Terry's tale. (S3 resto ++)
Discussion
That was fun... Not.
Block & journals washed out, again.
New mains in.
New big ends in.
All pre lubed of course.
All torqued up, plus stretch to yield settings.
Carried out a taught trick to pre oil the journals. Done with a big suction/pump syringe full of oil, attached to the return on the remote oil filter take-off. It took over 1ltr before it started raining oil from too many places too mention ... on me of course !
Over the weekend, the sump and sundries go back on, then I'm back to square one.
At least with the basic dyno settings already done, I should be able to start it and do some oil temp/pressure/flow testing.
T.
Block & journals washed out, again.
New mains in.
New big ends in.
All pre lubed of course.
All torqued up, plus stretch to yield settings.
Carried out a taught trick to pre oil the journals. Done with a big suction/pump syringe full of oil, attached to the return on the remote oil filter take-off. It took over 1ltr before it started raining oil from too many places too mention ... on me of course !
Over the weekend, the sump and sundries go back on, then I'm back to square one.
At least with the basic dyno settings already done, I should be able to start it and do some oil temp/pressure/flow testing.
T.
So far so good...
I've modified the oil pick-up pipe so that it's around 30mm off the sump floor.
I've opened up (drilled out) some of the remote filter adaptor unions, and smoothed out any sharp corners on holes. As that should help with oil flow around the remote filter 'loop'.
Anyway, the sumps back on, I primed the oil galleries by using an oil suction/push pump. Added oil to the full mark, and wound the engine over. On cold cranking, the gauge is reading just over 70psi with no horrible noises... Which is a good thing.
I'm not starting it up just yet, as I want to re commence/conclude some of the sundry tidy up jobs in the engine bay.
Photos show...
Chopped out section on the oil pick-up pipe.
Pick-up pipe head inside the sump.
Re drilled union.
[url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/kZ377PQR[/url][url]
|https://thumbsnap.com/GhSky8Sy[/url]
T.
I've modified the oil pick-up pipe so that it's around 30mm off the sump floor.
I've opened up (drilled out) some of the remote filter adaptor unions, and smoothed out any sharp corners on holes. As that should help with oil flow around the remote filter 'loop'.
Anyway, the sumps back on, I primed the oil galleries by using an oil suction/push pump. Added oil to the full mark, and wound the engine over. On cold cranking, the gauge is reading just over 70psi with no horrible noises... Which is a good thing.
I'm not starting it up just yet, as I want to re commence/conclude some of the sundry tidy up jobs in the engine bay.
Photos show...
Chopped out section on the oil pick-up pipe.
Pick-up pipe head inside the sump.
Re drilled union.
[url]|https://thumbsnap.com/kZ377PQR[/url][url]|https://thumbsnap.com/GhSky8Sy[/url]T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 23 February 14:19
Catch up (yet again)...
So in Feb, it was time to turn the key on my (bottom end) rebuild, with all of those mods listed above.
Well, it ran, it revved, it sounds okay.
But airing on the cautious, after say x3 2min runs on my drive (IE. Not under load). I put it back in the garage to do a quick oil change.
Oh no !!!!!
The oil has gone all metallic again...
So off with the sump, and off with a couple of bigend shells. They've gone again.
Now I'm pi**ed off.
And seriously considering selling the project on "as is". But once I had picked myself up, dusted myself down. It wasn't going to beat me, it's only a lump of metal after all.
I decided not to throw any more money or time on that engine (Jag parts are way too expensive).
By around Easter I had obtained a low mileage (68k) 2004 engine, and importantly, from a running car with MOT history to prove the mileage.
So now it's just a one for one swap...... Ha, as if !!!
My phase one fabricating of parts (engine, ancillary brackets etc) did their respective jobs, but I knew I could do better, especially in terms of future maintenance access etc.
So since Easter, I have been re designing, & fabricating... Again !
Coming fully up to date, the 'new' engine is in, and nearly fully connected up to all of the life support elements.
To eliminate the 'what had I done' to cause the engine failure, I have temporarily dumped the remote oil filter arrangements. Replaced by an undersized block mounted oil filter (just for initial start-up).
And now fitted a standard X-type sump & pickup pipe. So do I turn the key ?
Errrr.... Not just yet, as my next task is to recover the duff engine from my shed,and to fully strip it down, in a real attempt to locate the cause of the failure.
Was it me that caused it, or had I bought a bad engine ?
If it was me, it has to be the remote oil filter layout (now deleted).
If it was a bad engine, the following are my current thoughts...
It was a 2005 12k miles engine. But how long had it been standing ? I don't know, as I bought it on a pallet.
It was an accident damaged car. Had the engine suffered internal damage ? I don't know, but nothing externally visible.
Why was it only the big ends that had failed, not the mains ?
They are fed via the crank, is there a blockage ?
Hopefully, all will be be revealed soon.....
And then I will start my 'new' engine. And get it back on the Dyno.
T.
So in Feb, it was time to turn the key on my (bottom end) rebuild, with all of those mods listed above.
Well, it ran, it revved, it sounds okay.
But airing on the cautious, after say x3 2min runs on my drive (IE. Not under load). I put it back in the garage to do a quick oil change.
Oh no !!!!!
The oil has gone all metallic again...
So off with the sump, and off with a couple of bigend shells. They've gone again.
Now I'm pi**ed off.
And seriously considering selling the project on "as is". But once I had picked myself up, dusted myself down. It wasn't going to beat me, it's only a lump of metal after all.
I decided not to throw any more money or time on that engine (Jag parts are way too expensive).
By around Easter I had obtained a low mileage (68k) 2004 engine, and importantly, from a running car with MOT history to prove the mileage.
So now it's just a one for one swap...... Ha, as if !!!
My phase one fabricating of parts (engine, ancillary brackets etc) did their respective jobs, but I knew I could do better, especially in terms of future maintenance access etc.
So since Easter, I have been re designing, & fabricating... Again !
Coming fully up to date, the 'new' engine is in, and nearly fully connected up to all of the life support elements.
To eliminate the 'what had I done' to cause the engine failure, I have temporarily dumped the remote oil filter arrangements. Replaced by an undersized block mounted oil filter (just for initial start-up).
And now fitted a standard X-type sump & pickup pipe. So do I turn the key ?
Errrr.... Not just yet, as my next task is to recover the duff engine from my shed,and to fully strip it down, in a real attempt to locate the cause of the failure.
Was it me that caused it, or had I bought a bad engine ?
If it was me, it has to be the remote oil filter layout (now deleted).
If it was a bad engine, the following are my current thoughts...
It was a 2005 12k miles engine. But how long had it been standing ? I don't know, as I bought it on a pallet.
It was an accident damaged car. Had the engine suffered internal damage ? I don't know, but nothing externally visible.
Why was it only the big ends that had failed, not the mains ?
They are fed via the crank, is there a blockage ?
Hopefully, all will be be revealed soon.....
And then I will start my 'new' engine. And get it back on the Dyno.
T.
Thanks guys...
Well, I have partially stripped down my first (duff) engine. This is what I have found so far.
In terms of oil flow path, it goes.... Sump to pump (suction) to filter (at pump pressure) back to engine, past both of the oil sensors, to one of the cam chain tensioners. It's also teed off to the main bearings, which in turn feed the big ends via drillings in the crank (each main to a bigend).
I have rodded out each gallery.... No blockages found, no debris found.... Anywhere !
When that engine ran, it extinguished the warning light, it had 70+psi reading on the gauge. That's with the oil pressure gauge sensor at the remote filter head (oil input side).
Of course, you can have pressure without flow !
So next I will strip down the engine oil pump.
But I did previously check each remote oil pipe for blockages, and none found. And they were full of oil, as were the cooler & filter.
So it still isn't clear what happened.
One thing I did notice, is that the main bearings were marked up (damaged). I guess the reason the bigends were much worse, is that they encounter both rotary & up/down impact, whereas the mains only encounter rotary friction.
Which makes sense.
Well, I have partially stripped down my first (duff) engine. This is what I have found so far.
In terms of oil flow path, it goes.... Sump to pump (suction) to filter (at pump pressure) back to engine, past both of the oil sensors, to one of the cam chain tensioners. It's also teed off to the main bearings, which in turn feed the big ends via drillings in the crank (each main to a bigend).
I have rodded out each gallery.... No blockages found, no debris found.... Anywhere !
When that engine ran, it extinguished the warning light, it had 70+psi reading on the gauge. That's with the oil pressure gauge sensor at the remote filter head (oil input side).
Of course, you can have pressure without flow !
So next I will strip down the engine oil pump.
But I did previously check each remote oil pipe for blockages, and none found. And they were full of oil, as were the cooler & filter.
So it still isn't clear what happened.
One thing I did notice, is that the main bearings were marked up (damaged). I guess the reason the bigends were much worse, is that they encounter both rotary & up/down impact, whereas the mains only encounter rotary friction.
