How to choose an used Caterham
Discussion
ForzaGilles said:
antonio.cocchi said:
Unfortunately straight cut, not Sincro, sequential....
In that case, I would go for the Superlight - that gearbox will be a pain on the road. The 6-speed gearbox in the Superlight is a joy to use, and the ratios are great. I used to own Superlight #115 - loved it 
Thanks for the kind offer - i'll be in touch when/if I come down
antonio.cocchi said:
Murph7355 said:
PS And ask them why the engine was rebuilt and by whom. Could have been head gasket failure...in which case you want some surety that the job was done right - there are various engine checks that can be done to ensure it's in good health (checking oil and coolant, specific head gasket tests for contamination, compression checks etc. None of which are invasive/take long) and it would be good to know if they used uprated parts, depending on what caused the need for rebuild).
Thanks a lot!I Will take some day too see of somethings else do on the market. There are not as many as I expected for sale....
But to me, this is a perfect "first Caterham" choice
ForzaGilles said:
antonio.cocchi said:
Unfortunately straight cut, not Sincro, sequential....
In that case, I would go for the Superlight - that gearbox will be a pain on the road. The 6-speed gearbox in the Superlight is a joy to use, and the ratios are great. I used to own Superlight #115 - loved it Thanks for the kind offer - i'll be in touch when/if I come down
The cars you are considering are 19+ years old so you will see a range, some which have been carefully preserved from new, some which have been rebuilt or have had thorough running maintenance, some which have been well used and are due some attention.
The small bore tubes rearward of the rear bulkhead often exhibit the worst of the rust but often the rest of the chassis is in good overall condition and an afternoon with a wire brush and some POR-15 solves most of the problem.
Antonio it will depend on your individual appetite to work on the car and improve it? The price is negotiable after all...
The small bore tubes rearward of the rear bulkhead often exhibit the worst of the rust but often the rest of the chassis is in good overall condition and an afternoon with a wire brush and some POR-15 solves most of the problem.
Antonio it will depend on your individual appetite to work on the car and improve it? The price is negotiable after all...
HustleRussell said:
The cars you are considering are 19+ years old so you will see a range, some which have been carefully preserved from new, some which have been rebuilt or have had thorough running maintenance, some which have been well used and are due some attention.
The small bore tubes rearward of the rear bulkhead often exhibit the worst of the rust but often the rest of the chassis is in good overall condition and an afternoon with a wire brush and some POR-15 solves most of the problem.
Antonio it will depend on your individual appetite to work on the car and improve it? The price is negotiable after all...
Work on my passion have never made me tired... But is my first 7 and my first fun car, and I'm afraid to buy something that make me regret to.The small bore tubes rearward of the rear bulkhead often exhibit the worst of the rust but often the rest of the chassis is in good overall condition and an afternoon with a wire brush and some POR-15 solves most of the problem.
Antonio it will depend on your individual appetite to work on the car and improve it? The price is negotiable after all...
andya7 said:
Antonio
Have you tried Luigi Bhorgi or Roberto Rizzo (both in Italy) for a car, maybe they can help?
(I could give you more details, but your settings don't allow private mail through here)
😊Have you tried Luigi Bhorgi or Roberto Rizzo (both in Italy) for a car, maybe they can help?
(I could give you more details, but your settings don't allow private mail through here)
Thanks but I can't afford a Caterham buyed in italy, Is very much more expensive.
My superlight (#105) has more than twice the mileage of that one, but nothing like that rust.
However, I only bought it a month ago and had to take the engine/gearbox out the day after I bought it as the clutch failed 3 miles from home! It is now back together - which was quite a lot of fun in some respects - but now it won't start, which is a real pain. I hope you know what you are doing with electrics if you do buy one!
However, I only bought it a month ago and had to take the engine/gearbox out the day after I bought it as the clutch failed 3 miles from home! It is now back together - which was quite a lot of fun in some respects - but now it won't start, which is a real pain. I hope you know what you are doing with electrics if you do buy one!
gashead1105 said:
My superlight (#105) has more than twice the mileage of that one, but nothing like that rust.
However, I only bought it a month ago and had to take the engine/gearbox out the day after I bought it as the clutch failed 3 miles from home! It is now back together - which was quite a lot of fun in some respects - but now it won't start, which is a real pain. I hope you know what you are doing with electrics if you do buy one!
