3.2 Carrera Clutch issues......
Discussion
O.K. Here's the deal. My car has been off the road for nearly five years. I'm going to have to move it soon, and I know that there are going to be some problems.
The car is going to need work before it will MOT. I'm going to have to move it quite a way, so there will be a car transporter involved, but it's going to be much more convenient for me if the car can be manouvered short distances under it's own steam.
Because of this, I'm going to do enough to get the engine running and verify that the brakes are basically functional.
I already know that I'm going to have problems with the clutch. Basically the considerable period of inactivity has fastened the clutch to the flywheel. I'm not sure if the unwanted grip is a function of the linings or the centre boss, but I suspect the latter.
The obvious means of separating them is to engage a high gear depress the clutch and gently rock the car until the clutch frees off. I'm not expecting it to be quite that simple, and it's not something that I've had to do before.
I suppose I'm looking for tips and pointers from anyone with experience as to the potential problems that lie within, in the hope of avoiding too much unnecassary damage.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Edited to add;
I guess the particular issue I have in mind is the problem of using lower gears and a tow rope! Any ideas, for example, where the best point of tie off might be?
The car is going to need work before it will MOT. I'm going to have to move it quite a way, so there will be a car transporter involved, but it's going to be much more convenient for me if the car can be manouvered short distances under it's own steam.
Because of this, I'm going to do enough to get the engine running and verify that the brakes are basically functional.
I already know that I'm going to have problems with the clutch. Basically the considerable period of inactivity has fastened the clutch to the flywheel. I'm not sure if the unwanted grip is a function of the linings or the centre boss, but I suspect the latter.
The obvious means of separating them is to engage a high gear depress the clutch and gently rock the car until the clutch frees off. I'm not expecting it to be quite that simple, and it's not something that I've had to do before.
I suppose I'm looking for tips and pointers from anyone with experience as to the potential problems that lie within, in the hope of avoiding too much unnecassary damage.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
Edited to add;
I guess the particular issue I have in mind is the problem of using lower gears and a tow rope! Any ideas, for example, where the best point of tie off might be?
Edited by dilbert on Sunday 20th August 18:28
First job will be digging about looking for unforseen problems!
Check for electrical shorts.
Fit new battery.
Sort out the door latches.
Lift each corner, and inspect suspension.
On the rears inspect the CV joints check for damaged gaitors.
On the fronts, inspect the rack.
Loosely fit the wheels, and check for free rotation, and brake functionality.
Securely fix wheels, and ensure bearings are tight.
Check brake pipes, fuel lines.
Decide what to do about the old fuel.
Check the oil level and inspect the oil lines.
Clean the distributor, and HT Leads.
Lift out the spark plugs, check and a drop of oil into the holes.
Turn the engine by hand with the spark plugs out.
Replace sparks.
Disconnect the coil.
Check the fuel pump.
Turn the engine a couple of times with the starter.
Reconnect the coil.
Reconnect the HT leads.
Trial firing.
Let it warm.
Free the clutch.
Check the electrical ancilliaries.
I think that's everything.
Edited to add;
Tyre pressures!
Check for electrical shorts.
Fit new battery.
Sort out the door latches.
Lift each corner, and inspect suspension.
On the rears inspect the CV joints check for damaged gaitors.
On the fronts, inspect the rack.
Loosely fit the wheels, and check for free rotation, and brake functionality.
Securely fix wheels, and ensure bearings are tight.
Check brake pipes, fuel lines.
Decide what to do about the old fuel.
Check the oil level and inspect the oil lines.
Clean the distributor, and HT Leads.
Lift out the spark plugs, check and a drop of oil into the holes.
Turn the engine by hand with the spark plugs out.
Replace sparks.
Disconnect the coil.
Check the fuel pump.
Turn the engine a couple of times with the starter.
Reconnect the coil.
Reconnect the HT leads.
Trial firing.
Let it warm.
Free the clutch.
Check the electrical ancilliaries.
I think that's everything.
Edited to add;
Tyre pressures!
Edited by dilbert on Sunday 20th August 19:51
It wasn't on My Porsche, but on several of my Bimmers at various times over the years I've left them sitting around in the wet and the clutch has seized like that. I've successfully started the car on the starter motor in a high gear and freed them a few times.
I know the Porsche is rear engined rear wheel drive but I don't think it should be any different. I also don't think it should damage it in any way (unless you shunt it into the car in front of course
). Do you?
Let us know how it goes!
I know the Porsche is rear engined rear wheel drive but I don't think it should be any different. I also don't think it should damage it in any way (unless you shunt it into the car in front of course
). Do you? Let us know how it goes!
Edited by Marquis_Rex on Tuesday 22 August 18:53
Marquis_Rex said:
It wasn't on My Porsche, but on several of my Bimmers at various times over the years I've left them sitting around in the wet and the clutch has seized like that. I've successfully started the car on the starter motor in a high gear and freed them a few times.
I know the Porsche is rear engined rear wheel drive but I don't think it should be any different. I also don't think it should damage it in any way (unless you shunt it into the car in front of course ). Do you?
Let us know how it goes!
I know the Porsche is rear engined rear wheel drive but I don't think it should be any different. I also don't think it should damage it in any way (unless you shunt it into the car in front of course
). Do you? Let us know how it goes!
Edited by Marquis_Rex on Tuesday 22 August 18:53
Wilco!
Edited to add;
I wouldn't be surprised. I suppose if the brakes area bit iffy, and we don't have enough manpower available, I can envisage the scenario where the thing is being dragged along on the tow rope, the clutch free's, you go for the brakes and find none.
The other is the one where you use the starter to drive the wheels trhough the seized clutch, the engine fires, and you cant disengage the clutch, and don't have any brakes!
Having said that, I don't think either is likely. I figure what is more likely, is that all the applied effort goes into splitting the clutch, the clutch plates separate, but either a large flake of the linings ends up rattling about in the bell housing, or alternatively stuck to the flywheel. Oooooo nasty!
I'm sure it will be fine!
rich 36 said:
While your looking at rack,
see how the pedals are bolted through the floor please
I need to bolt on a new assembly, as mine are toast
see how the pedals are bolted through the floor please
I need to bolt on a new assembly, as mine are toast
I'm 100% sure that the accelerator pedal has a couple of small screws through the plastic moulding into bushings welded into the floor pan.
As for the pedal frame, I can't remember, but I'd have thought it's similar. I'll have a look, and let you know.
I had a problem with 'go pedal' binding halfway, had a good look at it, and found the cam between pedal & cable is very worn on its bush, causing it to rub against the pedal assy' sometimes.
Aquick fix has solved it, but it once went through a phase of of it some year or so ago, and I bought a complete one in new condition at Husborne C
but it never got fitted,
now is I suspect the time though
Aquick fix has solved it, but it once went through a phase of of it some year or so ago, and I bought a complete one in new condition at Husborne C
but it never got fitted,
now is I suspect the time though
Had this various times over the years with RWD fords left sitting for ages.
Best way to fix was jack both rear wheels of the ground, start engine in 3rd gear, rev to 3000rpm, lift off throttle, foot on clutch, then BAM jam the brakes on hard and fast. Freed the clutch first time every time.
Best way to fix was jack both rear wheels of the ground, start engine in 3rd gear, rev to 3000rpm, lift off throttle, foot on clutch, then BAM jam the brakes on hard and fast. Freed the clutch first time every time.
911mot said:
Had this various times over the years with RWD fords left sitting for ages.
Best way to fix was jack both rear wheels of the ground, start engine in 3rd gear, rev to 3000rpm, lift off throttle, foot on clutch, then BAM jam the brakes on hard and fast. Freed the clutch first time every time.
Best way to fix was jack both rear wheels of the ground, start engine in 3rd gear, rev to 3000rpm, lift off throttle, foot on clutch, then BAM jam the brakes on hard and fast. Freed the clutch first time every time.
Hmmm....
Understand where you're coming from.
Sounds like it might be a bit hairy. Any particular tips to stop it falling off the jack?
Edited to add;
Thinking about it, I doubt it's going to be too bad. I suppose it's just that I've not got any experience of having the wheels turning whilst a vehicle is on stands.
The thing that worries me is that the 911 is a bit wobbly when it's on it's normal jacking points, because of the weight distribution.
It's always useful to have other ideas though, in case it get's to be a pain.
Edited by dilbert on Tuesday 22 August 23:02
It should be stable enough if you support it with axle stands on both sides under the torsion bar covers, but having the driveshafts at that kind of angle *might* not be too kind on the CV joints.
I'd try on the road first 2nd gear and boot it with your foot on the clutch
231 bhp outa be enough to overcome a bit of rust just watch you dont spend to long on the limiter when it does go...
I'd try on the road first 2nd gear and boot it with your foot on the clutch
231 bhp outa be enough to overcome a bit of rust just watch you dont spend to long on the limiter when it does go...
911mot said:
It should be stable enough if you support it with axle stands on both sides under the torsion bar covers, but having the driveshafts at that kind of angle *might* not be too kind on the CV joints.
I'd try on the road first 2nd gear and boot it with your foot on the clutch
231 bhp outa be enough to overcome a bit of rust just watch you dont spend to long on the limiter when it does go...
I'd try on the road first 2nd gear and boot it with your foot on the clutch
231 bhp outa be enough to overcome a bit of rust just watch you dont spend to long on the limiter when it does go...
Nice!
Marquis_Rex said:
How could you let a beauty like your 3.2 Carrera be off the road for 5 years? 
Is the body work in good shape?
Good luck!
Is the body work in good shape?
Good luck!
It's not off the road because I want it to be. More because of cash/job/fuel prices/maintainance.
Structurally it's O.K., but like any twenty year old car it's going to have it's issues.
Cheers for the luck.
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