Fitting arches
Discussion
I fiited a set of group 5's on mine. You can download templates from minispares.com. Not sure if you have to cut for group 2's though?
Its relatively straight forward, just get a good cutting tool and be sure of what your taking off. I drew lines on mine and followed them when cutting then attached the arches and looked at the metal left. Then marked it again with the arches on and recut it with them off. You might have to bend them a little as they are sometimes mishapen. It really pays to buy a good set rather than some of the cheaper sets. Its a time consuming job and the metals sharp so watch your hands. And remeber to treat the bare metal or else it'll rust in no time. File it down aswell to take off the rough.
Really like arches, think they add a certain look to a mini. Good luck
I'm inclined to think that group 2 arches just strap on where the existing screw holes are and need no cutting. Might be easiest to ring the place you're buying them from and ask.
Its relatively straight forward, just get a good cutting tool and be sure of what your taking off. I drew lines on mine and followed them when cutting then attached the arches and looked at the metal left. Then marked it again with the arches on and recut it with them off. You might have to bend them a little as they are sometimes mishapen. It really pays to buy a good set rather than some of the cheaper sets. Its a time consuming job and the metals sharp so watch your hands. And remeber to treat the bare metal or else it'll rust in no time. File it down aswell to take off the rough.
Really like arches, think they add a certain look to a mini. Good luck
I'm inclined to think that group 2 arches just strap on where the existing screw holes are and need no cutting. Might be easiest to ring the place you're buying them from and ask.
Edited by kleaky88 on Wednesday 12th July 11:45
Group 2 arches, besides looking the best of all the available arches, are very easy to fit. You ignore the metal and lip underneath and just fit the arches to the bodywork. I normally use rivnuts and stainless steel socket head screws. I don't know whether they line up exactly with the later 'Mayfair' arches holes - probably not, but the new arches will cover any redundant holes anyway, so just put a bit of sealant in any you don't need to prevent rust starting.
The most difficult thing with the Gp 2 arches is fitting the chrome plastic trim strip. I use a hair drier to soften the strip locally, especially around the double curvature bit where the arches meet the original body seam. It always seems a real sod to do that and I've ruined a couple of strips in the past. Ensure that the two flanges, that's the one on the arch and the original, are well aligned first and file a bit off the Gp 2 arch to make it fit snugly into the seam. I normally do all the positioning before painting the new arches (IMHO they do look best in body colour). Araldite is a good adhesive when you've got the shape right.
I hope all this helps.
Peter
The most difficult thing with the Gp 2 arches is fitting the chrome plastic trim strip. I use a hair drier to soften the strip locally, especially around the double curvature bit where the arches meet the original body seam. It always seems a real sod to do that and I've ruined a couple of strips in the past. Ensure that the two flanges, that's the one on the arch and the original, are well aligned first and file a bit off the Gp 2 arch to make it fit snugly into the seam. I normally do all the positioning before painting the new arches (IMHO they do look best in body colour). Araldite is a good adhesive when you've got the shape right.
I hope all this helps.
Peter
I fitted Group 2 arches to my road Mini and as per Peter's instruction didn't cut the bodywork at all.
If you decide to cut the bodywork for any reason, it is worth remaking the lip so that tyre isn't exposed to a sharp steel edge when on full bump. The remaking of the lip is part of the Mini se7en regs for this reason, where the cars are lowered substantially and run geater castor than road cars (pushing the wheel further foward in the wheel house/arch).
If you decide to cut the bodywork for any reason, it is worth remaking the lip so that tyre isn't exposed to a sharp steel edge when on full bump. The remaking of the lip is part of the Mini se7en regs for this reason, where the cars are lowered substantially and run geater castor than road cars (pushing the wheel further foward in the wheel house/arch).
You need an installation tool for the rivnuts, but it's worth it as it's so much better than using PK screws.
I don't mind the arches being white as I like them body colour. Rather that than moulded in black and you wanting them white. All you need if you want them black is an aerosol of primer and an aerosol of black which you paint after you've done a trial fit and set everything correctly, including cutting the slot if needed.
I don't mind the arches being white as I like them body colour. Rather that than moulded in black and you wanting them white. All you need if you want them black is an aerosol of primer and an aerosol of black which you paint after you've done a trial fit and set everything correctly, including cutting the slot if needed.
cooperman said:
Rather that than moulded in black and you wanting them white.
Too true.
cooperman said:
All you need if you want them black is an aerosol of primer and an aerosol of black
Ah well, if you drive like my son you need several tins of black ! I seem to spend half my life touching in stone chips, hedge scratches etc !! I shouldn't complain tho' he passed his test a few months ago now and he hasn't actually hit anything yet - touch wood!
Gassing Station | Classic Minis | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff