Oh dear, it's begun....

Oh dear, it's begun....

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stig

Original Poster:

11,818 posts

285 months

Monday 18th December 2006
quotequote all
The wallet bashing that is. Somewhat foolhardy given that I've not got a car to install the bits on, but there's nothing like preparation! hehe

So a set of Tokico D-Spec's and a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter on their way from the US To be fair, I'm taking advantage of the fact that my sister is over there at the mo. staying with my family (not to mention the great exchange rate), so she's playing courier to bring them back (in plain wrapping

After a fair amount of research, I'm not going for a 'package' suspension setup. I opted for the Tokico's for the adjustability which should give me some track/road flexibility. I'm not sure what springs I'm going to fit to these, but I don't want to drop it too much if at all, (about 3/4 of an inch) as I don't want to change the stock geometry too much. Either Roush or Steeda I reckon.

Next on the list is rear ARB (sway bar) and LCA's (control arms - though some misname them trailing arms) - maybe adjustable panhard rod, but this will really be driven by where the rear ends up once the ride height it sorted. Tempted by Roush for these items, but really only as they're readily available over here (in the UK that is). I'd be interested in opinions on the lower control arms as there's a plethora of options out there! Would rather a 'street' setup, though firm, as the thought of full rose-joint makes my teeth chatter hehe Any recommends?

Wheels - well, I'm probably going to wait and see on these. The GT/CS comes with 18" polished 'bullitts', but I do hanker after some 'pimped' 20s - but don't want to bu99er up the ride. Foose Nitrous have me drooling - and the wife approves

You may think it's odd that I'm just lobbing all this kit on the car without living with it for a while, but from my limited experience driving the Mustang and pretty much everything I've read - there are a few 'must haves' to tighten the car up a bit.

Well, the short shifter was a bit of a treat, but I'm a sucker for anything that looks well engineered

Ah well, back to the research....

LuS1fer

41,140 posts

246 months

Tuesday 19th December 2006
quotequote all
stig said:

So a set of Tokico D-Spec's and a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter on their way from the US To be fair, I'm taking advantage of the fact that my sister is over there at the mo. staying with my family (not to mention the great exchange rate), so she's playing courier to bring them back (in plain wrapping


Good chhoice. She'd better be strong then as the suspension is not light, it's a big box and will exceed her luggage allowance. The shifter is manageable although she may take some stick (groan...)

stig said:
After a fair amount of research, I'm not going for a 'package' suspension setup. I opted for the Tokico's for the adjustability which should give me some track/road flexibility. I'm not sure what springs I'm going to fit to these, but I don't want to drop it too much if at all, (about 3/4 of an inch) as I don't want to change the stock geometry too much. Either Roush or Steeda I reckon.


The stock springs are too soft and allow forward and aft rocking. Great for recreating 60's chase scenes and maybe at the drag strip but heavy on the brakes. I used Roush springs and they're fine and give a good ride. They tend to lower the back more than the front as with most spring kits.

stig said:
Next on the list is rear ARB (sway bar) and LCA's (control arms - though some misname them trailing arms) - maybe adjustable panhard rod, but this will really be driven by where the rear ends up once the ride height it sorted. Tempted by Roush for these items, but really only as they're readily available over here (in the UK that is). I'd be interested in opinions on the lower control arms as there's a plethora of options out there! Would rather a 'street' setup, though firm, as the thought of full rose-joint makes my teeth chatter hehe Any recommends?


The stock sway bar isn't too bad and I haven't felt the need to upgrade mine. In addition, the front sway bar is hollow IIRC and aftermarket stuff tends to be solid and a lot heavier. I did replace them on my Z28 and it did corner flatter but the downside at the back is that a stiffer bar means the back end will let go far more suddenly. The APB is only necessary to correct and centre the axle on a big drop otherwise it's not needed. If you go for LCAs, I would recommend www.bmrfabriaction.com which do what it says on the tin. I have Metco billet arms and they creak annoyingly - the BMRs on my Z28 never gave me any trouble at all although this could possibly be a Mustang problem, who knows. They are stronger than the stock pressed steel items and have harder bushings for less flex. Anything that keeps the axle in check is good. Don't be tempted by rose joints as they tend to be noisy. On the Roush price list I have (UK), they don't offer LCAs IIRC.

stig said:
Wheels - well, I'm probably going to wait and see on these. The GT/CS comes with 18" polished 'bullitts', but I do hanker after some 'pimped' 20s - but don't want to bu99er up the ride. Foose Nitrous have me drooling - and the wife approves


Stock bullitt wheels are pretty good and really suit the Mustang. If I were you, I'd probably stick with the 18's and buy some really good rubber like Goodyear F1's or Dunlop Powermaxx. You can increase the width if the rims are wide enough but you can get 255's on an 8" rim and 275s on a 9" rim. Don't worry about ruining the ride - it doesn't. I really can't tell the difference. You can also fit upgraded brakes on the 18's which would be money better spent. I changed my wheels as I had the ugly GT wheels.

stig said:
You may think it's odd that I'm just lobbing all this kit on the car without living with it for a while, but from my limited experience driving the Mustang and pretty much everything I've read - there are a few 'must haves' to tighten the car up a bit.


I would agree. I had a full garage of stuff waiting to be fitted. I drove it for a few weeks stock but it was fairly obvious where the improvements needed to be made. Regrettably, the wheels preclude any big brake upgrade but at least the 20's put a lot more cooling air around the discs.

stig said:
Well, the short shifter was a bit of a treat, but I'm a sucker for anything that looks well engineered


Any short shifter is an improvement over the rubbery stock item.

stig said:
Ah well, back to the research....


When you've researched it all, agonised over it, decided and have it, you'll still be wondering whether you should have bought something else. It's a no win other man's grass situation.

stig

Original Poster:

11,818 posts

285 months

Tuesday 19th December 2006
quotequote all
Thanks (as usual) Wayne.

Re. the Roush adjustable LCA's - they're not that obvious from the website (hidden in fact?), but the link is here: http://store.roushperformance.com/det

That said, they're rosejointed - so too harsh for me.

Given that the dealer I'm using is a Roush agent, it makes sense for me to go that route for the other bits (springs, sway bars, LCAs etc. - nice billet ones). There's a limit as to how much my sister can bring back but she works for the airlines so can bring up to 32kg. We'll see whether she thanks me for it when she returns!

Had some other good news today - just heard that the importer has sourced a vehicle that's the exact spec. I wanted! So no special order required if it's all good

The nett result it that I hope to have it here in 6-8 weeks!!! eek spin

Edited by stig on Tuesday 19th December 17:23

LuS1fer

41,140 posts

246 months

Wednesday 20th December 2006
quotequote all
Well like I say, I would consider not having the billet LCAs if mine are anything to go by. I just can't figure why they creak unless it's their physical squareness (BMRs et al are round). Good news on finding car to your spec though.

stig

Original Poster:

11,818 posts

285 months

Wednesday 20th December 2006
quotequote all
LuS1fer said:
Well like I say, I would consider not having the billet LCAs if mine are anything to go by. I just can't figure why they creak unless it's their physical squareness (BMRs et al are round). Good news on finding car to your spec though.


Yup - fingers crossed! Am awaiting final confirmation of the specs.

Fortunately, there's a local Mustang Specialist near where my family live in Houston who stock all the BMR stuff. I'm due to go out there soon, so could be some excess baggage coming back

Keep going round the houses with superchargers though! It breaks down into a number of pros and cons - but there doesn't seem to be a 'wrong' choice. The way I see it:

Vortech/Paxton - centrifugal with gobloads of power (462hp), but take a while to spin up so maybe lacking a little in immediate 'shove in the back' feeling. Perhaps a little more considerate to the drivetrain. Warranty available.

Roush - roots (up to 427hp), warrantied, but not the most attractive of kit! Instant torque, but perhaps more parasitic than the centrifugals. Air charge gets hotter with use (this was my experience on my Weiand too), so power drops during prolonged abuse

Twin screw - Saleen, Whipple (Ford Racing), Kenne Bell - all great by most accounts. Internally charge cooled, so more consistent power delivery. But this perhaps brings the question of how much is too much? The 'safe' operating margin for the 3V engine seems to be 400ft/lbs torque and up to 450hp (US hp that is). No UK support that I've found so far, so no warranty (anyone know different?).

