Boxster Brakes
Discussion
No - these are an aftermarket brand, I cannot remember the name (it was a right mouthful!!)
If I was to upgrade to the S brakes then the calipers would need replacing to. This would cost around a grand for the fronts and rears therefor out of my price range, espically this time of year!!
Cheers
SVG
If I was to upgrade to the S brakes then the calipers would need replacing to. This would cost around a grand for the fronts and rears therefor out of my price range, espically this time of year!!
Cheers
SVG
An interesting little look at these:
From www.4wdworld.com.au/tipstricks/disc.htm
CROSS-DRILLED & SLOTTED DISC ROTORS
WHAT'S THE STORY?
The recent rise is popularity of these discs has brought some confusion as to the performance of these discs, and which are suited for which purpose.
As we know normal brake discs have a smooth, flat surface. Holes and slots in the face of the disc have a number of purposes.
Firstly removing gases from the face of the disc, these gases greatly reduce the coefficient of friction. Disc pads, when hot, expel gases. These gases form a cushion between the face of the disc and the pad.
It takes a tenth of a second to squeeze these gases out on normal rotors. Now this does not sound like a long time, but consider this. When a vehicle is travelling at 100km/h, it is moving at a rate of 30 metres per second, therefore a tenth of a second is three metres. So in essence when the brakes are applied the vehicle travels for three metres squeezing out gases, and not creating friction to slow the vehicle.
Another problem that occurs when the build up of gases is not released is that the pad material becomes hardened and glazed, greatly reducing the amount of grip between the pad and disc. Cross-drilling and slotting allow these gases to be removed immediately, also helps to deglaze the pads, increasing the grip between the pad and disc, hence shortening the braking distance.
Cross-drilling and slotting makes the disc surface uneven so water and dust cannot develop into a thin layer that becomes a smooth, glass like surface and can greatly reduce the coefficient of friction.
Cross-drilling and slotting work effectively to reduce the main problems that occur in brake systems.
But there are some tradeoffs, such as a shorter pad life of approx. 10% so if your getting 40,000kms from a set of pads this can be reduced to 36,000 kms, a small price to pay for better braking performance. Also the cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking under extreme conditions, such as racing.
Both the cross-drilled and slotted and just slotted discs have the same performance qualities.
So the question is do I fit cross-drilled and slotted discs, or just slotted discs?
This question has to be asked of the driver, what is the main use of the vehicle?
Is the vehicle used for racing, or driven extremely hard?
Does the vehicle go off road?
If the answer is yes to either of these questions, slotted only discs should be recommended.
If the driver of the vehicle only drives on the street, but drives it hard occasionally, and has nice open wheels where the rotors would look good as well as perform, recommend the cross-drilled and slotted.
From www.4wdworld.com.au/tipstricks/disc.htm
CROSS-DRILLED & SLOTTED DISC ROTORS
WHAT'S THE STORY?
The recent rise is popularity of these discs has brought some confusion as to the performance of these discs, and which are suited for which purpose.
As we know normal brake discs have a smooth, flat surface. Holes and slots in the face of the disc have a number of purposes.
Firstly removing gases from the face of the disc, these gases greatly reduce the coefficient of friction. Disc pads, when hot, expel gases. These gases form a cushion between the face of the disc and the pad.
It takes a tenth of a second to squeeze these gases out on normal rotors. Now this does not sound like a long time, but consider this. When a vehicle is travelling at 100km/h, it is moving at a rate of 30 metres per second, therefore a tenth of a second is three metres. So in essence when the brakes are applied the vehicle travels for three metres squeezing out gases, and not creating friction to slow the vehicle.
Another problem that occurs when the build up of gases is not released is that the pad material becomes hardened and glazed, greatly reducing the amount of grip between the pad and disc. Cross-drilling and slotting allow these gases to be removed immediately, also helps to deglaze the pads, increasing the grip between the pad and disc, hence shortening the braking distance.
Cross-drilling and slotting makes the disc surface uneven so water and dust cannot develop into a thin layer that becomes a smooth, glass like surface and can greatly reduce the coefficient of friction.
Cross-drilling and slotting work effectively to reduce the main problems that occur in brake systems.
But there are some tradeoffs, such as a shorter pad life of approx. 10% so if your getting 40,000kms from a set of pads this can be reduced to 36,000 kms, a small price to pay for better braking performance. Also the cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking under extreme conditions, such as racing.
Both the cross-drilled and slotted and just slotted discs have the same performance qualities.
So the question is do I fit cross-drilled and slotted discs, or just slotted discs?
This question has to be asked of the driver, what is the main use of the vehicle?
Is the vehicle used for racing, or driven extremely hard?
Does the vehicle go off road?
If the answer is yes to either of these questions, slotted only discs should be recommended.
If the driver of the vehicle only drives on the street, but drives it hard occasionally, and has nice open wheels where the rotors would look good as well as perform, recommend the cross-drilled and slotted.
I personally wouldnt fit aftermarket drilled discs, yes they look better to some eyes, but it is generally accepted that grooved discs (also called slotted) are the better way to go in terms of heat disipation over solids. (I know we are already talking vented discs rather than a single solid one, but what I mean by solid is no slots or holes in the face)
Now many people have differing opinons on this & mine is but one, however most do agree that solid discs that are then cross drilled (rather than the holes being cast in in manufacturing)are a weaker structure than the original solid disc.
Also cross drilled's clog up with brake pad material that does need to be cleaned out regually, which is a bit of a time consuming pain.
Now many people have differing opinons on this & mine is but one, however most do agree that solid discs that are then cross drilled (rather than the holes being cast in in manufacturing)are a weaker structure than the original solid disc.
