S SERIES 1, 1.5 OR WHAT ?
Discussion
,
NEW TO ALL THIS AND JUST JOINED UP. Sorry for the capital letters i have been put right by a member.
I BROUGHT A S SERIES 1 1988 V6, 65.000 MILES, SOME SERVICE HISTORY AND A YEARS MOT IN OCTOBER 2010, OUT AND ABOUT IN IT A FEW TIMES BUT A FEW RATTLES AND WEID NOISES SO IN THE GARAGE AND UP ON AXLE STANDS TO CHECK OVER.
SURFACE RUST ONLY ON THE CHASSIS OF WHICH I WILL TREAT AND SPRAY ON A UNDERBODY SEALANT, CHANGING REAR BRAKE SHOES AND ALL BRAKE HOSES, FRONT ALL OK.
ON THE ENGINE SIDE I AM CHANGING ALL SERVICE BITS INCLUDING INGNITION LEADS TO SILICONE, DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR ARM,IT HAS A NEW RADIATOR BUT AS WITH ALL THESE FORD ENGINES WATER LEAKS AROUND THE HOSE JOINTS, SO CHANGING ALL HOSES I CAN TO SILICONE AND SEALING WITH SILICONE SEALANT, ALSO CHANGING ALL AIR DUCTING WITH SILICONE PIPES, ANY THING ELSE I SHOULD BE DOING ?.
NOW FOR THE 'OR WHAT BIT', REMOVED THE EXAUST TO CHECK GEARBOX OIL AND CHASSIS TO FIND THE PROPSHAFT UJ'S RED WITH RUST AND WORN, OK NO PROBLEM REMOVE PROPSHAFT AND CHANGE,
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
SOME MORE 'OR WHAT BITS' MINE HAS THE CHROME BAND AROUND THE BUMPERS, ALSO IT HAS TWO BRAKE HOSES AT THE REAR, ALL THE KITS FOR MY CAR COME WITH ONE ? WILL THE SERIES 2 FIT ? I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THE FITMENTS ARE DIFFERENT ? IT ALSO HAS A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WHERE IN STEVE HEATH BOOK 'THE TVR S SERIES' IT STATES THAT THIS IS A FUEL FILTER, IN THE TVR PARTS CATALOGUE IT STATES THAT THE REGULATOR IS FOR CATALYST MODELS ONLY OF WHICH MINE IS NOT ONE ?.
ANY HELP WILL BE GRATEFULLY RECEIVED, MANY THANKS. PAUL.
NEW TO ALL THIS AND JUST JOINED UP. Sorry for the capital letters i have been put right by a member.
I BROUGHT A S SERIES 1 1988 V6, 65.000 MILES, SOME SERVICE HISTORY AND A YEARS MOT IN OCTOBER 2010, OUT AND ABOUT IN IT A FEW TIMES BUT A FEW RATTLES AND WEID NOISES SO IN THE GARAGE AND UP ON AXLE STANDS TO CHECK OVER.
SURFACE RUST ONLY ON THE CHASSIS OF WHICH I WILL TREAT AND SPRAY ON A UNDERBODY SEALANT, CHANGING REAR BRAKE SHOES AND ALL BRAKE HOSES, FRONT ALL OK.
ON THE ENGINE SIDE I AM CHANGING ALL SERVICE BITS INCLUDING INGNITION LEADS TO SILICONE, DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR ARM,IT HAS A NEW RADIATOR BUT AS WITH ALL THESE FORD ENGINES WATER LEAKS AROUND THE HOSE JOINTS, SO CHANGING ALL HOSES I CAN TO SILICONE AND SEALING WITH SILICONE SEALANT, ALSO CHANGING ALL AIR DUCTING WITH SILICONE PIPES, ANY THING ELSE I SHOULD BE DOING ?.
NOW FOR THE 'OR WHAT BIT', REMOVED THE EXAUST TO CHECK GEARBOX OIL AND CHASSIS TO FIND THE PROPSHAFT UJ'S RED WITH RUST AND WORN, OK NO PROBLEM REMOVE PROPSHAFT AND CHANGE,
COULD NOT REMOVE PROPSHAFT, THE INNER CHASSIS BOX SECTIONS HAS GOT A CROSS MEMBER JOINING THE TWO TOGETHER ABOUT 3 INCHES FROM THE REAR AXLE FLANGE SO YOU COULD NOT DROP IT OUT. I DROPPED THE GEARBOX MOUNTING'S TO GIVE ME A BIT OF EXTRA ROOM BUT STILL NO JOY. LOOKING AT PICTURES OF S SERIES 1 AND 2 CHASSIS THE CROSS MEMBER IS NOT THERE, BUT ON THE S3 V8 IT IS, BUT THIS IS NOT A PROBLEM HERE AS THE PROPSHAFT BOLTS ON AT BOTH ENDS, ANY IDEAS WITH OUT REMOVING THE ENGING OR AXLE AS I DO NOT THINK YOU COULD REMOVE ONLY THE GEARBOX DUE TO THE SPLINE IN THE ENGINE.