Roots Hybrid - Magnacharger. 3 rotor roots with 60 degree helix, so a hybrid between a roots and screw (forced induction and compression). Trying to find some reports on this unit along with UK support. Magnacharger are OE fitment on a fair number of cars and Eaton's credentials are well established. They claim very little parasitic loss, with good power gains. Jury's out on this until I have more info.

Now, I'm pretty keen on getting a warranty with this as I'd rather not have the inconvenience of having to rebuild a 3V engine here in the UK (and I can't exactly post it back ). This really only leaves the Roush and the Vortech in the frame. They both have their merits and I really can't decide between them! The 400-450hp (and the figure does vary depending on who you speak to) 'safe' operating figure is interesting and I'd rather not get into having to replace the rods and crank. 420hp is a nice 'middle' figure and is ample for what I'm after on the road. The dealer I'm sourcing from is also a Roush distributor, so this makes the Roush perhaps a more convenient option.

Ah well, it's not going to be an immediate mod any way (will probably add a cold air intake to the stock car first and see how it goes), so more research I guess

LuS1fer

41,140 posts

246 months

Wednesday 20th December 2006
quotequote all
Hmmm, cold air intake's not cheap and will become superfluous when you fit the charger though (usually...).

The way I look at it is that we blokes over-analyse things to the nth degree but at the end of the day, you can't have them all and whatever you choose will have good and bad points. The question is will you regret it? As long as it goes like stink, probably not. Whilst I wonder at whether low downn torque would be better and funnier in a wheelspin sort of way, I know it means compromising the top end rush. I haven't yet been caught wishing I had more power or being caught short. I'm sure it will come but I'm not sure I'm overly bothered because all cars are compromises somewhere. It's like a game of Top Trumps where you neeed to optimise your card to cover most things.

stig

Original Poster:

11,818 posts

285 months

Wednesday 20th December 2006
quotequote all
LuS1fer said:
Hmmm, cold air intake's not cheap and will become superfluous when you fit the charger though (usually...).

The way I look at it is that we blokes over-analyse things to the nth degree but at the end of the day, you can't have them all and whatever you choose will have good and bad points. The question is will you regret it? As long as it goes like stink, probably not. Whilst I wonder at whether low downn torque would be better and funnier in a wheelspin sort of way, I know it means compromising the top end rush. I haven't yet been caught wishing I had more power or being caught short. I'm sure it will come but I'm not sure I'm overly bothered because all cars are compromises somewhere. It's like a game of Top Trumps where you neeed to optimise your card to cover most things.


Wise words Wayne, wise words yes

I hear what you're saying regarding the CAI, but I'm working on the basis that I may be able to offload it on eBay (though the predator will be locked to my ECU I guess!). Probably an area I'm getting a bit ahead of myself with. Will start stock and then see whether I think it's lacking and if so, by how much....

Edited by stig on Wednesday 20th December 12:32

LuS1fer

41,140 posts

246 months

Wednesday 20th December 2006
quotequote all
LOL. I asometimes think the Mustang is a very ggod car and we are guilty of over-compensating to "show those bastards they're all wrong". After all, no harm in beating them but if we can annihilate them, so much the better.

stig

Original Poster:

11,818 posts

285 months

Wednesday 20th December 2006
quotequote all
LuS1fer said:
LOL. I asometimes think the Mustang is a very ggod car and we are guilty of over-compensating to "show those bastards they're all wrong". After all, no harm in beating them but if we can annihilate them, so much the better.


Agreed! Like you, I feel like I'm waging a 1 man war against the UK motoring world at the moment to set the story straight regarding US cars. They CAN handle and they GO like stink

Have been wading through the MOSCG forums - some great stuff there. Intersting stuff from Gibbo regarding his Saleen s/c install. I'd be rather concerned about the stock engine taking that sort of power for long, irrespective of tune. At the end of the day, a tune will stop the pistons from holing, but won't do a lot to stop conrods/cranks/journals from breaking!