Cycling tips

[alfa pint]

I've just moved jobs and homes. I used to run to work (3 and a bit miles each way) but the new job is nearly 5 miles and it's a little extreme to run both ways.

I've got a road bike with decent thin tyres, but I'm not used to cycling at all. It's a 14 speed claud butler with toe clips. I'm struggling to work out which is the more efficient way of cycling on the slopes that I'm finding - is it better to drop the front cog onto the smaller one for the hill before working my way up the back ones to maintain cadence or the other way round?

Cheers for any help.

[ewenm]

I'd do as you suggest, maintaining cadence. On longer climbs switching between in-saddle and out-of-saddle helps to keep the momentum going, often allowing a higher gear when out of the saddle.

All that said, I'd still run rather than cycle.

[Get Karter]

alfa pint said:

I've just moved jobs and homes. I used to run to work (3 and a bit miles each way) but the new job is nearly 5 miles and it's a little extreme to run both ways.

I've got a road bike with decent thin tyres, but I'm not used to cycling at all. It's a 14 speed claud butler with toe clips. I'm struggling to work out which is the more efficient way of cycling on the slopes that I'm finding - is it better to drop the front cog onto the smaller one for the hill before working my way up the back ones to maintain cadence or the other way round?

Cheers for any help.

Depends on what ratios you have, but generally you don't want to be changing the front cogs (chainrings) when there is a lot of torque going through the chain (like when grinding up a steep hill), so change down to the smaller chain ring before the hill.

With experience, you'll know exactly what gear to select as the hill starts.

As suggested above, use both in-saddle and out-of-saddle to get you up longer hills.

I'd also suggest not changing gear during a climb if at all possible, as it interrupts the rhythm of a climb.

Edited by Get Karter on Wednesday 26th May 13:41

[zebedee]

ewenm said:

I'd do as you suggest, maintaining cadence. On longer climbs switching between in-saddle and out-of-saddle helps to keep the momentum going, often allowing a higher gear when out of the saddle.

All that said, I'd still run rather than cycle.

don't run unless chased. cycle. everywhere

[ewenm]

zebedee said:

ewenm said:

I'd do as you suggest, maintaining cadence. On longer climbs switching between in-saddle and out-of-saddle helps to keep the momentum going, often allowing a higher gear when out of the saddle.

All that said, I'd still run rather than cycle.

don't run unless chased. cycle. everywhere

I run past cyclists going up the hills in Bath

[dome]

I think it depends on personal style-I tend to have a higher cadence than most of my mates when cycling at the same speed. I've always gone with the idea that your correct cadence should initially feel a bit too fast-this puts less strain on your legs for climbing. Then again I use SPD's and try to follow the pedalling in a circle idea. Works for me...

[AyBee]

ewenm said:

zebedee said:

ewenm said:

I'd do as you suggest, maintaining cadence. On longer climbs switching between in-saddle and out-of-saddle helps to keep the momentum going, often allowing a higher gear when out of the saddle.

All that said, I'd still run rather than cycle.

don't run unless chased. cycle. everywhere

I run past cyclists going up the hills in Bath

Race? Much more fun coming down the hills in Bath on 2 wheels than 2 legs though

[ewenm]

AyBee said:

ewenm said:

zebedee said:

ewenm said:

I'd do as you suggest, maintaining cadence. On longer climbs switching between in-saddle and out-of-saddle helps to keep the momentum going, often allowing a higher gear when out of the saddle.

All that said, I'd still run rather than cycle.

don't run unless chased. cycle. everywhere

I run past cyclists going up the hills in Bath

Race? Much more fun coming down the hills in Bath on 2 wheels than 2 legs though

Very true!

[alfa pint]

dome said:

I think it depends on personal style-I tend to have a higher cadence than most of my mates when cycling at the same speed. I've always gone with the idea that your correct cadence should initially feel a bit too fast-this puts less strain on your legs for climbing. Then again I use SPD's and try to follow the pedalling in a circle idea. Works for me...

I am contemplating buying spds. I've only got one of the old fashioned toe clips on the bike, as I've used it a bit for riding around a busy city centre and needed to put a foot down. But my current route is pretty safe and isn't going to cause any concern.

Any tips for spds please, from those in the know? I get really frustrated getting overtaken by mountain bike riders with spds on when I'm on a road bike and should have a large edge.

[princeperch]

alfa pint said:

dome said:

I think it depends on personal style-I tend to have a higher cadence than most of my mates when cycling at the same speed. I've always gone with the idea that your correct cadence should initially feel a bit too fast-this puts less strain on your legs for climbing. Then again I use SPD's and try to follow the pedalling in a circle idea. Works for me...

I am contemplating buying spds. I've only got one of the old fashioned toe clips on the bike, as I've used it a bit for riding around a busy city centre and needed to put a foot down. But my current route is pretty safe and isn't going to cause any concern.

Any tips for spds please, from those in the know? I get really frustrated getting overtaken by mountain bike riders with spds on when I'm on a road bike and should have a large edge.

you have the CB Criterium? I have one of them too.

[hman]

alfa pint said:

dome said:

Any tips for spds please, from those in the know?

Tips:

Loosen the pedal tension right off when first using spd's.
Remember to twist to get out of SPD's, do not pull your foot back out of the pedal (like you would with a toe clip)
Take time to adjust your spd plate on your shoes to get the most comfortable feel from them.

On the road they are the best thing since sliced bread

[Stuart]

alfa pint said:

dome said:

Any tips for spds please, from those in the know? I get really frustrated getting overtaken by mountain bike riders with spds on when I'm on a road bike and should have a large edge.

Go for it. You just have to remember that the release movement is heel to the side (rather than pulling back or up) and with a bit of practice it'll feel completely natural. If you go for SPD SLs (the shimano road version of SPD) then make sure you go for the grey and yellow, rather than grey and red, cleats. The former allows for "float" where your heel can move laterally by up to 6 degrees. That's really important as it allows your foot to compensate for the natural lateral movement it needs when pedalling, and it is a little more forgiving if your cleats are slightly out of alignment on your shoes.

Also, I've tried a number of different road shoes. For <£100, Specialized road and MTB are the most comfortable things you can buy IMHO>