Running in, oil grade recommendations (Yup, beast is back)

[Marshy]

OK, my car's back, after having been chez Brundle for an extended holiday. All my oil consumption woes were traced to an out-of-spec block, which was replaced. That, along with recon heads from TVR power in December, means my engine is pretty much new.

With the new block, I'm in running in mode again. Haven't found out yet how many miles it did with them post-rebuild, but I'm assuming now many, given that the oil looks increadibly fresh.

What are the current recommendations for running in? Having had differing recommendations from different people, I'd like to canvass opinion.

I'm currently assuming 1000 miles, then oil change. Now, some people say below 3000 for the whole 1000 miles, others say start to increase revs with miles. Everyone says don't let it labour. (5 litre... labour... yeah right!). The increase-revs-with-miles scheme would seem to be sensible, rather than 3000 rpm, then nail it when I'm upto 1000 miles. But how many extra revs, and when?

Last time I spoke to Brundle about things, they said it'd spend it's first 1000 miles on mineral oil, then about 5000 of semi-synthetic, then finally onto Mobil 1 or similar. Still gospel?

Cheers

[jmorgan]

Mine was changed at 500 then 1000 on mineral oil and told to keep it below 2500-3000 rpm (2500 better 3000 if you must which I did despite the urge). Next change at 3000. Using Valvoline 20/50 racing oil as recommended (for mine that is not across the board). This after a complete rebuild and brand new heads (list fills A4 sheet of all parts used). After last service at 1000 told I could let loose at about 1500 but not all at once, build it up sort of thing. Then service every 3000 miles (gives me a 12000 warranty if I keep it proper) Engine work done by DJE. Don't let it get hot, don't go to the corner shop to get the milk (recommended 20 odd miles per drive ) etc

Jeff 400 (now 420)SE and a clean engine

Edited by jmorgan on Monday 29th October 00:26

[apache]

marshy,
thats good advice but to calm your nerves speak to Steve Howard at Thames Valley Racing, IMO he is an engine guru and will put you right...good to see you back on the road

[350matt]

Make sure that the oil you've got in it now is just a low-grade mineral oil for starters and change it and the filter at 1000 Miles. After that run decent mineral oil Castrol GTX etc and start using the revs a bit more. A good rule I've found is 2/3rds the revs and 2/3rds the load, bear in mind that the piston rings need some gas load to bed in properly. After another 500 miles or so start using full throttle and all the revs, building up to it as you've been reccommended, then after 3000 miles bung the fully synthetic oil in.

Matt

[steelnads]

Jeff who is DJE and are you happy with the work done by them?
And if it's not being too nosy what was done and how much did it cost?

Thanks steelnads

[jmorgan]

quote:
Jeff who is DJE and are you happy with the work done by them?
And if it's not being too nosy what was done and how much did it cost?

Thanks steelnads

Very happy with the work. He has a workshop in Nuneaton and it is so clean you can eat your dinner off the workbenches (unlike another V8 place in the area). He is not cheap but you get a level of service, attention and knowledge that puts you at your ease. Work on the engine was done to the finest detail and treated it with care. £5800 all told. This got me my old block (3.9 range rover and reletivly new, bodged by a.n.other in the past) cross bolted, 400 grit bore finish. De-burred and decked, 9.351 compression. 218 fast road cam. High rev lifters. Steel timing chain. Index ground crank. New bearings throughout, new fixings, composite gaskets. 2 brand new stage 3 med valve heads (old ones buggered by bodgeit and son whoever they are), ported,custom valve and seat job, multi-angle. Short and bullett guide, chamber blend and dual springs and retainers, shimmed up, O ring stem seals. Trumpet base shortened. Bored out plenum butterfly. Lucas 14 CUX hotwire. Custom chip to suit. Lightened flywheel. Uprated oil pump base. Lifter preload set. Sump baffled (for track days ) Most of the above lifted from the spec he typed out and the parts list is long. Also due to the amount of work done a 12000 mile warranty and srict instructions on running (and running in) and service to be carried out by DJE only. His web site is www.djev8.com .Sorry for the long reply but there is more that he has done, the above is cut down. Piccy on tvrwedge pages

Edited by jmorgan on Tuesday 30th October 13:19

[steelnads]

Jeff thanks for the info. I w'ont ask if it goes like bu--ery!

steelnads

[jmorgan]

No time to dyno it as I was in a rush. On paper good for around 270Bbhp and it is blue printed