Which makes sense.
Hopefully, I did mention previously that the Jag/Ford AJ30 V6 engine parts are just too expensive to justify an engine rebuild. Especially when low mileage cared for examples are available. So that's what I did. My No2 engine is a 68k miles unit, where I saw the car running before it was removed for me.
And as far as the cause....
Well, I totally stripped engine No1, not to find any cause.
However, I did find that my fabricated takeoff adaptor threaded tube was quite long into the engine block, and was most likely causing restricted oil flow to the main oil gallery... Not a good thing.
It's now a bit shorter...
Hands up... My fault.... Maybe !
T.
And as far as the cause....
Well, I totally stripped engine No1, not to find any cause.
However, I did find that my fabricated takeoff adaptor threaded tube was quite long into the engine block, and was most likely causing restricted oil flow to the main oil gallery... Not a good thing.
It's now a bit shorter...
Hands up... My fault.... Maybe !
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 4th June 23:00
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 4th June 23:01
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 4th June 23:04
So is today a good day ?
Coolant water added... tick
Drive belt tensioned... tick
Fuel line connected... tick
Remote oil filter & lines now in situ....tick
All I have to now is turn the key. But first I disconnect the ECU.
It takes a while cranking it, for the oil light & oil pressure to build.... I was getting concerned !
But they did respond with 55+psi, even on cranking. That's with the pressure gauge sensor on the block.
Next I drained off a litre of oil into a large flat Ssteel food tray for inspection.
It's still new & clear.
Topped the oil back up. But I had better check the remote oil filter lines... Bugger, x3 out of 4 are moist at best.
I am now hating those AN alloy connectors. So the remote filter arrangement gets dumped and a small filter gets screwed directly onto the block. Crank it over again. The pressure comes back pretty quick.
So connect the ECU and turn the key.......
Vrrrrrm, vrrrrrm, vrrrrrm on the throttle about x10 times.. Turn it off, go back underneath, repeat draining some oil off.
Phew ! It's still golden & perfectly clear. Top it up.
That'll do for today.
Other than buying a 5/8" Mocal remote filter kit, plus a 22mm to 20mm takeoff adaptor.
Those Chinese parts will NOT be used again on my car.
So once the new parts have arrived & have been fitted, it'll be time to re book it back in with Jools.
Oh, the actual 'new' engine sounds pretty good.
T.
Coolant water added... tick
Drive belt tensioned... tick
Fuel line connected... tick
Remote oil filter & lines now in situ....tick
All I have to now is turn the key. But first I disconnect the ECU.
It takes a while cranking it, for the oil light & oil pressure to build.... I was getting concerned !
But they did respond with 55+psi, even on cranking. That's with the pressure gauge sensor on the block.
Next I drained off a litre of oil into a large flat Ssteel food tray for inspection.
It's still new & clear.
Topped the oil back up. But I had better check the remote oil filter lines... Bugger, x3 out of 4 are moist at best.
I am now hating those AN alloy connectors. So the remote filter arrangement gets dumped and a small filter gets screwed directly onto the block. Crank it over again. The pressure comes back pretty quick.
So connect the ECU and turn the key.......
Vrrrrrm, vrrrrrm, vrrrrrm on the throttle about x10 times.. Turn it off, go back underneath, repeat draining some oil off.
Phew ! It's still golden & perfectly clear. Top it up.
That'll do for today.
Other than buying a 5/8" Mocal remote filter kit, plus a 22mm to 20mm takeoff adaptor.
Those Chinese parts will NOT be used again on my car.
So once the new parts have arrived & have been fitted, it'll be time to re book it back in with Jools.
Oh, the actual 'new' engine sounds pretty good.
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Friday 4th June 23:02
Off to the Dyno I go...
But why is it after you've checked, checked & in my case quadruple checked everything....
You get a water hose union spring a leak ! And of course that had to be 1/2 way through the rolling road Dyno tuning session.
Well, I guess nothing has been easy for me on this resto, so maybe I should have expected it.
I'll just have to teach it some better toilet habits, to stop it taking a leak in public.
Anyway, in short, it didn't stop the session, which was successful...
The car is now back at home. I'll give it a deserved rest for a few days... Me too !
I will then crack on.
Jools says it could have gone a bit higher (in bhp terms) with a few tweeks on the air intake design. But what was achieved is plenty enough for me.
But why is it after you've checked, checked & in my case quadruple checked everything....
