New car owner...
Discussion
Hi,
Having been a long term dreamer I'm finally awaiting my brand new factory built 360R....can't wait!
Dispite following the marque for many years I'm still very green about ownership, so am at the start of quite a steep learning curve. As someone who likes, or should I say needs, to look after his toys I could do with a little guidance on how best to start.
I'm having paint protection applied prior to collection, so what else should I do? As already said I'd like to keep it in good order but Id also like to use it a little during the winter months.
I've heard of treating the grot traps, but where are they and what's the best way to do it? Also is painting the inner wheel arches with underseal still recommended to help prevent star-cracking? Is a quick jet wash underneath a good idea after a winter
I'm planning on using ACF-50 and the usual waxes etc to keep the external bits in good order.
So many questions I know but any advise would be greatly appreciated?
Cheers.
Having been a long term dreamer I'm finally awaiting my brand new factory built 360R....can't wait!
Dispite following the marque for many years I'm still very green about ownership, so am at the start of quite a steep learning curve. As someone who likes, or should I say needs, to look after his toys I could do with a little guidance on how best to start.
I'm having paint protection applied prior to collection, so what else should I do? As already said I'd like to keep it in good order but Id also like to use it a little during the winter months.
I've heard of treating the grot traps, but where are they and what's the best way to do it? Also is painting the inner wheel arches with underseal still recommended to help prevent star-cracking? Is a quick jet wash underneath a good idea after a winter
I'm planning on using ACF-50 and the usual waxes etc to keep the external bits in good order.
So many questions I know but any advise would be greatly appreciated?
Cheers.
congratulations - wonderful car.
-ACF-50 in the grot-trap and anywhere else you like. Also the inner CV-joints etc. I also blast it out with an airgun from time to time.
- I would paint under the wheel arches with rubber paint/roof sealant ASAP. I have several star cracks to repair in just a few thousand miles because I didn't do it in time.
- the nuts/bolts holding the front side indicators as well as the M5 bolts/20mm washers holding the rear wheel arches rust pretty quickly, replace with SS items (paint duralac on the washers though)
- my factory-built car had pretty woeful rear geo setup skewing to one side; easy enough to adjust, but maybe get the dealer to check; you might also get the geo setup with a little rake towards the front, and a little bit more front camber (1.5 to 1.75 for road?) as well than the factory setup.
- the plastic-ended factory radiator on mine started leaking pretty much from the get go (tell-tale dried white coolant on bonnet louvres); replaced it with an all-ali from radtec, no more problems. You could possibly get that from the factory or maybe you will be lucky and wont have a problem.
- the front sides of the bonnet tends to get pulled down a little too far (I think it's a case of TADTS) under spirited driving on bumpy roads; I glued some studs on to the chassis rails that slot into the holes on the front of the bonnet so it doesn't move around. There must be a better solution.
- if you didn't option the FIA trackday rollbar, probably cheaper to get it now, but easy enough to fit later.
- if you want 4-point harnesses (and you will), probably better to delete the seatbelts - there just isn't much room for both seatbelts and harnesses. Removing the standard belts means drilling out some rivets under the rear-wheel arches to reach and remove the inertia reels.
- most say 13" wheels are much better, I have the 14s; 13s can be optioned from new
- some say the 3.92 final drive ratio is better given the low top speed; a PITA if you decide to change later. I didn't know that at the time, so it's a future project for me; for the 360, the 3.62 ratio is probably fine.
- replace those nasty plastic tabs that hold the doors shut with leather tabs. Easy to make up. Little things like that make the car feel better.
- make a spare key - check the immobiliser - if you lose 1 of your 2 keys, you might need a dealer to make a duplicate. if you have 2, you can make a 3rd (at least for the ford ECU).
Good luck!
-ACF-50 in the grot-trap and anywhere else you like. Also the inner CV-joints etc. I also blast it out with an airgun from time to time.
- I would paint under the wheel arches with rubber paint/roof sealant ASAP. I have several star cracks to repair in just a few thousand miles because I didn't do it in time.
