Cleaning/detailing advice

[topless_mx5]

Need to get my dads car (E-class) nice and clean for a wedding next weekend. Was after a bit of advice as to what I should do? I'm thinking:

1. Wash using Autoglym shampoo conditioner thingy
2. Allow to dry (should I use a cloth to dry or just let it dry naturally?)
3. Polish using Autoglym super resin polish
4. Wax using some Meguires spray wax thing we have lying around
5. Hoover/clean interior

Don't really want to buy any more products as we already have these at home, although if I need to buy a claybar or a special cloth for drying then that is fine.

Should I bother claying the car? There are a few bug marks on the bonnet and front bumper, or is there a better way to get rid of these? Also, I've never used claybar so don't want to mess it up.

Simplicity is the key, don't want to spend more than 4 hrs really.

[TIGA84]

Get someone else to do it.

Seriously though, I've learned that cleaning a car has turned into an art form. I dont have the patience, so get someone else to do it!

[Tim Bomford]

Should be possible to do all that in 4hrs if you're a professional!
Claying is quite straightforward but make sure the clay is well lubed so it slides well and keep turning it in on itself as you use it.
Dont let the car dry naturally. Drying towels are the current best practice.
Good luck

[trickywoo]

I much prefer using autoglym polish than a clay bar and IMO it gives a better result.

I'd imagine there would be a fair bit of tar on the lower third, you can get this with polish but tar remover will do a much better / quicker job.

Don't forget to clean the galss inside and out, makes a big difference to the way the car looks.

[Paulo.dicanio]

You don't NEED a claybar but difference it makes is very notice to looks and touch of the paint. It is the best possible preparation for polishing. Given the car also I would certainly give it a clay. Bilt Hamber is very good clay to use as it only needs water as a lubricant, it is also very mild so you shouldn't marr the finish. Wash and rinse the car then begin claying without drying the car. Its good to have a suirtybottle of water as its important to keep the clay lubed. After claying wash the car again and dry with a decent Microfibre drying towel. It's relatively easy to do and if you are working quickly you could do this all in an hour or so, leaving yourself plenty of time for the polishing part.

It is hard to compare clay to Autoglym super resin polish as they are different products that do different jobs. Superresin polish will not remove the bonded on contaminants that the clay is designed to remove.

[topless_mx5]

Thanks for the advice. I think I will give claying a go.

Is it ok to use that Megs wax after applying Autoglyn srp?

[markbigears]

Yup, you will be fine

[trickywoo]

Paulo.dicanio said:

Superresin polish will not remove the bonded on contaminants that the clay is designed to remove.

Yes it will and IMO it does a better job of doing it and with less work than clay.

[PJ S]

trickywoo said:

Paulo.dicanio said:

Superresin polish will not remove the bonded on contaminants that the clay is designed to remove.

Yes it will and IMO it does a better job of doing it and with less work than clay.

Bonded on, yes, bonded in, no - but by the same token, SRP will harm paint by removing small amounts of it with its abrasives, whereas the clay bars can't since they are floating on a thin surface film of lubricating liquid.
Their abrasiveness is much, much, lower than that of SRP.

[trickywoo]

PJ S said:

trickywoo said:

Paulo.dicanio said:

Superresin polish will not remove the bonded on contaminants that the clay is designed to remove.

Yes it will and IMO it does a better job of doing it and with less work than clay.

Bonded on, yes, bonded in, no - but by the same token, SRP will harm paint by removing small amounts of it with its abrasives, whereas the clay bars can't since they are floating on a thin surface film of lubricating liquid.
Their abrasiveness is much, much, lower than that of SRP.

If you get a bit of grit unwittingly / unknowingly stuck in the clay you are more fked than you would be with srp. The amount of paint 'removed' by srp is so tiny as to be insignificant.

[Paulo.dicanio]

I guarantee a better finished will be attained by using both clay and SRP. If time only permits the use of one or other then SRP would be be the way to go. Saying that SRP (or basically any polish for that matter) will do the same job basically makes clay a redundant product(?) When really it should be used to offer the perfect prep for any polish stage.

[PJ S]

trickywoo said:

PJ S said:

trickywoo said:

Paulo.dicanio said:

Superresin polish will not remove the bonded on contaminants that the clay is designed to remove.

Yes it will and IMO it does a better job of doing it and with less work than clay.

Bonded on, yes, bonded in, no - but by the same token, SRP will harm paint by removing small amounts of it with its abrasives, whereas the clay bars can't since they are floating on a thin surface film of lubricating liquid.
Their abrasiveness is much, much, lower than that of SRP.

If you get a bit of grit unwittingly / unknowingly stuck in the clay you are more fked than you would be with srp. The amount of paint 'removed' by srp is so tiny as to be insignificant.

First of all, there should be no grit left on the car after washing and rinsed it, before taking the clay bar to it.
Secondly, because SRP is an abrasive, whilst it'll remove some clearcoat/paint, the main issue is it can cause it's own scratch marks if not properly worked.

I've used this analogy before, so forgive the repetition - a clay bar is akin to running a razor over your skin to clean the unwanted 'heads' causing blocked pores. SRP/polishing compound is a facial scrub which removes some skin cells, but does not unblock the pores, leaving the heads intact or level with the surface.
Once you can see that, then you can appreciate the difference between the two processes sometimes required on your paintwork.

[PJ S]

Paulo.dicanio said:

I guarantee a better finished will be attained by using both clay and SRP. If time only permits the use of one or other then SRP would be be the way to go. Saying that SRP (or basically any polish for that matter) will do the same job basically makes clay a redundant product(?) When really it should be used to offer the perfect prep for any polish stage.

Disagree - claying will make a big difference on the look and feel of the paintwork, especially when you have the likes of SRP/Autobalm/numerous others which have swirl masking properties.
Better to leave reduction of clearcoat/paint to remove the swirls/scratches every 4-6 months or more, as the reduction in paint thickness is something that needs to be managed with care, especially on clearcoated paints, where it is the shield for the paint layer from UV and bird/rain etchings, etc.
Your LSP becomes the sacrificial barrier/shield for the clearcoat or paint, if single stage like some red/blacks are, and the older cars.

[Paulo.dicanio]

Sorry I wasn't making myself very clear, I agree wit hwhat you have written. I was trying to emphasise the point that clay and SRP are two different products that will obviously improve the appearance of paint work but in different ways.. I just thought to someone who didn't fully understand this detailing malarky there is some slightly misleading info....

[PJ S]

Paulo.dicanio said:

Sorry I wasn't making myself very clear, I agree wit hwhat you have written. I was trying to emphasise the point that clay and SRP are two different products that will obviously improve the appearance of paint work but in different ways.. I just thought to someone who didn't fully understand this detailing malarky there is some slightly misleading info....

Yes, and I should clarify I meant disagreeing on SRP being the choice of product if time is limited.
Hence the follow-on about claying.
So, for me, and I'm sure others, claying will be the preferred method of sprucing up the paintwork (if the feel test shows it needs it of course) rather than SRP.