of things- metro engines have no bypass between head & waterpump - some recommend drilling holes in outer ring of thermostat others the fitment of a blanking sleeve - main thing to worry about though is cooling - the std rad isn't up to much but the minispares two core is more than adequate for the job i think the "S" top rad bracket & hose is required and a little scientifc flattening of the breather with a lump hammer for clearance - other than that not much to it, new engine mounts obligatory, solid mounting front subframe wouldn't go amiss and an "ultimate engine steady" vital...

If your MG lump has the cable clutch mechanism - bin it - transfer all hydraulics over from your mini......

[tim-d]

p.s if you've got and early mayfair with drums get some discs pronto....

[skyedriver]

tim-d said:

I think this topic has been done to death in minimags over the last few years and is basically really easy bar a couple of things- metro engines have no bypass between head & waterpump - some recommend drilling holes in outer ring of thermostat others the fitment of a blanking sleeve - main thing to worry about though is cooling - the std rad isn't up to much but the minispares two core is more than adequate for the job i think the "S" top rad bracket & hose is required and a little scientifc flattening of the breather with a lump hammer for clearance - other than that not much to it, new engine mounts obligatory, solid mounting front subframe wouldn't go amiss and an "ultimate engine steady" vital... If your MG lump has the cable clutch mechanism - bin it - transfer all hydraulics over from your mini......

what he said.

ps an LCB helps rather than mini or metro ex manifolds
for some reason my head had the heater holes drilled

[Cooperman]

Just to add that without the by-pass hose you really do need to drill a ring of holes around the thermostat flange. The blanking sleeve tends to make the thing run too cold in cooler weather and is really only for competition use.

[Fat Richie]

Cooperman said:

Just to add that without the by-pass hose you really do need to drill a ring of holes around the thermostat flange. The blanking sleeve tends to make the thing run too cold in cooler weather and is really only for competition use.

Okay, dumb question time - how many holes and what size?

I've done this swap using a '87 Metro lump & box into my '67 998 and so far I've not had any cooling problems in about 3000 miles use (town, country and motorway) since December. I did however fit an uprated rad from Somerfield at the time. Am I going to be in for problems when the warmer weather comes?

Rich

[love machine]

Minispares 2 core is a good rad.

I drilled 8 holes about 2.5 mm in diameter. Works fine.

Look very carefully about the FD. If you use the metro one on 10" wheels, you will find out why!

>> Edited by love machine on Thursday 9th March 21:21

[Fat Richie]

love machine said:

Minispares 2 core is a good rad. I drilled 8 holes about 2.5 mm in diameter. Works fine. Look very carefully about the FD. If you use the metro one on 10" wheels, you will find out why! >> Edited by love machine on Thursday 9th March 21:21

Thanks Stu, another little job for the weekend! Used the front subframe from an '88 Mayfair in the '67 so large discs and I'm using 12-inch wheels. Stock Mayfair items at the moment but have a set of Hillman Pimp steels waiting in the corner, just need to find some Mini style chrome hubcaps to fit them - and wear the tyres out on the Mayfair rims (cheapskate!), oh and fit the HiLos at the front too!

[DollySprintV8]

Hillman Pimp steels

Dont use Mini wheels nut's with these
You will pull the nut's thru the centre's

The Imp use's a larger outside diameter nut's.

[Mini1976]

DO you need to drill the holes in the thermostat is you always have the heater valve open? As then cant the water just circulate through here? With the added advantage that your heater gets warm asap when its cold?

Just asking as i dont have any holes and am wondering if its nesessery to take it out and drill some?

[Fat Richie]

DollySprintV8 said:

Hillman Pimp steels Dont use Mini wheels nut's with these You will pull the nut's thru the centre's The Imp use's a larger outside diameter nut's.

Something I forgot to ask at the time - do Imp nuts have the same diameter & thread pitch as Mini nuts or do I need to get some special nuts machined up?

[annodomini2]

skyedriver said:

for some reason my head had the heater holes drilled

Early ones do, later ones don't.

[Fat Richie]

BTTT... can anyone answer this?

Something I forgot to ask at the time - do Imp nuts have the same diameter & thread pitch as Mini nuts or do I need to get some special nuts machined up?

[skyedriver]

think thread etc same but but will need to check my nut collection, will try to do that (one handed) tomorrow for you. Think the tapers are different and the actual AF dimension
(imp wheels on mini hubs on trailer)

Edited by skyedriver on Tuesday 27th June 23:26

[Fat Richie]

Thanks Tony, would appreciate that!

Rich

[skyedriver]

skyedriver said:

think thread etc same but but will need to check my nut collection, will try to do that (one handed) tomorrow for you. Think the tapers are different and the actual AF dimension
(imp wheels on mini hubs on trailer)

Edited by skyedriver on Tuesday 27th June 23:26

Sorry took so long mate, bad news is, working with one hand in a splint, cannot get the damn chrome hub caps off the trailer and cannot work my way around the garage to find box of wheel nuts. HOWEVER, convinced that previous thoughts are correct, same thread, different AF size different taper so use imp nuts BUT why imp wheels 4.5x12?? why not 12" Rover Mini wheels if you are going 12"?

[Fat Richie]

Tony, thanks for checking.

The front subframe is from an '88 Mayfair and has the later large brakes so I can't use 10-inch wheels. The car already sits on 12-inch steel wheels. I could use alloys but I don't want Minilites as they are so common, I want something different. The last set of 12-inch Wolfrace slots I saw on eBay went for way over my budget, hence the Imp steels. Using them as I can get some chrome hubcaps on them so that they'll look like 12-inch Cooper wheels - just need to find some chrome hubcaps that will fit!

Edited for lousy grammar!

Edited by Fat Richie on Saturday 1st July 23:05

[mr dann]

What's the engine code and I'll tell you what it really is!

[skyedriver]

Fat Richie said:

Tony, thanks for checking.

don't want Minilites as they are so common,

I've got 12" Rover Minilites!!

Common huh!