SOME MORE 'OR WHAT BITS' MINE HAS THE CHROME BAND AROUND THE BUMPERS, ALSO IT HAS TWO BRAKE HOSES AT THE REAR, ALL THE KITS FOR MY CAR COME WITH ONE ? WILL THE SERIES 2 FIT ? I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT THE FITMENTS ARE DIFFERENT ? IT ALSO HAS A FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WHERE IN STEVE HEATH BOOK 'THE TVR S SERIES' IT STATES THAT THIS IS A FUEL FILTER, IN THE TVR PARTS CATALOGUE IT STATES THAT THE REGULATOR IS FOR CATALYST MODELS ONLY OF WHICH MINE IS NOT ONE ?.
ANY HELP WILL BE GRATEFULLY RECEIVED, MANY THANKS. PAUL.
If you are changing the hoses to silicone I would consider changing the steel water pipes for stainless, much prettier and wont rust, ditto swirl pot. But i would caution against using sealant, just keep tightening hoses after fitting as the do tend to slip but once settled down should be fine, BTW the 'otter' switch will need changing to the later type if you fit SS pipes.
Chrome around bumpers could indicate S1.5 but what engine do you have, 2.8 or 2.9 but dont go by description on the V5 TVR had a habit of registering 2.9 cars as 280S. Not sure about 2.8 but 2.9 had fuel regulator on the back of the fuel rail and a filter between the fuel pump anf the regulator.
For brake hoses talk to phillpot he knows who to speak to!!
Chrome around bumpers could indicate S1.5 but what engine do you have, 2.8 or 2.9 but dont go by description on the V5 TVR had a habit of registering 2.9 cars as 280S. Not sure about 2.8 but 2.9 had fuel regulator on the back of the fuel rail and a filter between the fuel pump anf the regulator.
For brake hoses talk to phillpot he knows who to speak to!!
Thank's for the reply's.
i think my engine is a 2.8 as all the service bits i have brought for this engine fit, ie oil and fuel filters, unless they fit a 2.9 also.
As for the waterpipes and pressure tank, i have stripped them back to bare metal and sprayed them with a lot of good primer and put a top coat of Chrome Aluminum Spray Enamel,looks good but lets see how long it lasts, i did this because of the switch, but now i know.
My fuel regulator is after the pump and the fuel filter is up in the engine bay attached to the engine.
Propshaft.
I was going to hacksaw a 4 inch piece out of the cross member leaving 2 inches either side to bolt back two steel channels that inter link with 2 s/s m8 bolts each side. This would make removal easier next time and for the removal of the gearbox.
Thank's
Paul.
i think my engine is a 2.8 as all the service bits i have brought for this engine fit, ie oil and fuel filters, unless they fit a 2.9 also.
As for the waterpipes and pressure tank, i have stripped them back to bare metal and sprayed them with a lot of good primer and put a top coat of Chrome Aluminum Spray Enamel,looks good but lets see how long it lasts, i did this because of the switch, but now i know.
My fuel regulator is after the pump and the fuel filter is up in the engine bay attached to the engine.
Propshaft.
I was going to hacksaw a 4 inch piece out of the cross member leaving 2 inches either side to bolt back two steel channels that inter link with 2 s/s m8 bolts each side. This would make removal easier next time and for the removal of the gearbox.
Thank's
Paul.
If you're planning to use silicone hoses for the engine air intake pipes then you need to be aware that ordinary silicone hose is not petrol/oil resistant. You need to pay a little more for hose with a fluorocarbon lining ("fluoro silicone").
You don't need to use any sealant to fit silicone hoses, but you do need to make sure the spigots are clean and well finished (they're more vulnerable to damage than rubber hoses) and make sure you use all new stainless clamps (T bolt clamps much preferred over worm drive clamps) and remember to tighten them all weekly for the first few weeks because they will creep.
You don't need to use any sealant to fit silicone hoses, but you do need to make sure the spigots are clean and well finished (they're more vulnerable to damage than rubber hoses) and make sure you use all new stainless clamps (T bolt clamps much preferred over worm drive clamps) and remember to tighten them all weekly for the first few weeks because they will creep.
I don't get this 'S 1.5' malarkey. How i remember it in 1988 , is that the S1 came with Windup Windows, Digital Clock Incorporated in to the Heater Controls and OZ five spoke wheels. There was a revision to incorporate the Round Analogue Clock in June that year with an option for electric windows.
S2 came with 2.9 Efi engine with Electric windows, Chrome bumper trim and 8 Spoke Wheels in 1989. I was offered one of these when i bought my S1 at the time for £15.000.
S2 came with 2.9 Efi engine with Electric windows, Chrome bumper trim and 8 Spoke Wheels in 1989. I was offered one of these when i bought my S1 at the time for £15.000.
