clutch adjustment

[mini*drummer]

hi guys,
ive got a pre-verto clutch in my 84 mini sprite. The pedal has probably got 2 inches of movement at the top until it seperates. thus making it quite interesting in standing traffic. My problem is the cluth isn't slipping so i was wondering is there any way of adjusting it?
many thanks in advance.
tim.

[danwebster]

Does it feel like slack in the pedal? If so you may find that it is in fact the pedal itself, as they wear hideously where the pin goes through that connects it to the master cylinder.

[mini*drummer]

no the pedal is as hard as normal, but the bite point has been working its way up the cluth and now its right at the top. there is no wear in the linkage.
ive bought a new clutch arm yesterday i was wondering if it was worth changing that? i hear they can bend over time?
tim.

[fwdracer]

Check the ball on the end of clutch arm (slave cylinder into the clutch cover). Wear in this ball end is common (it goes egg shaped in extreme cases) - when they wear out the symptoms,you describe occur. Eventually the car will try to creep on its own with what appears to be a fully depressed clutch pedal.

The pin that secures the clutch arm (Goes Through) into the clutch cover housing is also prone to wear (check for a wear ridge), this offsets the throw of the arm and you lose the mechanical advantage you have over the clutch. Replace both the arm and the securing pin and you should be sorted...

Edited by fwdracer on Wednesday 14th March 08:37

[mini*drummer]

thats the weird thing tho. the bite point has worked its way from the bottom to the top? is that normal? i can't understand why it's not slipping.
thanks for all your help though. really appreciated.
tim.

[rww]

Mini*drummer, Your first diagnosis appeared to indicate that the clutch pedal had two inches of free movement before operating the clutch, subsequent messages got me confused, but that's easily done!
But if it were my problem :-

1. Check the slave cylinder for leaking fluid (failed piston seals) by prising the rubber cover away from the pushrod and seeing what is behind it. It should be dry.
2. Air in the hydraulics - bleed the slave cylinder by loosening the bleed nipple at the end of the slave cylinder, holding your finger over the nipple and getting somebody to operate the clutch pedal SLOWLY.Fluid(and probably air) should be forced passed your finger.Retighten the nipple with the clutch pedal on the floor.Refill reservoir if necessary.
3. Check the mechanical linkage as previously described but only after checking the adjustable thrust bearing clearance stop first and possibly the throw out stop nuts. Refer to Haynes.

Best of luck.

[Grayedout]

Two things to check and do first !

Does the play disapear if you pump the pedal? If no then its not air in the system !

Next you need to adjust the throwout stop. Disconnect the spring from the top of the clutch arm.......pull the arm away from the clutch by hand until you have taken up all the play. Now sticking out of the cover, halfway down the arm, you will see a bolt with a locknut. Adjust this until there is approx 15 thou of clearance between the bolt and the arm and re-tighten the locknut. Re-connect the spring and see if this has renmoved all the play.

The biting point moving from the bottom to the top is a sign of a wearing clutch plate as it gets thinner and takes less movement to disconnect it from the drive plate. Be prepared to change it in the not too distant future !