Hole punch or drill ?

[pilbeam_mp62]

Have any builders used a 1/8 inch hole punch rather than a 3.2mm drill for making the holes in
the aluminium panelling ? It seems like it would be a lot quicker and would not need de-burring.
Any views ?

Thanks very much,
Regards

Kelvin

[Steve_D]

The method you should be using is having cut and shaped your panel you mark out where the holes will be and centre punch them. Position the panel and drill some corner holes through the panel into the chassis and fit panel pins/cleeko to secure the panel in position. The remaining holes are then drilled through both the panel and chassis in one operation ensuring they align correctly. The panel is then removed and both the panel and chassis are deburred.

Some people have made a drill jig that can be positioned along the required rivet line which saves the time involved in marking and centre punching.

So to answer your question, punching the holes is an extra operation plus unless this is being done on a machine accurate positioning of the punched hole will be very difficult.

Steve

[pilbeam_mp62]

Steve_D said:

The remaining holes are then drilled through both the panel and chassis in one operation ensuring they align correctly.
Steve

That was the bit I was not sure about - but you have answered it perfectly for me - thanks you very much Steve.

Regards
Kelvin

[crafty]

Definitely use the rivet template featured on Stig's site.... that is a lifesaver.

[Crazy of Cookham]

Interesting seam to remember I used a template made from a steel meter rule with hole drilled at required gaps. I then marked centre punched drilled Ali. Marked a couple of holes in line on chassis and help with pins. Used the holes in ali as the marker points for chassis drilling, combination of tape and centre punch. Remove ali de burr. Drill chassis, waxol, replace ali rivet etc.

One important thing is to check before drilling ali that:

1) You can get the drill into the position you want to drill hole in chassis.
2) You can also get rivet gun into places.
3) If canam do not rivet top of engine bulk head and front bulk head as body overlaps and need to rivet through both.

One or two points where things get into way.

[MattYorke]

I used a drill press and made a jig to get the holes in the panels done perfectly.
Then rivclamped the panel on and drilled the chassis holes.
Not difficult, just time consuming to do well. (Probably a fair summary of the whole build actually)
And remember, anything more than 30mm rivet spacing is a cop out.

[Davrianman]

When marking off the holes for the rivets, I used one of these tools:

Small one
http://www.aetools.co.uk/product.asp?s=jp3nia54102...


Large one
http://www.aetools.co.uk/product.asp?s=jp3nia54102...

We use them on aircraft when doing repairs to panels. They are absolutely brilliant and very easy to use. Also if you cannot get the spacing correct for 30mm then it is very easy to adjust. Saved me hours on my build and resulted in a good finish....

Cheers,

Mart

[pilbeam_mp62]

Mart,

These look like an ingenious solution to the spacing problem - I can't tell the difference between the two pictures - they both look the same to me !! ?? - Would you recommend the Small, the Large or both...?

Thanks very much,
Regards

Kelvin

[Davrianman]

Hi Kelvin,

I have the large one (ohh err) which will cover 700mm when you have a 30mm spacing... I would recommend this one...

Cheers,

Mart

[pilbeam_mp62]

Thanks very much Mart.
Regards

Kelvin