Edited by ThePrisoner on Tuesday 7th February 19:16
my site www.gbsportscar.com has some good tips on removing the propshaft as you have asked in the general forum. It will only take you 20 minutes + time to remove exhaust if you follow my route rather than the 6 hours it took Kev in the thread Andrew has pointed you at
Kev and I have had a few discussions on this one
Kev and I have had a few discussions on this one
The "regulator" you are referring to at the rear of the S1 is in fact a fuel accumulator. This is a standard part of the old mechanical Bosch K type injection system used on the 2.8 engine.
See http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm for further details.
See http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm for further details.
ThePrisoner said:
I don't get this 'S 1.5' malarkey. How i remember it in 1988 , is that the S1 came with Windup Windows, Digital Clock Incorporated in to the Heater Controls and OZ five spoke wheels. There was a revision to incorporate the Round Analogue Clock in June that year with an option for electric windows.
S2 came with 2.9 Efi engine with Electric windows, Chrome bumper trim and 8 Spoke Wheels in 1989. I was offered one of these when i bought my S1 at the time for £15.000.
My S has a 2.9 engine, chrome trim, 8 spoke wheels and was first registered in 1989. But it has manual windows and an S1 trailing arm so it squats like a pooing puppy when you put your foot down!S2 came with 2.9 Efi engine with Electric windows, Chrome bumper trim and 8 Spoke Wheels in 1989. I was offered one of these when i bought my S1 at the time for £15.000.
Edited by ThePrisoner on Tuesday 7th February 19:16
I think mine is an S1.5, or rather an S2 with a few S1 left overs.
Once again thanks for the replies,
I tried for a couple of hours removing the propshaft like mep 12345 said, even disconnected the hand brake cable to give that little bit more room, mine would not go on the top of the axle, the more space was to the right by the brake lines, remember mine is a S1.
I understand what The prisoner means but why has my S1 got so many different bits, ie 2 rear brake hoses, maybe a S3 chassis and chrome trim on the bumpers, this is without starting on the inside.
Thanks jwoffshore for the info on the accumulator you can't believe all you read in these books !!
I tried for a couple of hours removing the propshaft like mep 12345 said, even disconnected the hand brake cable to give that little bit more room, mine would not go on the top of the axle, the more space was to the right by the brake lines, remember mine is a S1.
I understand what The prisoner means but why has my S1 got so many different bits, ie 2 rear brake hoses, maybe a S3 chassis and chrome trim on the bumpers, this is without starting on the inside.
Thanks jwoffshore for the info on the accumulator you can't believe all you read in these books !!
PAULS S said:
but why has my S1 got so many different bits, ie 2 rear brake hoses?
All the S Series cars with drum brakes have 2 rear flexible hoses (disc drake = 4). A lot of suppliers have got it wrong (maybe their catalogues refer to the Vixen S?)www.stevsonmotors.co.uk are very knowledgeable and helpful.
PAULS S said:
I understand what The prisoner means but why has my S1 got so many different bits, ie 2 rear brake hoses, maybe a S3 chassis and chrome trim on the bumpers, this is without starting on the inside.
I have an S1 chassis and I have 2 brake hoses at the rear. chassis to trailing arm, small section of copper pipe then trailing arm to brake drum. There is a picture I believe Gerald TVR put up showing the earlier and later trailing arms side by side.PAULS S said:
I tried for a couple of hours removing the propshaft like mep 12345 said, even disconnected the hand brake cable to give that little bit more room, mine would not go on the top of the axle, the more space was to the right by the brake lines, remember mine is a S1.
Paul,I don't think this area is any different on an S1-S3 but may be corrected by others. To make room over the top of the differential you have to undo both the front mounting bushes and let the diff fall under it's weight onto the chassis then the prop will go over the top. You make no mention of undoing these mounts but I realise you may have done but if you haven't the prop shaft won't go over the top of the dif no matter how much you try.
This is the former TVR dealership method so should work, it certainly did on mine and has on several others. It is still very tight but it should go if yours is standard (if there is a TVR standard) with a bot of wiggling and moving the prop flange around until it enters the gap enough to withdraw the front end from the gearbox.
Hope this helps
Mark
mep12345 said:
my site www.gbsportscar.com has some good tips on removing the propshaft as you have asked in the general forum. It will only take you 20 minutes + time to remove exhaust if you follow my route rather than the 6 hours it took Kev in the thread Andrew has pointed you at
Kev and I have had a few discussions on this one
Ah yes... I remember it so well... But it got my picture in Sprint Kev and I have had a few discussions on this one
K
orange_dodo said:
PAULS S said:
I understand what The prisoner means but why has my S1 got so many different bits, ie 2 rear brake hoses, maybe a S3 chassis and chrome trim on the bumpers, this is without starting on the inside.
I have an S1 chassis and I have 2 brake hoses at the rear. chassis to trailing arm, small section of copper pipe then trailing arm to brake drum. There is a picture I believe Gerald TVR put up showing the earlier and later trailing arms side by side.
S2 to the right S3 (adjustable) to the left
layout of rear brake pipe, S2
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