You get a water hose union spring a leak ! And of course that had to be 1/2 way through the rolling road Dyno tuning session.
Well, I guess nothing has been easy for me on this resto, so maybe I should have expected it.
I'll just have to teach it some better toilet habits, to stop it taking a leak in public.
Anyway, in short, it didn't stop the session, which was successful...
The car is now back at home. I'll give it a deserved rest for a few days... Me too !
I will then crack on.
Jools says it could have gone a bit higher (in bhp terms) with a few tweeks on the air intake design. But what was achieved is plenty enough for me.
Edited by Blue 30 on Sunday 4th July 10:57
With the engine issue finally resolved July was dedicated in looking for any minor remedial work, and/or to enstate any engine bay final fixtures and fittings. Oh, plus the bonnet refit including the wiring of course.
Now what to do ?
Round & round I go, but it IS really time to get it MOT'd. My usual trusted MOT guy is too far away for an untaxed un MOT'd car to be driven to, so I resolved myself to use the closest to home, but not before having a comfort value word with them.
The 1/4 mile journey from home to garage and back was genuinely the first time I had driven my S in over 5yrs !
Obviously I stayed with the car, and after under an hour, it got it's valid MOT, no advisories either.
Back home we go, and straight back into my garage.
It's insured and now MOT'd, but not taxed just yet, as still want to get such as interior bits & bobs in place.
One nuisance issue that I have identified, are the door glass window runner rubbers. They have gone rock hard and with renewed use, they have started to break up. New ones are now on their way to me from Woolies (thanks Mike P for the info).
I've waited this long to be out there, so another few weeks of work won't bother me..... Too much !
T.
Now what to do ?
Round & round I go, but it IS really time to get it MOT'd. My usual trusted MOT guy is too far away for an untaxed un MOT'd car to be driven to, so I resolved myself to use the closest to home, but not before having a comfort value word with them.
The 1/4 mile journey from home to garage and back was genuinely the first time I had driven my S in over 5yrs !
Obviously I stayed with the car, and after under an hour, it got it's valid MOT, no advisories either.
Back home we go, and straight back into my garage.
It's insured and now MOT'd, but not taxed just yet, as still want to get such as interior bits & bobs in place.
One nuisance issue that I have identified, are the door glass window runner rubbers. They have gone rock hard and with renewed use, they have started to break up. New ones are now on their way to me from Woolies (thanks Mike P for the info).
I've waited this long to be out there, so another few weeks of work won't bother me..... Too much !
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 10th August 22:12
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 10th August 22:13
Edited by Blue 30 on Tuesday 10th August 22:15
Hi Bob..
That is where I bought my wheels from too.
My S3 has Ford 4-stud and pattern (as per Sierra).
I thought that was standard for the S.
So no adaptors required on my car.
From memory the offset is only 3mm different from the original wheels, further out, which is a good thing.
(Note... They don't have any certification for racing etc. Which I think some Euro countries require too, if coming away from standard).
Oh, WB will do wheel/tyre packages too.
But you will have to call them to see what available and cost. I had Proxies.
I ran real wires for some years on another classic. They don't like speed, they're constantly moving so require regular balancing. Which you need someone with the adaptors and skills. Some are not safety rims, so the tyres could flip off the rim. Some also need tubes. Bloomin heavy option, and a bugger to keep clean.
I'm not going back to them, other than as for show wheels !
T.
That is where I bought my wheels from too.
My S3 has Ford 4-stud and pattern (as per Sierra).
I thought that was standard for the S.
So no adaptors required on my car.
From memory the offset is only 3mm different from the original wheels, further out, which is a good thing.
(Note... They don't have any certification for racing etc. Which I think some Euro countries require too, if coming away from standard).
Oh, WB will do wheel/tyre packages too.
But you will have to call them to see what available and cost. I had Proxies.
I ran real wires for some years on another classic. They don't like speed, they're constantly moving so require regular balancing. Which you need someone with the adaptors and skills. Some are not safety rims, so the tyres could flip off the rim. Some also need tubes. Bloomin heavy option, and a bugger to keep clean.
I'm not going back to them, other than as for show wheels !
T.
Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 12th August 11:49
Edited by Blue 30 on Thursday 12th August 11:51
To Bob, and anyone...
Re - Japan wheel 7x15 JR9 cross spoke alloy wheels suitable for the S. (See my photo of my S3 with them fitted, on an earlier post in this thread).
