Terry's tale. (S3 resto ++)
Discussion
Blue 30 said:
My intention is to replace all rear filament lamps, with Led ones.
Thus reducing current flow, and the potential of any associated heat at the friction joints.
T.
Apart from water damage due to water leaking into the boot which needs checking and fixing if requiredThus reducing current flow, and the potential of any associated heat at the friction joints.
T.
The problem with the original Ford plugs is that the earth terminal overheats due to it intermittently carrying more current than the other terminals, the current it carries depends on what rear lights are being operated
The OP Blue 30 is fitting low current consumption LED bulbs and in doing so has unbeknown to him solved the Ford problem with the earth terminals
These plugs are the fix for this particular vehicle
Excuse me Pen...
It wasn't unbeknown that I am preventing any Neg supply current flow issues.
It IS being done as a preventative measure of such that I'm changing to Led lighting ! Its also as an engine load reduction, thus fuel saving too.
As far as soldering is always better... Just Google Merc SLK K40 relay circuit board problems.
Plus... OMG, my 12 week old modern car still has plug & socket connectors all over it. Better get my gas soldering iron out now....
It wasn't unbeknown that I am preventing any Neg supply current flow issues.
It IS being done as a preventative measure of such that I'm changing to Led lighting ! Its also as an engine load reduction, thus fuel saving too.
As far as soldering is always better... Just Google Merc SLK K40 relay circuit board problems.
Plus... OMG, my 12 week old modern car still has plug & socket connectors all over it. Better get my gas soldering iron out now....
Edited by Blue 30 on Wednesday 28th August 11:36
The wires are crimped in the terminals for two reasons. It is quicker to crimp than solder and it is more reliable. If there is any movement (even vibration) the soldered joint will fail as the end of the soldered section is very stiff and forms a stress point. This will fail with the wire breaking. get one of those crimp tools shown previously and carefully crimp any of the connections. I have had one of the small push on connectors fail on my car. I put these on years ago when the Ford plug failed. The connector itself broke between the bit that goes on the terminal and the bit where the wire is connected. This was under the heat shrink and was a pain to find as it would connect when wiggled.
Dave
Dave
Don't be tempted by those bargain packs of spade terminals you see advertised on eBay. They seem fine to start with but once crimped they are very weak at the point shown in the photo and snap all too easily.
Unfortunately you can't see the break because this part is invariably inside the insulation cover causing a really annoying intermittent fault. The first time this happened it took me ages to find the cause. I've now replaced all the dodgy spades.
So don't make my mistake, make your own
Unfortunately you can't see the break because this part is invariably inside the insulation cover causing a really annoying intermittent fault. The first time this happened it took me ages to find the cause. I've now replaced all the dodgy spades.
So don't make my mistake, make your own
Thanks guys for your hands on suggestions.
Nice to know that fellow owners have encountered the same.
On one of my occasions of attempting to be a contortionist under the dash.
I looked as best as I could at the wheel boxes, sent a spray of light light in their general direction hoping it penetrated through the many gaps. Plus pushing the spindle assembly down from the outside once the gunk had been removed, then liberally spraying oil again. The cable seems to push/pull okay, and the wheels rotate... at the moment. There are signs if previous water ingress (the kallistas did the same) !!
I will of course re seal from the outside when I'm ready to lock every thing down.
Like you guys, I will most likely wake up my Blue Peter skills to fabricate something suitable if required.
I too had thought about a touch of super glue on the splits.
If that fails it might be... Drill a hole in a suitable small bottle cap and insert a grommet.... Yes it does look like a small sized master cylinder dust cover.
But the garage door is about to close for our summer hols.
Back soon. T.
Nice to know that fellow owners have encountered the same.
On one of my occasions of attempting to be a contortionist under the dash.
I looked as best as I could at the wheel boxes, sent a spray of light light in their general direction hoping it penetrated through the many gaps. Plus pushing the spindle assembly down from the outside once the gunk had been removed, then liberally spraying oil again. The cable seems to push/pull okay, and the wheels rotate... at the moment. There are signs if previous water ingress (the kallistas did the same) !!
I will of course re seal from the outside when I'm ready to lock every thing down.
Like you guys, I will most likely wake up my Blue Peter skills to fabricate something suitable if required.
I too had thought about a touch of super glue on the splits.
If that fails it might be... Drill a hole in a suitable small bottle cap and insert a grommet.... Yes it does look like a small sized master cylinder dust cover.
But the garage door is about to close for our summer hols.
Back soon. T.
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