Solid Anti Roll Bar Drop Links
Discussion
Hello Chaps
I am thinking of fitting these to my Rover Coupe Turbo.
I have been getting in to trackdays quite a lot now and would like to know of any possible drawbacks to fitting these. The car is used on track and road. It is not my daily driver.
Will these provide a harsher ride and send more vibrations through the car?
Also, I read on a technical forum that a lot of car makers are putting stiffer ARB's on the back of FWD hatches to aid handling. Can someone explain the logic of this please?
Many thanks
Dr T
I am thinking of fitting these to my Rover Coupe Turbo.
I have been getting in to trackdays quite a lot now and would like to know of any possible drawbacks to fitting these. The car is used on track and road. It is not my daily driver.
Will these provide a harsher ride and send more vibrations through the car?
Also, I read on a technical forum that a lot of car makers are putting stiffer ARB's on the back of FWD hatches to aid handling. Can someone explain the logic of this please?
Many thanks
Dr T
What sort of "solid" drop links are you intending fitting? Rose jointed links will need more maintenance as they dirt ingress can degrade the joint so you'd need to keep a closer eye on them. I'd actually think that poly arb mounting bushes would have more effect on NVH than drop links as this is where the interface is to the unsprung chassis.
Changing roll stiffness at one end can promote over or understeer. Stiffening the rear or softening the front will tend toward oversteer and vice versa. If you watch the BTCC, you'll see that despite being FWD, the back end of the cars still moves around quite a bit as it is very stiff at the rear. It helps the car be more "pointy". Take everything I say with a pinch of salt though and use it as the base of your own research as I'm still learning myself.
Changing roll stiffness at one end can promote over or understeer. Stiffening the rear or softening the front will tend toward oversteer and vice versa. If you watch the BTCC, you'll see that despite being FWD, the back end of the cars still moves around quite a bit as it is very stiff at the rear. It helps the car be more "pointy". Take everything I say with a pinch of salt though and use it as the base of your own research as I'm still learning myself.
LexSport said:
What sort of "solid" drop links are you intending fitting? Rose jointed links will need more maintenance as they dirt ingress can degrade the joint so you'd need to keep a closer eye on them. I'd actually think that poly arb mounting bushes would have more effect on NVH than drop links as this is where the interface is to the unsprung chassis.
Changing roll stiffness at one end can promote over or understeer. Stiffening the rear or softening the front will tend toward oversteer and vice versa. If you watch the BTCC, you'll see that despite being FWD, the back end of the cars still moves around quite a bit as it is very stiff at the rear. It helps the car be more "pointy". Take everything I say with a pinch of salt though and use it as the base of your own research as I'm still learning myself.
thanks for you input. I believe the ones I am looking at fitting are rose jointed. I am aware of the dirt problem. I thought the better quality ones are 'coated' with teflon or something like that which helps with the dirt issue.Changing roll stiffness at one end can promote over or understeer. Stiffening the rear or softening the front will tend toward oversteer and vice versa. If you watch the BTCC, you'll see that despite being FWD, the back end of the cars still moves around quite a bit as it is very stiff at the rear. It helps the car be more "pointy". Take everything I say with a pinch of salt though and use it as the base of your own research as I'm still learning myself.
My front ARB drop links are already poly bushed, I am looking at making the rear drop links solid (as in no rubber bushes) but adjustable for fine tuning.
Again, just done a bit of further reading and found that people tend to make the rear ARB stiffer on a FWD to dial out the understeer.
Dr T
Mine uses teflon coated rod ends and it's been fine despite many tens of thousands of miles all year round. But the manufacturers do recommend fitting dirt seals to protect them. Two types seem common - sort of rubber washers that go either side of the joint, and a bellows affair that goes over the whole thing.
In any case you will need to check them periodically for excessive play and replace them as necessary.
In any case you will need to check them periodically for excessive play and replace them as necessary.
If the car is primalrily a road car i would not fit Spherical drop links, theyre not much harsher, but create more road noise and the bumps/holes etc will wear them out a lot quicker, same with having any rose jointed suspension on a road car.
But if its primarily a track car with just driving it there back and forth etc, illd fit them, gives greater control and less movement. Which will only aid in keeping your suspension gemoetry true when cornering.
I looked into this when getting my ARB's for my Focus and was told the above by an expert.
But if its primarily a track car with just driving it there back and forth etc, illd fit them, gives greater control and less movement. Which will only aid in keeping your suspension gemoetry true when cornering.
I looked into this when getting my ARB's for my Focus and was told the above by an expert.
TheFuturesBright said:
If the car is primalrily a road car i would not fit Spherical drop links, theyre not much harsher, but create more road noise and the bumps/holes etc will wear them out a lot quicker, same with having any rose jointed suspension on a road car.
But if its primarily a track car with just driving it there back and forth etc, illd fit them, gives greater control and less movement. Which will only aid in keeping your suspension gemoetry true when cornering.
I looked into this when getting my ARB's for my Focus and was told the above by an expert.
Interesting, would they provide a similar effect to using a thicker ARB then? I am aiming to 'stiffen' the rear ARB.But if its primarily a track car with just driving it there back and forth etc, illd fit them, gives greater control and less movement. Which will only aid in keeping your suspension gemoetry true when cornering.
I looked into this when getting my ARB's for my Focus and was told the above by an expert.
I don't use the car that much on the road... it is mainly used as a second car.. so I am tempted to try the solid ARB drop links..
Dr Imran T said:
Interesting, would they provide a similar effect to using a thicker ARB then? I am aiming to 'stiffen' the rear ARB.
Not really similar - the rubber drop links produce a highly non-linear response which is not what you really want. Solid anti-roll bar drop links do transmit a bit more road noise into the chassis but have nothing like the effect of rose jointing the suspension. That *is* something best left to the die-hards.Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff