A+ 998 std cam manual vs auto
Discussion
Can any one with geekish knowledge give advise please?
Currently building a 1000 manual to replace my auto in my every day runabout, as the auto box is getting jerky as heck on the down change and when hot won't take up drive until 1500 rpm and then takes off as if you have dropped the clutch.
Any way I have been meaning to convert for a long time.
So the question----- is the A plus 998 cam the same in the auto and manual?
The old 998 pre a plus auto engine had the std 1275 pre a plus cam in it with longer exhaust duration.
The reasoning being its worth using the auto cam in the manual (if its slightly better) as its available and free.
Many thanks.
The Plank
Currently building a 1000 manual to replace my auto in my every day runabout, as the auto box is getting jerky as heck on the down change and when hot won't take up drive until 1500 rpm and then takes off as if you have dropped the clutch.
Any way I have been meaning to convert for a long time.
So the question----- is the A plus 998 cam the same in the auto and manual?
The old 998 pre a plus auto engine had the std 1275 pre a plus cam in it with longer exhaust duration.
The reasoning being its worth using the auto cam in the manual (if its slightly better) as its available and free.
Many thanks.
The Plank
ing about and put an MG Metro lump in it.The auto does have a slightly warmer cam I belive, don't have the bible around at the moment to confirm. The Kent 266 works well in a 998 if you want a nice driveable engine.
However, by far the most important part of a good 998 engine is the head. The standard 998 head is dire in almost every respect (tiny valves, shrouding, restrictive ports etc.) so a decent head makes a huge difference even on a standard cam. A 12G295 with suitable sized chambers is a good move, but they are getting more difficult to find.
The 1098 head flows a little better due to slghtly bigger valves and ports but not a patch on the 295.
However, by far the most important part of a good 998 engine is the head. The standard 998 head is dire in almost every respect (tiny valves, shrouding, restrictive ports etc.) so a decent head makes a huge difference even on a standard cam. A 12G295 with suitable sized chambers is a good move, but they are getting more difficult to find.
The 1098 head flows a little better due to slghtly bigger valves and ports but not a patch on the 295.
Many thanks.
I will use the auto cam. The engine I am re buliding has done a genuine 50,000 with service history from a very rotten car but the bores are very worn yet the crank and shells are as new, so I supose this is due to short city jouneys as that was what it was used for, so low milage is not a guarentee of a good motor. Thanks for the suggestions to hot it up ,but I allready have a deseamed 1967 with a warmed up 1310 cooper S engine box and running gear for the weekend. Plank
I will use the auto cam. The engine I am re buliding has done a genuine 50,000 with service history from a very rotten car but the bores are very worn yet the crank and shells are as new, so I supose this is due to short city jouneys as that was what it was used for, so low milage is not a guarentee of a good motor. Thanks for the suggestions to hot it up ,but I allready have a deseamed 1967 with a warmed up 1310 cooper S engine box and running gear for the weekend. Plank
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