Rear Driveshaft CV Joints.
Discussion
Kitchski said:
I've got four new CV joints kicking around here I can use for mine. If only I could get the old bolts undone without snapping every T40 torx bit I have 
No joke, I think I'm going to have to cut them all off!
What about a bit of heat or some of this? No joke, I think I'm going to have to cut them all off!
Freeze Shock
glenrobbo said:
Ri'hard,
Try giving the Torx bolts a good whack on the end using a flat-faced punch & a 2 lb persuader, then try again.
And get some decent Torx bits
Sometimes a sideways whack of the screw head works as it disturbs the grip on the under-head surface. Used this technique on stubourn head bolts sucssessfully.Try giving the Torx bolts a good whack on the end using a flat-faced punch & a 2 lb persuader, then try again.
And get some decent Torx bits
Halfords professional range tools are good, and guaranteed for life!!!!
Rob.
Tried the whack and some 'persuasion', but in truth I only had a go on three of them last night. Three torx bits later shows my torx bits are s
te though. Have yet to try heat/opposite of heat. Already have the feeling they'll have to be cut off though!
Never have this problem with the allen bolts used on the Chims.....
te though. Have yet to try heat/opposite of heat. Already have the feeling they'll have to be cut off though!Never have this problem with the allen bolts used on the Chims.....
Kitchski said:
Tried the whack and some 'persuasion', but in truth I only had a go on three of them last night. Three torx bits later shows my torx bits are ste though. Have yet to try heat/opposite of heat. Already have the feeling they'll have to be cut off though!
Never have this problem with the allen bolts used on the Chims.....
There is a big difference in the quality of tools these days, particulaty in the material used for manufacture. First thing to do is buy a quality Torx bit. te though. Have yet to try heat/opposite of heat. Already have the feeling they'll have to be cut off though!Never have this problem with the allen bolts used on the Chims.....
Another tool I have found useful is an impact driver, the type hit the end of with a soft face hammer.
Rob.
Edited to add picture
Edited by Griffinr on Wednesday 19th March 15:30
Griffinr said:
There is a big difference in the quality of tools these days, particulaty in the material used for manufacture. First thing to do is buy a quality Torx bit.
Another tool I have found useful is an impact driver, the type hit the end of with a soft face hammer.
Rob.
Edited to add picture
We've got an impact driver, but I'll have to buy some torx bits for it.Another tool I have found useful is an impact driver, the type hit the end of with a soft face hammer.
Rob.
Edited to add picture
Edited by Griffinr on Wednesday 19th March 15:30
Kitchski said:
Drill & tap man will not be required, as I'm-fitting-an-LSD-and-throwing-the-old-open-one-away Man is here to save the day! 
Richard,If the old one is serviceable, don't throw it away, somebody may need one in the future, & Sierras are getting scarce these days.
Have you had the LSD overhauled with new special LSD oil packed & sealed into its' special chamber?
I may be talking total b
x here, just something I saw on here last week. Hmmmm, not sure about getting in to the inner joint with an angle grinder, I think I value the chassis and my fingers too much!
The bolts on my near side inner joint did come out . Using a TENG T40 TX STAR bit on a 1/4" drive bar with 10" of tube on the end! Says a lot for TENG but it did feel right on the limit so I now have a Draper Expert T40 TXSTAR 1/2" drive to get the rest out.
I totally agree with Glen's original posting. How on earth do they make these kits for the price? I found excessive play in 3 joints so I decided to buy a full set. So 4 joint kits with gaiters, clips, bolts, circlips all included. Including VAT; £108.00
When we last bought one from Ford for a Granada we believe we paid £60-70 plus vat!
Minor point but the new joints come with 12 point star socket head cap screws rather than the 6 point originals. A 6 point star bit will fit OK but I am slightly worried about getting them out again (hopefully not for a long time)so I may well use the original bolts and a touch of threadlock.
The bolts on my near side inner joint did come out . Using a TENG T40 TX STAR bit on a 1/4" drive bar with 10" of tube on the end! Says a lot for TENG but it did feel right on the limit so I now have a Draper Expert T40 TXSTAR 1/2" drive to get the rest out.
I totally agree with Glen's original posting. How on earth do they make these kits for the price? I found excessive play in 3 joints so I decided to buy a full set. So 4 joint kits with gaiters, clips, bolts, circlips all included. Including VAT; £108.00
When we last bought one from Ford for a Granada we believe we paid £60-70 plus vat!
Minor point but the new joints come with 12 point star socket head cap screws rather than the 6 point originals. A 6 point star bit will fit OK but I am slightly worried about getting them out again (hopefully not for a long time)so I may well use the original bolts and a touch of threadlock.
ChrisGadd said:
Richard, care to share where you bought these joint kits from and did they include the bolt spreader plates ?