Received from Wheelbase Alloys... 24/08/21
I have set up a referral voucher code for yourself and the people that you know. You will all be able to benefit with £25.00 off all future orders at Wheelbase.
The referral voucher code is: REF25
This voucher code that be used online, in store and over the phone on 0800 130 3400 or 0333 800 8000.
Re - Japan wheel 7x15 JR9 cross spoke alloy wheels suitable for the S. (See my photo of my S3 with them fitted, on an earlier post in this thread).
Received from Wheelbase Alloys... 24/08/21
I have set up a referral voucher code for yourself and the people that you know. You will all be able to benefit with £25.00 off all future orders at Wheelbase.
The referral voucher code is: REF25
This voucher code that be used online, in store and over the phone on 0800 130 3400 or 0333 800 8000.
Is it finished and on the road yet ? I hear you ask. Let's just say....
We're going to, and showing the S at Cars in the Park, Lichfield Staffs on Sunday (12/9), that's unless the weather forecasts strongly state it's going to rain, which they don't at the moment. We will be going as an individual entry. It is £5 per car, no booking required. Individual parking is done at random on arrival.
T.
We're going to, and showing the S at Cars in the Park, Lichfield Staffs on Sunday (12/9), that's unless the weather forecasts strongly state it's going to rain, which they don't at the moment. We will be going as an individual entry. It is £5 per car, no booking required. Individual parking is done at random on arrival.
T.
Update on my resto, as a car !
Happy... Yes.
Lots of use... Not so much, no real reason why.
We have done a couple of local run outs around Cannock chase, plus we attended one local Lichfield car show where it gained respectable interest.
No photos taken....drrr.
Speedo not yet working (awaiting the signal adaptor) hence partly why no long runs yet.
Only one negative to report... With an empty boot and nothing in the targa box (a.r.s.e mod) the cockpit does boom on bumpy roads. I'll hopefully fix that over the winter with new firm insulation/sound proofing.
Very happy with the engine & g-box drivability, clutch is quite heavy, stick shift is firm & positive.
No mpg stats to report yet.
One thing I am very happy with, is the Pas steering. Yes, it is lighter than the original, but still has some feel, but no motorway speeds done as yet. Great for manoeuvring reversing into my garage (90o to my drive).
I have set all of the steering geometry, and suspension settings from scratch. Maybe a bit firm, but I spoke to a local specialist at the show, who seems to be TVR experienced. I'll go there in the spring to get it fine setup.
I have added a boot lid mounted brake light, as most following cars seem to forget they have to brake too, rather than just admire your steed.
Not much fuel onboard currently, so it'll stay in the garage for now, but hopefully a few more outings in October. Once that is out, I will sorn it again until March/April.
Happy... Yes.
Lots of use... Not so much, no real reason why.
We have done a couple of local run outs around Cannock chase, plus we attended one local Lichfield car show where it gained respectable interest.
No photos taken....drrr.
Speedo not yet working (awaiting the signal adaptor) hence partly why no long runs yet.
Only one negative to report... With an empty boot and nothing in the targa box (a.r.s.e mod) the cockpit does boom on bumpy roads. I'll hopefully fix that over the winter with new firm insulation/sound proofing.
Very happy with the engine & g-box drivability, clutch is quite heavy, stick shift is firm & positive.
No mpg stats to report yet.
One thing I am very happy with, is the Pas steering. Yes, it is lighter than the original, but still has some feel, but no motorway speeds done as yet. Great for manoeuvring reversing into my garage (90o to my drive).
I have set all of the steering geometry, and suspension settings from scratch. Maybe a bit firm, but I spoke to a local specialist at the show, who seems to be TVR experienced. I'll go there in the spring to get it fine setup.
I have added a boot lid mounted brake light, as most following cars seem to forget they have to brake too, rather than just admire your steed.
Not much fuel onboard currently, so it'll stay in the garage for now, but hopefully a few more outings in October. Once that is out, I will sorn it again until March/April.
And now you've read my tale, the car is up for sale.
That's currently on Facebook marketplace, and the TVR sales groups.
Why?
Well we have now decided to sell up in the UK, and emigrate to Spain.
My tools are coming with us, and my demand in the property search definitely includes having a decent garage, or land to build one.
So my car tinkering will continue.....
T.
That's currently on Facebook marketplace, and the TVR sales groups.
Why?
Well we have now decided to sell up in the UK, and emigrate to Spain.
My tools are coming with us, and my demand in the property search definitely includes having a decent garage, or land to build one.
So my car tinkering will continue.....
T.
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