Also cross drilled's clog up with brake pad material that does need to be cleaned out regually, which is a bit of a time consuming pain.
iguana said:
I personally wouldnt fit aftermarket drilled discs, yes they look better to some eyes, but it is generally accepted that grooved discs (also called slotted) are the better way to go in terms of heat disipation over solids. (I know we are already talking vented discs rather than a single solid one, but what I mean by solid is no slots or holes in the face)
Now many people have differing opinons on this & mine is but one, however most do agree that solid discs that are then cross drilled (rather than the holes being cast in in manufacturing)are a weaker structure than the original solid disc.
Also cross drilled's clog up with brake pad material that does need to be cleaned out regually, which is a bit of a time consuming pain.
I agree Ig, i use the EBC dotted discs myself they are mainly grooved but also dotted (not drilled) have these on the front, and standard rear discs, i I feel the rears on the 944 are good enough as they are
Maycott said:
Do you notice much of an increase in performance Dontlift?
I've commented before that standard 944 brakes are surprisingly lacking in feel, does the EBC conversion make them any more progressive?
I'm guessing you have the green stuff pads too, is that so?
EBC Discs YES alot better when used hard, the Green Stuff pads are too soft and actually reduce feel so I am now running mintex pads and they are superb, also just replaced front calipers with new ones (still standard). lots more confidence to brake hard now
I've followed your example and will be running the 944 as a daily driver in the new year
Its in for a full service (including new clutch - ouch) and new belts but I wanted to to attend to the brakes. The components are all fairly new and in working order, but thats the least confidence inspiring area of the car - especially with 110 mile motorway commute.
I think I'll be ordering some more new bits...!
Its in for a full service (including new clutch - ouch) and new belts but I wanted to to attend to the brakes. The components are all fairly new and in working order, but thats the least confidence inspiring area of the car - especially with 110 mile motorway commute.
I think I'll be ordering some more new bits...!
Maycott said:
Good advice, cheers
I know you have only upgraded the rear discs, did you do the pads all round?
I am running standard read disc and pads, I tried the EBC green stuff pads in the rear but again too soft, I am considering moving to mintex pads on the back next time i change them
It seems clear to me you 944 boys have lots of options, it reminds me of the days when I had an Elise....arh they were the days
I was toying around with the idea of purchasing a 944 Turbo so I could play around with it, the Boxster at the moment is very limited for extras. What is the 944 like?? I know it is a broad question but a couple of lines would be appreciated.
SVG
I was toying around with the idea of purchasing a 944 Turbo so I could play around with it, the Boxster at the moment is very limited for extras. What is the 944 like?? I know it is a broad question but a couple of lines would be appreciated.
SVG
I bought a 944 turbo for exactly that reason. I wanted something cheap as a track car, which gave me plenty of options to learn about suspension / brakes etc
They are an astonishing bargain - 1 paid £3.5 for mine, which is in fantastic condition but is lhd.
The big pluses are: Firstly power - there are several ways of getting beyond 300 bhp all for hundreds not thousands. Secondly neutral handling - I have had a couple of 'offs' in the wet but everything is predictable. The handling will improve further I hope when we begin to stiffen it next year. Thirdly brakes on all but the earliest turbos are good and offer plenty of opportunity to upgrade without breaking the bank. The 86 cars didn’t have ABS and this can be a bit of pain on the track if things go wrong.
On the town side it is an 8 v 2.5 litre engine without the blower so it feels a bit lacking in umph until the turbo gets going. This takes a bit of getting used to, as the changeover is dramatic once the turbo spools up. If you are exiting a corner when this happen things get sideways very quickly indeed.
You do need to keep the revs up and for the first few months I expected the cylinder head o come flying through the bonnet - but apparently they all sound like that sir
On track not much gets past even a mildly sorted 944 turbo mainly due to its ability in corners
I drove mine to work yesterday - something I haven’t done for months and really enjoyed it.
IT has done 4 track days this year and a trip to Le Mans and hasn’t had a spanner on it. The best money I spent was on a set of p zero Cs which make the grip just comically good once they get hot.
If you want smooth and easy power many say the S2 is the better car if I drove it everyday that is the way I would go, but if you want plain daft and fancy a bit of track work then the turbo is the boy
James
They are an astonishing bargain - 1 paid £3.5 for mine, which is in fantastic condition but is lhd.
The big pluses are: Firstly power - there are several ways of getting beyond 300 bhp all for hundreds not thousands. Secondly neutral handling - I have had a couple of 'offs' in the wet but everything is predictable. The handling will improve further I hope when we begin to stiffen it next year. Thirdly brakes on all but the earliest turbos are good and offer plenty of opportunity to upgrade without breaking the bank. The 86 cars didn’t have ABS and this can be a bit of pain on the track if things go wrong.
On the town side it is an 8 v 2.5 litre engine without the blower so it feels a bit lacking in umph until the turbo gets going. This takes a bit of getting used to, as the changeover is dramatic once the turbo spools up. If you are exiting a corner when this happen things get sideways very quickly indeed.
You do need to keep the revs up and for the first few months I expected the cylinder head o come flying through the bonnet - but apparently they all sound like that sir
On track not much gets past even a mildly sorted 944 turbo mainly due to its ability in corners
I drove mine to work yesterday - something I haven’t done for months and really enjoyed it.
IT has done 4 track days this year and a trip to Le Mans and hasn’t had a spanner on it. The best money I spent was on a set of p zero Cs which make the grip just comically good once they get hot.
If you want smooth and easy power many say the S2 is the better car if I drove it everyday that is the way I would go, but if you want plain daft and fancy a bit of track work then the turbo is the boy
James
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