Hi Chris, just ask for Steve Driver at Car and Commercial Components on 01254670121. Steve has been very helpful before in finding parts. I believe his supplier may post direct to you. Say you have been in contact with Richard Jarvis.Couple of bits of info to add.
The kits do not include the plates linking pairs of bolts.
The gaiter is now bonded to the bearing cover plate so only a clip round the small end of the gaiter is needed.
Although one for the large end is included it must not be used! There is no flange under the recess in the gaiter and you would just compress it.
The new 12 point star bolts are of the correct grade of high tensile steel, but unless you have the correct 12 point bit I would think seriously or reusing the old bolts (maybe with a touch of Loctite thread lock). Even with a brand new 6 point star bit I stripped the points out of 2 bolts. Who on earth invented a 12 point star for something needing significant torque!
I am not sure why, but the actual Lobro bearing has a slight recess on one side which is supposed to go on the face AWAY from the gaiter.
I agree with an earlier post, the circlips look a bit weedy to me so take the originals off with care, I also reused them.
At the price I decided to do both inner and outer joint while it was all off. Herewith gratuitous picture of driveshaft bling! (Soon to be painted over and hidden)
The kits do not include the plates linking pairs of bolts.
The gaiter is now bonded to the bearing cover plate so only a clip round the small end of the gaiter is needed.
Although one for the large end is included it must not be used! There is no flange under the recess in the gaiter and you would just compress it.
The new 12 point star bolts are of the correct grade of high tensile steel, but unless you have the correct 12 point bit I would think seriously or reusing the old bolts (maybe with a touch of Loctite thread lock). Even with a brand new 6 point star bit I stripped the points out of 2 bolts. Who on earth invented a 12 point star for something needing significant torque!
I am not sure why, but the actual Lobro bearing has a slight recess on one side which is supposed to go on the face AWAY from the gaiter.
I agree with an earlier post, the circlips look a bit weedy to me so take the originals off with care, I also reused them.
At the price I decided to do both inner and outer joint while it was all off. Herewith gratuitous picture of driveshaft bling! (Soon to be painted over and hidden)
greymrj said:
The new 12 point star bolts are of the correct grade of high tensile steel, but unless you have the correct 12 point bit I would think seriously or reusing the old bolts (maybe with a touch of Loctite thread lock). Even with a brand new 6 point star bit I stripped the points out of 2 bolts. Who on earth invented a 12 point star for something needing significant torque!
Would these work http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sierra-Cosworth-Rear-Dri...greymrj said:
Couple of bits of info to add.
The kits do not include the plates linking pairs of bolts.
- re-use, or purchase from a VW specialist. They help with the sealing of the boot can to the joint. Most modern VW's also use the hideous 12 point bolts, so the correct tool can be found in VW circles, some of dubious quality though.
The gaiter is now bonded to the bearing cover plate so only a clip round the small end of the gaiter is needed.
Although one for the large end is included it must not be used! There is no flange under the recess in the gaiter and you would just compress it.
- I wonder why two clamps are supplied? The boot is usually crimped to the can on current designs.
I am not sure why, but the actual Lobro bearing has a slight recess on one side which is supposed to go on the face AWAY from the gaiter.
- some vehicles use a cork gasket, so if it is a recess in the face that stops in the middle of the bolt holes, a gasket would typically be used.
Note: not all cross groove/VL joints are the same, despite being very similar in appearance. The crimped boot and face recess were developed for propshaft applications where the regular boot and sealing system couldn't handle the heat very well. The propshaft joints also have slightly higher clearances to allow for expansion due to exhaust and higher speed related RPM's.
ETA: I just had another look at the pics and realized I was talking nonsense about the crimped boot - that isn't used on plunging joints unless the amount of plunge is very small. However, I would double-check that the boot is bonded to the can. The GKN Lobro joint needs both boot clamps.The kits do not include the plates linking pairs of bolts.
- re-use, or purchase from a VW specialist. They help with the sealing of the boot can to the joint. Most modern VW's also use the hideous 12 point bolts, so the correct tool can be found in VW circles, some of dubious quality though.
The gaiter is now bonded to the bearing cover plate so only a clip round the small end of the gaiter is needed.
Although one for the large end is included it must not be used! There is no flange under the recess in the gaiter and you would just compress it.
- I wonder why two clamps are supplied? The boot is usually crimped to the can on current designs.
I am not sure why, but the actual Lobro bearing has a slight recess on one side which is supposed to go on the face AWAY from the gaiter.
- some vehicles use a cork gasket, so if it is a recess in the face that stops in the middle of the bolt holes, a gasket would typically be used.
Note: not all cross groove/VL joints are the same, despite being very similar in appearance. The crimped boot and face recess were developed for propshaft applications where the regular boot and sealing system couldn't handle the heat very well. The propshaft joints also have slightly higher clearances to allow for expansion due to exhaust and higher speed related RPM's.
Edited by Loach1 on Thursday 27th March 11:08
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