- the nuts/bolts holding the front side indicators as well as the M5 bolts/20mm washers holding the rear wheel arches rust pretty quickly, replace with SS items (paint duralac on the washers though)
- my factory-built car had pretty woeful rear geo setup skewing to one side; easy enough to adjust, but maybe get the dealer to check; you might also get the geo setup with a little rake towards the front, and a little bit more front camber (1.5 to 1.75 for road?) as well than the factory setup.
- the plastic-ended factory radiator on mine started leaking pretty much from the get go (tell-tale dried white coolant on bonnet louvres); replaced it with an all-ali from radtec, no more problems. You could possibly get that from the factory or maybe you will be lucky and wont have a problem.
- the front sides of the bonnet tends to get pulled down a little too far (I think it's a case of TADTS) under spirited driving on bumpy roads; I glued some studs on to the chassis rails that slot into the holes on the front of the bonnet so it doesn't move around. There must be a better solution.
- if you didn't option the FIA trackday rollbar, probably cheaper to get it now, but easy enough to fit later.
- if you want 4-point harnesses (and you will), probably better to delete the seatbelts - there just isn't much room for both seatbelts and harnesses. Removing the standard belts means drilling out some rivets under the rear-wheel arches to reach and remove the inertia reels.
- most say 13" wheels are much better, I have the 14s; 13s can be optioned from new
- some say the 3.92 final drive ratio is better given the low top speed; a PITA if you decide to change later. I didn't know that at the time, so it's a future project for me; for the 360, the 3.62 ratio is probably fine.
- replace those nasty plastic tabs that hold the doors shut with leather tabs. Easy to make up. Little things like that make the car feel better.
- make a spare key - check the immobiliser - if you lose 1 of your 2 keys, you might need a dealer to make a duplicate. if you have 2, you can make a 3rd (at least for the ford ECU).
Good luck!
You haven't put a region in your profile so can't suggest any, but pop along to a local Lotus 7 Club meet, or other local group meet.
I'd agree with above, just drive it and don't get too precious over it.
YOu will get chips and cracks here and there, but you can't see most of them when driving
(oh and don't replace the rear wing fixings with Stainless Steel! Use plastic bolts. That way when someone "parks" into you rear wing the bolt break before the fixings are ripped through the chassis skin!)
I'd agree with above, just drive it and don't get too precious over it.
YOu will get chips and cracks here and there, but you can't see most of them when driving
(oh and don't replace the rear wing fixings with Stainless Steel! Use plastic bolts. That way when someone "parks" into you rear wing the bolt break before the fixings are ripped through the chassis skin!)
Poopaconk said:
Hi,
Having been a long term dreamer I'm finally awaiting my brand new factory built 360R....can't wait!
Dispite following the marque for many years I'm still very green about ownership, so am at the start of quite a steep learning curve. As someone who likes, or should I say needs, to look after his toys I could do with a little guidance on how best to start.
I'm having paint protection applied prior to collection, so what else should I do? As already said I'd like to keep it in good order but Id also like to use it a little during the winter months.
I've heard of treating the grot traps, but where are they and what's the best way to do it? Also is painting the inner wheel arches with underseal still recommended to help prevent star-cracking? Is a quick jet wash underneath a good idea after a winter
I'm planning on using ACF-50 and the usual waxes etc to keep the external bits in good order.
So many questions I know but any advise would be greatly appreciated?
Cheers.
Ventureshield the front including wings. Having been a long term dreamer I'm finally awaiting my brand new factory built 360R....can't wait!
Dispite following the marque for many years I'm still very green about ownership, so am at the start of quite a steep learning curve. As someone who likes, or should I say needs, to look after his toys I could do with a little guidance on how best to start.
I'm having paint protection applied prior to collection, so what else should I do? As already said I'd like to keep it in good order but Id also like to use it a little during the winter months.
I've heard of treating the grot traps, but where are they and what's the best way to do it? Also is painting the inner wheel arches with underseal still recommended to help prevent star-cracking? Is a quick jet wash underneath a good idea after a winter
I'm planning on using ACF-50 and the usual waxes etc to keep the external bits in good order.
So many questions I know but any advise would be greatly appreciated?
Cheers.
Get the car flat floored and set up. Makes a massive difference and worth the money.
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