chassis paint

[kev bonnar]

planning to go down the body off route after the soft top season and was wondering if anyone had tried anything apart from hammerite to paint their chassis.done a test area on the rear suspention about three months ago and it looks like its starting to come off already,even after taking it back to the metal.sorry if this has been talked to death before but im fairly new to the s experience so any advise is most welcome!
cheers
kev

[jims2]

I sent for a kit from, www.rust.co.uk haven't
gotten it all done yet but the test area i did
at the rear of the chassis looks to be standing up to the elements ok.

[richb]

I used Hammerite Smoothrite on the suspension on my S3c and it stayed on well for the 2-3 years it was on. Daft question but did you scrape off all the old loose powder coating and crap before painting it on?

[andyvg]

Best solution is to strip it down to the bare bones and then get it sand blasted thoroughly followed by painting or re-powder coating and then a very generous coating of the thick waxoyl.

Certainly worth doing whilst the body is off



>> Edited by andyvg on Tuesday 25th June 17:28

[keithyboy]

Good preparation is the key - just like decorating!! Ive just completed a strip down and repaint of the entire front end of the V8S's chassis. Back to bare metal (angle grinder and dremel!!). I then primed the bare metal with Hammerite primer and top coated with Hammerite Smoothrite. No matter what it says on the tin - its always best to use a primer both as a future rust prohibitor and to ensure a good key for the top coat(s). I did the same to my S1 with no problems there either. Intererstingly, a guy who runs an industrial coatings operation and who did some sandblasting of various suspension components for me stressed the importance of good preparation in all these matters. He slated the way the wishbones and ARB had been prepared and coated by TVR. In short he felt the lack of prep contributed to their condition. Having seen the state of the chassis's on some of TVR's finest recent examples (around two years old) they clearly still havent improved things a whole lot - but then why should they; it guarantees them (& others) more work in the future!

[kev bonnar]

thanks for the advice guys.did rub it down to bare metal but never used an undercoat.it says on the tin just to put it on the metal but i suppose the thicker the protection the better.will give this a go when my car becomes a pile of bits in the winter!
cheers


>> Edited by kev bonnar on Wednesday 26th June 17:06

[Paceracing]

I have started restoring my S2, and the chassis will be stripped and sandblasted. I will be looking into the possibility of using lorry chassis paint. Give me some time to do the investigation and I will post the results of investigating the best protection.

Jas.

[kev bonnar]

jas, thats the kind of thing i was thinking about.stands to reason that the paint used to protect things like a lorry chassis or even boats should be pretty good stuff. ill be interested to hear about the results. even thought about trying to find out what kind of paint they are using on the forth bridge!!!
cheers

[andyvg]

quote:
ill be interested to hear about the results. even thought about trying to find out what kind of paint they are using on the forth bridge!!!

but using this paint does mean that when you finish it you will have to go back to the beginning and start again!

[Paceracing]

quote:
but using this paint does mean that when you finish it you will have to go back to the beginning and start again!

(Drum roll) Kerchinggggg!!!

[mickypee]

If its any help I am about to repaint my chassis.I have spent much time researching the subject, funnily enough you were pretty close to the mark when you mentioned bridge paint.

The chassis and all other related components will be shot blasted to remove corrosion and old paint. Then a two pack stoving primer is applied (black). This is then baked, then a two pack polyurathane primer and finish coat is applied and baked again. The final colour is satin black which could be clear laquered if your really fussy. When you get it back the surface is perfectly smooth and is totally resistant to stone chips, slipping screwdrivers etc. If you wanted to be even more fussy you could Zinc coat the metal before painting. IMHO is a bit overkill but is £200 if you fancy it.

Blasting is around £150
Paint is £70 per mixed litre.The whole job will probably use less than 2 litres.

Plus labour!!

I recon about £300 - £350 should do it.Money very well spent!! No messing with rusty old bit of metal.

Mike

[SimonSparrow]

Has anyone tried the POR-15 products? I've heard they're good, but never used them myself.

Also, how good is Waxoyl? Does it remain flexible after application?

[Paceracing]

Mickeypee,

Who does the stove enameling?

SimonSparrow,

Waxoyl is okay, but Shultz is miles better. Talk to car body shops, most have either used or heard of the stuuf.

Jas.

[M@H]

quote:
If its any help I am about to repaint my chassis.I have spent much time researching the subject, funnily enough you were pretty close to the mark when you mentioned bridge paint.

The chassis and all other related components will be shot blasted to remove corrosion and old paint. Then a two pack stoving primer is applied (black). This is then baked, then a two pack polyurathane primer and finish coat is applied and baked again. The final colour is satin black which could be clear laquered if your really fussy. When you get it back the surface is perfectly smooth and is totally resistant to stone chips, slipping screwdrivers etc. If you wanted to be even more fussy you could Zinc coat the metal before painting. IMHO is a bit overkill but is £200 if you fancy it.

Blasting is around £150
Paint is £70 per mixed litre.The whole job will probably use less than 2 litres.

Plus labour!!

I recon about £300 - £350 should do it.Money very well spent!! No messing with rusty old bit of metal.

Mike

I take it your car is in complete bits though to get the Chassis into a low bake oven... !! most of the rest of us will just be poking about with brushes on chassis still attached to the car

I'll bet if you bunged in the labour costs for stripping the car apart it would seem a bit more costly..

[kev bonnar]

cheers mike thats the kind of thing im looking for.not too expensive either.will do a bit of looking this weekend and see if anyone in tayside can do this for me! also jim had a look at the rust website,that looks likr=e good stuff too. im trying to avoid the forth bridge scenario,once ive had the chassis done hopefully i wont have to start again when im finished!

[mickypee]

You mentioned POR15. Its fantastic stuff! Its just about impervious to everything, just dont get it on your fingers coz it dont come off.Its worth buying some solvent to go with it as it tends to thicken once in contact with the air.Oh, one more thing DON'T use it from the tin and put the lid back on as it will be impossible to remove, best decant into a jar or similar and put a piece of cling film under the lid to seal it from the air.It has a shortish shelf life once opened,(a month or so) so its best to use it up quickly. I have just ordered a new tin to coat up my Jeep chassis, lasts for ever.

You can buy it from Frost Automotive 01706 658619, they will post you a tin. Its about £20 for 1/2L.Expensive but very good

Mike

[kev bonnar]

mike, is this por15 suitable for just painting on or do you have to do any special prep to the metal first?

[dangerous]

Check out their web site..

www.por15.com/index.html

[kev bonnar]

cheers,just had a look at the website,this stuff looks like the d.b's. very impressive!

>> Edited by kev bonnar on Monday 1st July 19:27

[maxd]

Has anybody tryed two pack epoxy mastic ? www.rust.co.uk