So sorry for you. Finger cross😟However, I only bought it a month ago and had to take the engine/gearbox out the day after I bought it as the clutch failed 3 miles from home! It is now back together - which was quite a lot of fun in some respects - but now it won't start, which is a real pain. I hope you know what you are doing with electrics if you do buy one!
antonio.cocchi said:
That's very helpful to see the condition. That rust as James says is not unusual and actually very easy to deal with. It's only surface and can be sorted out. The dealer would almost certainly agree to get it done as part of a sale. There is also the area further forward at the side where the curve of the bodyskin turns square section. That's where the grot trap is and proper rot can happen. If that were bad then that's a real problem. So the car needs to be properly checked out. It's a fab spec car, but my enthusiasm for it is dented. For a proper dealer to be selling that and not spend half a day in the workshop rectifying it is pretty poor. That being said, it's a perfect spec car!Bert
That looks superficial on a car that's been used.
Get the vendor to sort it in the negotiated price.
The skins would be the bigger concern to me and where the tubes meet them. A wire brush and POR15 are one thing. Reskinning/respraying another.
Ask about the engine too.
As noted above, that car's over 20yrs old. Some compromised will be required.
Get the vendor to sort it in the negotiated price.
The skins would be the bigger concern to me and where the tubes meet them. A wire brush and POR15 are one thing. Reskinning/respraying another.
Ask about the engine too.
As noted above, that car's over 20yrs old. Some compromised will be required.
BertBert said:
antonio.cocchi said:
That's very helpful to see the condition. That rust as James says is not unusual and actually very easy to deal with. It's only surface and can be sorted out. The dealer would almost certainly agree to get it done as part of a sale. There is also the area further forward at the side where the curve of the bodyskin turns square section. That's where the grot trap is and proper rot can happen. If that were bad then that's a real problem. So the car needs to be properly checked out. It's a fab spec car, but my enthusiasm for it is dented. For a proper dealer to be selling that and not spend half a day in the workshop rectifying it is pretty poor. That being said, it's a perfect spec car!Bert
What do you think about this One?
Overview:
S3 Caterham Supersport 1.6 K series
First registered 1997, professionally built
38k miles
Yellow with black noseband and stripe
Upgraded to 155bhp
Engine & gearbox:
1.6 K series (running 155bhp)
5 speed
Lightweight flywheel
Direct to head throttle bodies QED/Jenvey
Programmable ECU and fully mapped
4 to 1 performance exhaust
Dry sump
Suspension and Brakes:
Height adjustable bilstien suspension
Wide track suspension arms
Uprated front anti-roll bar
Rear adjustable anti-roll bar
Dear Dion rear suspension
Exterior:
13" Anthracite 10 spoke Caterham alloys
Brand new Toyo R888R 6x13
Black pack
Trackday FIA rollbar
LED headlight bulbs
Rear high level brake light
Interior:
Tillet seats (drivers side adjustable)
Removable MOMO steering wheel
Heater
4 point harnesses
12V plug
Change up lights
Full weather kit included (hood, hood bag, side screens
Heated windscreen (new screen fitted 1y ago so no chips)
Maintenance:
During my care:
I have added/carried out:
Adjustable suspension platforms (carried out by Sevens and Classics)
Fitted change up lights (DRE lights)
Changed brake fluid - Comma 4 dot (4k miles ago)
Changed coolant - (1k miles ago)
Degreased and protected underside of car and chassis
Compression test (all readings spot on)
Changed thermostat to 82 degree (1k miles ago)
Upgraded headlamp bulbs to LED (very bright, much better if driving when it's dark)
Swapped to Racetech oil temp and mechanical pressure gauge
Brand new throttle and clutch cable come with the sale (I always carry these as have known to fail)
New front pads (Mintex 1144) 250 miles ago
Oil and filter change @ 39K miles
New battery @ 39K miles
The area I was talking about is in the front half of the car. If you look back from the front, the sideskin curves under the chassis. Then it changes to a hard angle. Around there is the grot trap where you can get the big rot.
The car you have listed details of sounds ok, but it depends on exact spec, condition and price.
Bert
The car you have listed details of sounds ok, but it depends on exact spec, condition and price.
Bert
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