Macro Photo thread
Discussion
Male Common Darter....
Raynox D150 mounted on 70-200 f4
DSC_7181 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
DSC_7182 (4) by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
Raynox D150 mounted on 70-200 f4
DSC_7181 by Glynn Hobbs, on FlickrDSC_7182 (4) by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
White Tailed Skimmer....
DSC_7302_00010 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
DSC_7319_00015 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
DSC_7302_00010 by Glynn Hobbs, on FlickrDSC_7319_00015 by Glynn Hobbs, on FlickrEdited by Vintage Racer on Sunday 30th June 10:26
Come on............can't a guy get some privacy around here!!
DSC_7894_00001 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
DSC_7894_00001 by Glynn Hobbs, on FlickrBee Fly taking an in-flight pee......
DSC_8001_00001 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
photoblog; imageweaver.blogspot.com
DSC_8001_00001 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickrphotoblog; imageweaver.blogspot.com
Good to see you getting some bee's up there Mike. 
White Crab Spider this afternoon.....
DSC_8136 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
White Crab Spider this afternoon.....
DSC_8136 by Glynn Hobbs, on Flickr
Some amazing photos on here!!
1st attempts at macro for me. Here's an example...
A6300 with the stock 18-135 lens and the standard macro setting. I also have a Sony SAL55-300mm A mount with a LAEA4 e-mount adapter.
Looks like the depth of field is very narrow, leaving the wing in focus, but not the tail (I had to take this at an angle so the tail is closer to me). Any tips/pointers on what settings to use, what focal lengths etc?
1st attempts at macro for me. Here's an example...
A6300 with the stock 18-135 lens and the standard macro setting. I also have a Sony SAL55-300mm A mount with a LAEA4 e-mount adapter.
Looks like the depth of field is very narrow, leaving the wing in focus, but not the tail (I had to take this at an angle so the tail is closer to me). Any tips/pointers on what settings to use, what focal lengths etc?
Good effort Chris 
Depth of Field as you have spotted is the big issue - to maximise DOF you'll want a small aperture eg f16 but all other things being equal this will give you a shutter which is too slow (as you might move and the bug probably will too!)
To overcome this most macro shooters use flash - I typically go for manual mode with 1/200 (max flash sync speed for my camera) + f16 + iso 200/400ish with flash on ETTL mode.
The downside of this is you can get a harsh light with nasty reflections - so most folk use some kind of diffuser to soften the light - something as simple as a paper plate will do the job.
Good Luck
Depth of Field as you have spotted is the big issue - to maximise DOF you'll want a small aperture eg f16 but all other things being equal this will give you a shutter which is too slow (as you might move and the bug probably will too!)
To overcome this most macro shooters use flash - I typically go for manual mode with 1/200 (max flash sync speed for my camera) + f16 + iso 200/400ish with flash on ETTL mode.
The downside of this is you can get a harsh light with nasty reflections - so most folk use some kind of diffuser to soften the light - something as simple as a paper plate will do the job.
Good Luck
Thanks DD!
I have a separate (quality) flash with a built in diffuser panel, but didn't think to use it... not that it would have worked for that shot with the window in the background.
So I should use aperture priority, set to f16, and make sure I fix ISO at 200-400... not sure what the max sync speed is on the A6300, but I think it's at least 1/200.
Looking forward to getting another opportunity
I have a separate (quality) flash with a built in diffuser panel, but didn't think to use it... not that it would have worked for that shot with the window in the background.
So I should use aperture priority, set to f16, and make sure I fix ISO at 200-400... not sure what the max sync speed is on the A6300, but I think it's at least 1/200.
Looking forward to getting another opportunity
Sounds about right - I use full manual but aperture priority will also work. A lot of it is trial and error and finding what works for you.
You'll not be able to get that close with your 18-135 so if you get into it you'll probably want a prime lens (something like a 100mm) or maybe try something like a Raynox (clip on macro adapter - sounds crap but they work well and are not expensive)
It can be very hit or miss so don't get too despondent if you don't get many great shots - I very often spend an hour or two and come back with nothing decent at all!
You'll not be able to get that close with your 18-135 so if you get into it you'll probably want a prime lens (something like a 100mm) or maybe try something like a Raynox (clip on macro adapter - sounds crap but they work well and are not expensive)
It can be very hit or miss so don't get too despondent if you don't get many great shots - I very often spend an hour or two and come back with nothing decent at all!
DibblyDobbler said:
Sounds about right - I use full manual but aperture priority will also work. A lot of it is trial and error and finding what works for you.
You'll not be able to get that close with your 18-135 so if you get into it you'll probably want a prime lens (something like a 100mm) or maybe try something like a Raynox (clip on macro adapter - sounds crap but they work well and are not expensive)
It can be very hit or miss so don't get too despondent if you don't get many great shots - I very often spend an hour or two and come back with nothing decent at all!
You forgot to mention that it's a slippery slope and you'll spend more and more hours chasing the little blighters.You'll not be able to get that close with your 18-135 so if you get into it you'll probably want a prime lens (something like a 100mm) or maybe try something like a Raynox (clip on macro adapter - sounds crap but they work well and are not expensive)
It can be very hit or miss so don't get too despondent if you don't get many great shots - I very often spend an hour or two and come back with nothing decent at all!
A couple from today
ichneuman wasp by Nigel Eite, on Flickr
Mint Moth by Nigel Eite, on Flickr
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