Converting a bedroom into a bathroom
Discussion
We are extending the back of the house and changing the existing bath into an ensuite and converting the small bed into the new bathroom, I want to start doing this now so we are never going to be without a bathroom during the building work. I'm also trying to save as much cash as possible so I can fund either a TVR or a Lotus at the end of it.
I've fitted one before but in that was replacing an existing suite and tiling over the existing tiles so this is a bit different.
Bedroom is just painted plastered walls and carpet over floor boards.
Any chance someone can give me an idiots guide into the steps needed to create a bathroom, including what materials I should be using to prep the walls/floor. There's the obvious plumbing requirement but that should be esay enough to sort by taking a feed from the existing bathroom that's just over the landing. Waste is easy enough to tap into too (down side of house).
Cheers.
I've fitted one before but in that was replacing an existing suite and tiling over the existing tiles so this is a bit different.
Bedroom is just painted plastered walls and carpet over floor boards.
Any chance someone can give me an idiots guide into the steps needed to create a bathroom, including what materials I should be using to prep the walls/floor. There's the obvious plumbing requirement but that should be esay enough to sort by taking a feed from the existing bathroom that's just over the landing. Waste is easy enough to tap into too (down side of house).
Cheers.
fulham911club said:
You will need building regs sign-off though...
Yep you're right. Bit of background......I have just received back plans from my Architect for the extension who is also going to do the planning app and building control application when I give him the nod on the final design.
The bathroom would form part of that application.
As long as it's installed as per his drawing I can't see that I need to do another application.
I'm considering cracking on with it - just in terms of stripping everything back and getting pipework in place.
Main thing I want to know is do I have to knock out the existing plasterboard and replace with "special" stuff designed to be in a wet environment. Or, can I just wack tiles on to the existing painted walls. Bearing in mind we will be here for a long time.
I expect the Architect's plans won't have the actual detail design of the plumbing arrangements. It will be left to the plumber on site to provide details to Building Control. If you're going to do the work yourself then you're best off getting the Building Control Officer around to discuss what's required. Don't be a bell-end and arque the toss just do as they ask.
You can see the thread about air-admitance valves as to how inconvenient a pony plumbing install can be.
Cement board is an excellent investment.
If the floor is suspended timber then re-structure it properly if you're planning on tiling the floor else the grout with crack along with the tiles. Don't rely on special 'tile over timber floor' compounds that aren't the wonder products they claim to be.
The electrics will need to be signed off by an independant 'qualified' person.
You can see the thread about air-admitance valves as to how inconvenient a pony plumbing install can be.
Cement board is an excellent investment.
If the floor is suspended timber then re-structure it properly if you're planning on tiling the floor else the grout with crack along with the tiles. Don't rely on special 'tile over timber floor' compounds that aren't the wonder products they claim to be.
The electrics will need to be signed off by an independant 'qualified' person.
dave_s13 said:
Main thing I want to know is do I have to knock out the existing plasterboard and replace with "special" stuff designed to be in a wet environment. Or, can I just wack tiles on to the existing painted walls. Bearing in mind we will be here for a long time.
Nope, just use bathroom paint on the exposed walls and tile elsewhere as normal.mk1fan said:
If the floor is suspended timber then re-structure it properly if you're planning on tiling the floor else the grout with crack along with the tiles. Don't rely on special 'tile over timber floor' compounds that aren't the wonder products they claim to be..
By this do you mean like floorboards? I tiled the 2 x bathroom floors in my house over 10 years ago and we simply pinned a sheet of thin hardboard over the floorboards and set the marble tiles on that, worked perfectly. RichB said:
mk1fan said:
If the floor is suspended timber then re-structure it properly if you're planning on tiling the floor else the grout with crack along with the tiles. Don't rely on special 'tile over timber floor' compounds that aren't the wonder products they claim to be..
By this do you mean like floorboards? I tiled the 2 x bathroom floors in my house over 10 years ago and we simply pinned a sheet of thin hardboard over the floorboards and set the marble tiles on that, worked perfectly. Not that it matters too much. You can't do fook all yourself nowadays without have to pay someone to come "sign it off"
What's the size of the joists in your floor? Is the room to which you're moving supported from beneath in any way?
We're doing a similar thing to you and moving the family bathroom into one of the old bedrooms when we build our extension. The problem we've got is that the part of the house into which the bathroom is moving is dated around 1830 so the joists are a teeny bit below size to take the weight - especially as the joists span the room below which is 5.25 metres wide, so no supporting walls below.
I had some great help from Camp Freddie on here who has his own Structural Engineering business and worked out the size of replacement joists I'd need (300x100 C16) so the bath, water, rubber duck, and O/H wouldn't drop into the sitting room!
Just a thought - you may not have the same issues if the house is more modern or the rooms are smaller etc.
Steve
We're doing a similar thing to you and moving the family bathroom into one of the old bedrooms when we build our extension. The problem we've got is that the part of the house into which the bathroom is moving is dated around 1830 so the joists are a teeny bit below size to take the weight - especially as the joists span the room below which is 5.25 metres wide, so no supporting walls below.
I had some great help from Camp Freddie on here who has his own Structural Engineering business and worked out the size of replacement joists I'd need (300x100 C16) so the bath, water, rubber duck, and O/H wouldn't drop into the sitting room!
Just a thought - you may not have the same issues if the house is more modern or the rooms are smaller etc.
Steve
By restructure I mean make it stable. Timber joists move alot and floor tiles don't like that.
Depending when the house was built it may have over sized floor joists and nice thick floor boards or the bear minimum sizes to supprt the weight.
At very least I'd do as the last post and screw at 150mm centres 12mm thick wbp ply over the existing floor boards. Personally, I'd lift the boards and discard them. Fit full depth noggin peices between the joists to tie them together. Then overlay with 28mm thick wbp ply screwed to the joists and noggins.
If you're intending on being there for a long time then remove any plasterboard in the 'wet areas' and replace it with cement board.
Have you thought about fitting electric underfloor heating?
Depending when the house was built it may have over sized floor joists and nice thick floor boards or the bear minimum sizes to supprt the weight.
At very least I'd do as the last post and screw at 150mm centres 12mm thick wbp ply over the existing floor boards. Personally, I'd lift the boards and discard them. Fit full depth noggin peices between the joists to tie them together. Then overlay with 28mm thick wbp ply screwed to the joists and noggins.
If you're intending on being there for a long time then remove any plasterboard in the 'wet areas' and replace it with cement board.
Have you thought about fitting electric underfloor heating?
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