Adjusting toe out settings

[MarchHare]

I've been doing the set up on the car and pretty much the last job I have to do is adjust the toe out. I've used the string box method (actually with a couple of lasers rather than string but in effect the same method) and have got it pretty close. Running it over the Gunson Trakrite guage confirms that the current setting is about parallel to maybe 10 minutes toe out.

I'd like to get it to around half a degree toe out but so far I have been undoing the ball joint on the toe link and rotating it to adjust it. This means I have to go a whole turn one way or another each time and this will change the toe setting by more than I want. Logically I should be able to undo the ball joint lock nut and rotate the steering rack tie rod but I don't know if this is possible. I'd expected there would be a flat machined into the tie rod to allow me to get a spanner on it and turn it but I can't see one.

Does anyone know whether fine adjustment of the toe is possible and if so how I should do it?

Cheers, Mark

[Shaun_E]

The old racks used to have flats on them but the new ones don't seem to and the tie rod is very difficult to rotate. Having said that it should be possible. You could try using the tie rod end (still done up tight against the lock nut) to rotate the tie rod and then loosen the end and move back to the correct position (I hope that makes sense).

[MarchHare]

It does make sense, thanks. Now that I know I'm not going to break anything by trying to rotate the tie rod I'll give it a go. Having done various searches on the forums I cant see any information on a simple relationship between turns of the rod and toe angle.

Trial and error I suppose.

Edited by MarchHare on Thursday 28th February 17:38

[Red Seven]

As Shaun said, the older racks have flats on the tie rods adjacent to the lock nuts.
The newer racks have flats hidden by the gaiters!
Cut off the tywraps that secure the gaiter to the tie rod, and slide the gaiter back to expose the flats. The tie rod will swivel easily in the rack end.

[MarchHare]

Spot on, as you say flats under the gaiter. Adjusted it last night. Took just under a full turn I'd say to go from zero toe to half a degree out. Well impressed with the Gunson Trakrite that I bought from e-bay for about £50. You just lay it on the garage floor, adjust the rack and push the car over the guage to get a reading. Seemed extremely accurate when compared to what I was getting on the string box method and a hell of a lot less pfaffing about!

[Finchy172]

MarchHare said:

Spot on, as you say flats under the gaiter. Adjusted it last night. Took just under a full turn I'd say to go from zero toe to half a degree out. Well impressed with the Gunson Trakrite that I bought from e-bay for about £50. You just lay it on the garage floor, adjust the rack and push the car over the guage to get a reading. Seemed extremely accurate when compared to what I was getting on the string box method and a hell of a lot less pfaffing about!

Yes but that only accounts the single axle not the rear in relation to the front.

Stringing is the most simple and effective way

[MarchHare]

But as you can't adjust the toe on the rear (other than by replacing the ears) the rear toe is not something that I'd ever really look at. Presumably the Trakrite could also measure toe on the rear so I'm not really sure what you would seek to check/adjust with the string box compared to what is achievable with the Trakrite.