Buying a Wedge

[grantberkeley]

Finally got the all clear from the wife! Got the budget for a 350/390 - possibly a 400. As a TVR ''virgin'' are there any particular points I should be looking for when buying - known trouble spots, gremlins etc, as although I''m reasonably handy with the spanners and MK1 mallet I don''t want to end up with a complete dog! Thanks! Grant

[mikeb]

Hi Grant, Buy the latest possible one you can afford. Check the chassis throughly for corrosion and any damaged tube work (get it on a ramp if you can). Make sure you test ALL the electrical items. As items like lift motors for the windows and light pods can be a bit expensive. Test drive as many as you can, also low mileage cars may not be too good a thing as these cars need to be used. Water damage on the windscreen (delamination), leather upholstery and carpets from leaks are common. Check the state of exhaust system (very expensive) and don't be put off by the crap brakes (thay are all like that). I am in the middle of writing a 'buyers guide' on the wedge web site - the page should be uploaded in the next week:- http://www.tvrwedgepages.co.uk or you could try Steve Heaths wedge book, which contains some very good pointers. Mike Mica Blue 350i Edited by mikeb on Thursday 6th September 23:46

[rev-erend]

re: buying a wedge (or any TVR) Personally I have never been a fan of 'just buy the latest..' talk to some owners, tvr club meets are a good place, view a few high priced ones to gain experience but when looking remember condition is everything, dont even consider it if its near 80k(rebuild time), properly access consumables (exhaust 300 - manifods, 500 system, tyres 500, servicing) and remember there are plenty of bargins out there - more sellers of TVRs than buyers - so prices are stupidly low. So if you find the right car dont be scared of offering a silly price because you are probably the only one looking at it.. what goes wrong ... remember body / interior first ; if it's not right WALK ! next mechanical - wheel bearings, uj's, tyres & exhaust, radiator for leaks, does gear box stay in gear, is drive )engine) smooth - not hesitation. Rememember test drive with roof on. test all electrials but most of all if it looks A1, history matches condition and you want it - dont let them know.. make a silly offer and buy it.. else walk !

[jmorgan]

Get the engine checked out by someone who knows V8's (not A N Other corner garage). Cost me cos I thought it was only a rebuilt 2yr old and should be OK. DJE of Nuneaton if you are close. I think the later cars have a better build (I will be proved wrong here I think). Get a HPI check. Not cast Iron but checks for HP outstanding, write off etc. All you need is the reg. Will give owners, reg changes, colour and other bits. £15 I think. Edited by jmorgan on Friday 7th September 23:11

[jmorgan]

Yeah got caught out but had the mechanics and body, electrics etc checked by aTVR specialist and all OK and was happy with the condition myself. £85 well spent in that department. Now have a new engine and a cracking car. Bit of a farce but thats TVR for you.

[350matt]

If you can, find another owner (club meeting, where are you based as you can come a look at mine if you want?) who'll let you look over their car so you can familarise youself. Check for overheating, the fan should come in at about 95°C and drag the temperature back down, the nicest cars to my mind are the 400's as they had the later curved dash layout with superior de-misting and the slightly curvier bodywork and the best brakes, but they are the most expensive and not the best value, as the 3-4K you'll pay for a 400 over a 350 or 390 does not buy you that much more ie it'll be no faster than the 390 . Power steering is a bit of a girly option but ruddy useful not only for parking but also banging the lock on in a hurry! They all leak water into the cabin to a greater or lesser degree, the exhaust manifolds crack at the vee joints, std 350 brakes are pretty crap but easily upgradable. They all go like merry hell, sound glorious, and handle pretty well if set-up and maintained properly. Most of the wear and tear pieces , balljoints etc are either Ford or Jagaur and much cheaper if bought through the respective agents instead of TVR garages. About 15-25Mpg depending on the model and your right foot and about 500 quid to insure for me anyway. Best of luck Matt