Changing Brake Pads - Advice
Discussion
Hi all,
First post. Been lurking here for a while. Recently got myself a caterham Roadsport (rover k-series) and was wanting to change the front pads myself.
Was wondering if its a simple job and if there is anything I should be watching out for in terms of those forehead slappingly obvious things.
Any advice much appreciated for this newbie!
John.
First post. Been lurking here for a while. Recently got myself a caterham Roadsport (rover k-series) and was wanting to change the front pads myself.
Was wondering if its a simple job and if there is anything I should be watching out for in terms of those forehead slappingly obvious things.
Any advice much appreciated for this newbie!
John.
Easy, but there will be two differing procedures depending if you have 2 or 4 pot (the latter being alloy AP items) calipers.
On the 4 pots, it is possible to insert the pads metal side to the disc, the drive a considerble number of road miles before realising!
In general you will need a set of allen keys and a big flat bladed screwdriver to push the pistons back. And some Coppaslip.
On the 4 pots, it is possible to insert the pads metal side to the disc, the drive a considerble number of road miles before realising!
In general you will need a set of allen keys and a big flat bladed screwdriver to push the pistons back. And some Coppaslip.
Thanks for the note and for the advice on inserting the right way round! I have had a look and seems straight-forward. There are two bolts held in by a couple of split pins which I can remove easily and get the pads out. The part I'm not sure of is how to get the piston back. Clearly the new pads are thicker so I know I have to do this.
Mention screwdriver and forcing things in the same sentence normally ends in me breaking things!!
Mention screwdriver and forcing things in the same sentence normally ends in me breaking things!!
John, I think you have the 2 pot brakes by the sound of things which keeps matters simple.
You remove the spring clips and the pis which secure the pads will pull out. If they are stuck, a gentle tap with a drift of some description and small hammer will have them free very quickly.
Once the pins are out you can pull the pads out from each side of the disc. Each pad MAY have a thin stainless stell shim. Note the orientation of these when you remove them, they prevent the brakes from squeeling.
If the pads will not come free, y6ou will need to persuade the pistons back a small amount (not too much for now) to provide enough of a gap to allow the pad to slide over any ridge on the edge of the disc.
Pull the pads out, clean the brake dust off the caliper as best you can and then move to the reservoir on the brake cylinder. Take the cap off this and make a note of the fluid level.
Next you must move the pistons back one at a time to make room for the new thicker pads. You can simply use a big flat bladed screwdriver (12 -15" long)betaeen teh disc and the end of the piston to do this BUT you must be careful of TWO things:
1. Don't pinch the rubber seal around the piston - damage done means new caliper.....
2. As you push the pistons back, you need to watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If it overflows it will act like paint stripper. You may want to keep a bucket of water and a sponge at hand just in case - you'll get about 10 secs grace before your paint melts! Best to syphon out some fluid, but not all of it or you will introduce air into the system.
Once the pads are out and the pistins pushed back, slot the new pads in - smear a little copper slip on the back (metal!) side of the pad to help with the anti squeel, reinsert the shims, pins and clips then top up the fluid to the max mark on the reservoir. Retire to the driving seat a pump the brake pedal a couple of times. It will probaly go to the floor on the first pump and should return to normal level in 2 or 3 pumps.
Recheck the reservoir level and top up to the max level mark if necessary.
Double check everything, ensure there is no grease on your brake discs and then out the wheels back on. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque which I belive is 60ft lbs.
You're done.
Beware of the following:
Any fluid or grease on the braking material of the pads will render them useless.
Always press the brake pedal to check it is firm before driving the car, especially after servicing the brakes.
Always do both pads on both sides of the car as a single job. You can do front and rear axles independently.
If you a slick the whole job takes 30 mins. A first timer will probably take a couple of hours.
If you get stuck, there are plenty on this forum who will help you, or gate crash your local Lotus Seven Club meeting - Most areas have plenty of non-members turn up!
Good luck!
You remove the spring clips and the pis which secure the pads will pull out. If they are stuck, a gentle tap with a drift of some description and small hammer will have them free very quickly.
Once the pins are out you can pull the pads out from each side of the disc. Each pad MAY have a thin stainless stell shim. Note the orientation of these when you remove them, they prevent the brakes from squeeling.
If the pads will not come free, y6ou will need to persuade the pistons back a small amount (not too much for now) to provide enough of a gap to allow the pad to slide over any ridge on the edge of the disc.
Pull the pads out, clean the brake dust off the caliper as best you can and then move to the reservoir on the brake cylinder. Take the cap off this and make a note of the fluid level.
Next you must move the pistons back one at a time to make room for the new thicker pads. You can simply use a big flat bladed screwdriver (12 -15" long)betaeen teh disc and the end of the piston to do this BUT you must be careful of TWO things:
1. Don't pinch the rubber seal around the piston - damage done means new caliper.....
2. As you push the pistons back, you need to watch the fluid level in the reservoir. If it overflows it will act like paint stripper. You may want to keep a bucket of water and a sponge at hand just in case - you'll get about 10 secs grace before your paint melts! Best to syphon out some fluid, but not all of it or you will introduce air into the system.
Once the pads are out and the pistins pushed back, slot the new pads in - smear a little copper slip on the back (metal!) side of the pad to help with the anti squeel, reinsert the shims, pins and clips then top up the fluid to the max mark on the reservoir. Retire to the driving seat a pump the brake pedal a couple of times. It will probaly go to the floor on the first pump and should return to normal level in 2 or 3 pumps.
Recheck the reservoir level and top up to the max level mark if necessary.
Double check everything, ensure there is no grease on your brake discs and then out the wheels back on. Tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque which I belive is 60ft lbs.
You're done.
Beware of the following:
Any fluid or grease on the braking material of the pads will render them useless.
Always press the brake pedal to check it is firm before driving the car, especially after servicing the brakes.
Always do both pads on both sides of the car as a single job. You can do front and rear axles independently.
If you a slick the whole job takes 30 mins. A first timer will probably take a couple of hours.
If you get stuck, there are plenty on this forum who will help you, or gate crash your local Lotus Seven Club meeting - Most areas have plenty of non-members turn up!
Good luck!
Gassing Station | Caterham | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff